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Help, Pards! Cant get this screw started!


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I took the buttstock off my Browning mdl 92 to refinish it and now i cannot for the life of me get the rear tang screw to start, seems like it's just not lining up properly. It screws right in with the stock off the threads are not boogered at all, is there a trick to getting the lower and upper tang to line up properly? Counting on the years of wisdom and knowledge out there.

Take care Pards!

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Take the stock off and try the screw from the “wrong” side (the bottom).  That should clean up any minor damage to the threads on the “right” side.  Then try the screw with the stock off.

 

Then when you put the stock back on, tap it firmly to make sure it’s fully seated.

 

If that fails, run an appropriately sized drill through the hole to clean it up.

Edited by Cypress Sam, SASS #10915
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Thanks, I stripped the finish off and "burnished" it with a torch before refinishing. I also did the metal finishing, or unfinishing I should say. 

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Edited by T.K.
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Use your Mark 1 eyeball tool to see which side the wood is putting pressure on the screw.   Then with stock off the gun, run a slightly smaller drill bit through the wood, putting pressure on the tight side to remove a little wood.  When you can see "full diameter daylight" by looking through the hole with butt stock firmly between the tangs, you should be ready to install the screw.

 

Good luck, GJ

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2 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

Use your Mark 1 eyeball tool to see which side the wood is putting pressure on the screw.   Then with stock off the gun, run a slightly smaller drill bit through the wood, putting pressure on the tight side to remove a little wood.  When you can see "full diameter daylight" by looking through the hole with butt stock firmly between the tangs, you should be ready to install the screw.

 

Good luck, GJ

 

Depending on what you used to refinish the wood, it may have caused the grain to swell. thus changing the diameter of the screw hole.  Doing what GJ says should relieve the pressure on the side of the stock screw hole allowing the screw to fit.  Just don't get carried away with removing the wood.

Edited by Frontier Lone Rider
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And I assume you know the trick that you start a screw by gently going backwards until you her or feel a slight click as the threads line up.  then go the proper direction. 

But you still need to have the hole aligning as has been well covered.

 

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27 minutes ago, Marauder SASS #13056 said:

And I assume you know the trick that you start a screw by gently going backwards until you her or feel a slight click as the threads line up.  then go the proper direction. 

But you still need to have the hole aligning as has been well covered.

 

Been doin that for years works great.

kR

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Most common problem getting a buttstock back on lever guns is that you knocked loose a chunk of wood where stock fits to receiver, and the wood chip is holding the stock from fitting tightly, thus the screw hole in stock is not matching up with the tang holes.....

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15 hours ago, Marauder SASS #13056 said:

And I assume you know the trick that you start a screw by gently going backwards until you her or feel a slight click as the threads line up.  then go the proper direction. 

But you still need to have the hole aligning as has been well covered.

 

This^ plus be sure no other attachment screws are tightened yet and causing a bind on this one.

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I used "rust and blue remover" I think it was Birchwood casey. You use a patch or small cloth (wearing rubber gloves) simply wipe down the areas you want the bluing gone, wait a few minutes then wipe with wet cloth. Repeat the process until you get the desired look. The resulting finish is easy to care for, I simply wipe it down with a gun cloth or wipe after handling. No problem with rust and I live 2 miles from the beach. It seems to me that some of the rust protection remains from the bluing. I don't know, I'm not a chemist. I was told that this is how the Hollywood gunsmiths/ property masters treated their weapons for that worn look. It was supposedly a big secret. I was told they sometimes put a coat of carnuba wax on them, I did not. I have refinished two so far and plan to do a few more. The one pictured was a bit rusty when I bought it.

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If you have not been successful yet, I have used an icepick or a long shanked small diameter punch or drift pin to make sure all the holes are in alignment.  Before inserting the screw, just drop the icepick into the hole and see if it comes out the other side.  If not, the holes are not aligned and the screw's threads are not going to have anything to grab.  Don't force the issue, you don't want to risk buggering the threads.

Edited by J-BAR #18287
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22 hours ago, Eyesa Horg said:

This^ plus be sure no other attachment screws are tightened yet and causing a bind on this one.

 

That is a good suggestion and has worked for me many times.

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I assume you have tried the "bigger hammer"?

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Nope, so far haven't been able to get the darn thing started. Tried all the suggestions so far. Removed some wood from the whole, dont want to remove any more. Loosened the hammer screw  (which also secures the lower tang) still no go. It is an extremely fine thread on that screw. Will be able to try again this weekend. I'm going to try squeezing the upper and lower tang together with a wood clamp to see if it lines up. I have a few more ideas as well.

Thanks for all the ideas

 

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On 1/27/2021 at 6:29 PM, Bullet Hole Kid SASS#81025 said:

The stock looks very nice, by the way. How about a picture when it's done?

that was my first thought as well , it looks as near a perfect fit as possible to my eyes so i think something has lodged in the hole alignment or the stock has swelled/shrunk ever so slightly in the refinish , should take very little to fix , first i would run an alignment probe to see if its something that can be dislodged , then if necessary look to adjust with the drill bit very carefully , you want to maintain the fantastic fit or wood to steel , 

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2 hours ago, T.K. said:

Nope, so far haven't been able to get the darn thing started. Tried all the suggestions so far. Removed some wood from the whole, dont want to remove any more. Loosened the hammer screw  (which also secures the lower tang) still no go. It is an extremely fine thread on that screw. Will be able to try again this weekend. I'm going to try squeezing the upper and lower tang together with a wood clamp to see if it lines up. I have a few more ideas as well.

Thanks for all the ideas

 

Will it screw into place without the stock?

If no, loosen the 2 trigger plate screws and start the stock screw. Then tighten those 2 screws.

OLG 

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Examine screw tip carefully to see if you have peened over the first partial thread.  If so, a fine 60 degree triangular file will let you straighten out the starter thread.

 

If you can EASILY start the screw with the stock off and you can't do same with stock in place - Well, the problem has to do with the stock.   LOOK carefully with a good flashlight for what is causing the interference or offset of the screw from the threads.  Look from lower tang up through the threaded hole and see where the screw tip is sitting against the top surface of the lower tang metal (it will be very close to the hole).   Doing all these things should give you the exact reason for failure.   Then you have to find what causes the failure only when stock is in place.

 

good luck, GJ 

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HI FINALLY GOT IT STARTED!!!!!

I noticed that when installing the screw into the hole, it seemed to be hitting the lower tang a little off center (towards the butt). I used a rat tail file and removed a tiny bit of wood and tried it again. Did this twice and it finally started.

I had used the drill bit trick mentioned above and that made the holes slightly oblong on the top and bottom but it was the middle of the hole that was forcing the screw off center.

THANK-YOU and GOD BLESS to ALL YOU FOLKS THAT MADE SUGGESTIONS AND HELPED ME OUT!

 

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