Holster fit

[Make do]

I am having a problem with my 1862 navies (5 1/2 barrel).  The revolvers tend to hang up on the wedge when returning them back to the holster - any solutions, techniques or styles that work better with cap and ball revolvers having a wedge? Currently I am using El paso saddlery holsters.  I tend to like the slim Jim style of holsters. Thanks

[Trailrider #896]

You need to wetfit the holster to the gun.  Run the holster under tepid water until it is thoroughly wet inside and out. (About a minute or so is all you need.)  Wrap the gun in a plastic baggie and insert in the holster.  Leave it there for six hours or so, moulding the leather.  You might need to use a wooden dowel (local hardware store) to form out around the wedge.  Made a channel from where the front of the wedge lies with the gun  in the holster up toward the top of the holster body.  Might want to insert and withdraw gun a few times.  After the leather appears to be drying, remove the gun and allow to dry until the leather feels completely dry, then unwrap the gun and stick it back in the holster and work it around a little bit until the gun comes out as easily as you desire.  Allow the holster to dry for a few days (depends on the climate your are in), and give it a LIGHT application of Lexol(r) Leather Conditioner or Care4.  Don't overdo it.  Apply with a clean rag or spray it on, then wipe it off quickly.  That should take care of the problem.

Stay well and safe, Pard!

[Zach Taylor,SASS#14359]

Before you wet fit the gun to the holster, tape a wooden dowel to the frame behind the wedge, this will help form a channel for the wedge to ride in.

[Grass Range]

Use a product called Shoe Stretch as it will not stain your leather. Do not use water.

[TN Mongo, SASS #61450]

As a leather maker, I would say +1 to Trailrider's advise.  If you want to be sure, click on the link below and go to their contact information and get their recommendation.  I always appreciate my customers talking to me first before they do something major to something I made them. 

 

 

https://epsaddlery.com

 

[Mister Badly]

As the problem is hanging on the way in I would suggest belling the opening of the holster.

[Springfield Slim SASS #24733]

I mostly agree with Trailrider, except for the leave it in the wet holster for 6 hours. If you do this make very sure the gun is very well oiled as moisture can seep through the plastic bag and rust the gun. I mostly use plastic or aluminum copies to wet mould but I do use real guns also. I have also found that the USPS Tyvek shipping bags hold up much better, as many times the plastic bags will tear on the ends if the holster is very tight. You could also  wet mould the barrel section with something larger than the barrel, like a broomstick, so that the barrel section is looser so the wedge doesn't drag. As long as the cylinder section is tight the gun will fit the holster properly.

  I prefer to use water to wet mould, I used a shoe stretcher solution once, and found it was mostly alcohol, and felt it might dry the leather too much. It was my wife's shoes, not a holster, but I never used it again.

[Trailrider #896]

 

"It was my wife's shoes, not a holster, but I never used it again."

I bet! 

For those who use wooden dowels often enough in forming holsters, etc., I'd recommend buying 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" x 2 ft or so at you local hardware store.  Round one end with a rasp and or sandpaper.  When running water on the leather, smooth out drops so they don't watermark the leather.  I've never had a problem using heavy-duty plastic bags leaking if wrapped snugly around the gun.  Do it all the time for holsters made for customers.  Lexol Leather Conditioner is usually available from Tandy/Leather Factory or directly.  Not sure who has Care4, but I think it is the same stuff.  I use Lexol LIGHTLY after the leather dries thoroughly.  Also use it about once a year unless the leather gets wet in the rain or snow, in which case, let the leather dry at ROOM TEMPERATURE.  Do NOT place near a heater or hot air duct. That will dry it out too much.  BTW, Lexol will help with old leather, if it is not so dry it is cracking.  Picard's various leather conditioners are also good, but, frankly if leather is so dried out that it is cracking, there isn't much you can do to save it.  (Others may disagree, but that has been my experience with antique holsters, belts, and acoutrements  over the last fifty+ years.)

Stay well and safe, Pards!

 

[Choctaw Jack]

When fitting holsters or knife sheaths, if I dont have Shoe Stretch or something similar,I sometimes use rubbing alchohol. I use it sparingly 'cause it can dry the leather if you use too much.

Of course YMMV

Choctaw

[Texas Joker]

When I make a holster or wet form leather I put em in a bucket of water. Soak for 15 minutes or so. 

 

Double bag the gun. If I want A Very tight fit use use a sand form technique similar to sand casting.  3 gallon bucket half full of wet sand place a grocery bag around wet leather holstered gun and pack wet sand around. Forms the wet leather to exactly the shape of the gun.

 

Another thing I do for six guns is after the leather takes the guns shape and is getting dry but still pliable is pull and pit the gun, then stuff a waffle ball in the mouth of the holster to bell it.

 

I dry em on my dehumidifier