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Marlin 1894c Binding after Tuning


Mountain Man Gramps

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I just did a major tune-up on my Marlin 1894C.  Here's what I did:

1.   Replaced the OEM trigger with Sure Hit's Phantom trigger,

2.  Installed Long Hunt's Competition spring kit (new lever lock, trigger,  and hammer springs),

3.  Long Hunt's stainless steel mag spring

4.  Long Hunt's aluminum mag follower,

5. Ranger Point Precision's one piece firing pin, and,

6.  Ranger Point Precision's  extractor.

 

While I was at it, I thoroughly cleaned and lubed every part and smoothed out any rough spots on the internal parts.  My Marlin now feels like a new gun with zero trigger flop, ultra smooth lever operation, and one finger level operation.  However the action binds if I try to lever the gun with the hammer not cocked.  If the hammer is cocked, or if I push in the lever lock button while racking the rifle with the hammer not cocked, there is no binding and everything feels great.  I know you can't reverse the Trigger Guard Plate and Trigger Guard Plate Support screws (items 61 and 62 on Marlin's assembly drawing, and I've done my best to make sure I haven't over-tightened any thing, but I can't figure this one out.

 

I suspect the problem has to do with the Phantom trigger and I know Slick McClade has an excellent reputation for supporting his products, buts it's the weekend and I'm impatient and at work during regular business hours.  Does anyone have any ideas?

 

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Send it back to the smith with a letter telling him that you are not happy with his work and that he is not getting one single cent until the gun is completely repaired.:P

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I have the Phantom trigger in all my newer Marlins.  All are working properly.  

 

There may be some interference with the lever interlock. There is some design variation that may require some additional adjustments.  Maybe study the where the trigger pushes down the lever interlock. 

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Mtn Man,

if I read your situation correctly, it sounds like your trigger might be sitting 'to tight' in its position

and is not pivoting at all to help allow the hammer to rotate against it.

 

1.  Before doing anything, visually look at the rifle and make sure the bottom of the trigger

is not rubbing on the trigger guard.

 

2.  Take 2 aspirin and call me at:   865 / 696-1996.     :D

 

EDIT:  another thought is that your trigger return spring is not sitting in it correct position

against the trigger.   Not sure this is the cause, but it don't hurt to check it out.

 

..........Widder

 

 

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Widder,

 

The trigger clears the guard but I found something else.  I took the trigger plate out and pushed the hammer through the travel it goes through when the rifle is levered.  I took a video and think I know the problem.  But before I implement the correction which requires some filing, I wanted to check with a more experience gunsmith than me.  I tried to attach attached the video to this topic, but it's too big.  If you'd like to take a look at it, message me with your email address and I'll send a link to the video.   I'm going to send it to Slick McClade and see what he thinks.  It looks like the trigger is running into the front edge of the trigger safety block.  That freezes the gun preventing the hammer from going back enough for the bolt to pass over it.  At that point the trigger safety block is still down.  If I push it up then the action unfreezes and the hammer can continue back allowing the bolt to pass over it.  I'm thinking some filing of the safety block is needed but this amateur gunsmith would like a more knowledgable opinion before I start filing.  What do you think?

 

MMG

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Lumpy,

Yes they are.  Thanks for asking.

 

Warren,

If you're referring to the "trigger safety block", I think you've identified the problem.

 

Everyone,

Here's a link to OneDrive that should let you download the video.  It's a 71 MByte MP4 file.  What I refer to as the "trigger lock" is properly called the "Trigger safety block".

   https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArV-Sms1C6ePg85bfvw9-hysz-lOVw?e=i9MaVH

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MTN MAN,

Your explanation does sound reasonable.   In a nut shell, that safety block can prevent movement in the trigger,

which is something I was thinking about.

 

Anyhow, here is my email and I will be glad to look it over.   Thanks.

widder1894@icloud.com

 

..........WIdder

 

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Mtn Man,

that is a good video.   Thanks.    YES, I think you found your issue. 

 

If it were mine, I would remove a few .000's of metal off the back of the trigger that is bumping that

lever safety.

If you want to TEST your rifle to insure that is the problem, all you have to do is remove the trigger/lever safety

and then cycle the rifle without that safety in the rifle.

 

If it is indeed the problem, you can file or polish some metal off the back of the trigger OR the

front edge of the safety.   Your option.   But removing metal from the safety bar might cause it to be

ineffective if you change triggers again.

 

OR, if you are like many of us, you can just shoot the rifle without that lever safety.

Just don't pull the trigger while cycling or else the hammer will disconnet from the sear and start to drop.......but it

will dislodge in the cutout under the bolt and lock up the action.   

You will then need to manually recock the hammer and then proceed to close the action.

 

Sounds like you've done a very good job on your action and you probably already know all this stuff.

 

Best regards

 

..........Widder

 

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While you are inside your action, you should replace the pin on the rear of the lifter for one that uses an E clip. (Just one less part to give you a problem later in life) The pressed on clip has a tendency to fall off and jam the gun.

 

 

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47 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

OP, I would be in contact with the trigger's maker also.

Can you put your video on YouTube? 

OLG 

 

The manufacturer has made a few small changes along the way. It's made to fit a wide range of Marlin lever guns.  But due to slight build variations over the many years and from gun to gun,  occasionally one needs some fitting.  

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2 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

The manufacturer has made a few small changes along the way. It's made to fit a wide range of Marlin lever guns.  But due to slight build variations over the many years and from gun to gun,  occasionally one needs some fitting.  

Consistency was never in Marlin's production plans.

:lol:

Just look how the extractor hole in the '94 bolt got moved around. :wacko:

OLG 

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24 minutes ago, Mountain Man Gramps said:

As requested, here is the link to the video on YouTube... my first YouTube video!

 

https://youtu.be/XlbP6vW_fBs

 

 

18 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

I have the Phantom trigger in all my newer Marlins.  All are working properly.  

 

There may be some interference with the lever interlock. There is some design variation that may require some additional adjustments.  Maybe study the where the trigger pushes down the lever interlock. 

 

 

Yeap, that's what I said. 

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You got it!  I had a hunch this was the fastest way to a solution.  The cowboy community never lets me down.  Now I'll be ready for next weekend...  but now I can't blame it on my gun!

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I took a little bit off the front of the trigger safety block and that did the trick.  My first speed job, man what a difference!  Thanks Double D (Darrell Brinkmeier, master of leather and gusmithing) for the list of changes.

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