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Refinishing a Rossi M92

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I did mine with Citristrip from Walmart then Minwax. Looked pretty good.

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I think I used Red Mahogany trying for the old red appearance


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When I had my 92 I used WD-40 to take the finish off and there was some nicely grained dark wood under the black stain they used.

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8 hours ago, Major E A Sterner #12916 said:

When I had my 92 I used WD-40 to take the finish off and there was some nicely grained dark wood under the black stain they used.

Same results I have seen when people take the factory black finish off         GW

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This has been posted off and on for many years.  


Longshot Logan's Instructions for refinishing 


INSTRUCTIONS FOR REFINISHING A UBERTI STOCK. I also do refinish for people who would rather not tackle the job themselves.

I have been refinishing gunstocks for 30 years on and off. Over the past several years I have done quite a few Uberti rifles and handgun grips to get the red sprayed finish off. Here is the method I use all the time for great results. List of items needed.

1.) Quart of Orange Citristrip gel. Available at most larger Hardware stores.

2.) 00 Steel wool and 0000 steel wool.

3.) Minwax Oil Base stain in your choice of color.

4.) 1 paint stick.

5.) Formby's Tung Oil, either high or low gloss or real Tung Oil

6.) Old cotton Tee shirt.

7.) Steam Iron.

8.) 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper.

9.) Rubber disposable gloves.

10) Disposable foam brush.

11) Cheap white 1 inch bristle brush

12) Old Newspapers.

13) Old toothbrush (if checkered)


On a 73 - To remove the fore-stock, you first have to remove the two screws that hold the fore end cap on, and then remove the block that the screws mount to from it's dovetail. Then tap out the pin in the mag tube mounting block on the end of the barrel (this locks the mag tube in place). Slide the mag tube forward and out, then the block out of the dovetail. The fore end will then slide off. You may be able to remove the fore end without removing the block at the end of the barrel by just sliding the mag tube forward enough to drop off the fore end.

The rifle should be disassembled and the wood placed aside on a good work bench free of debris and clutter. Lay out a piece of newspaper and lay the forearm and butt stock down. Apply the Citristrip with the bristle brush liberally ( as thick as you can ) to both pieces covering the sides as much as you can. Now forget about it for about 40 minutes minimum. This stuff stays active for 24 hours so you could even put it on and leave it for a long time.


This wood now will be mostly free of the finish where you applied the citristrip ( It smells nice so you wife won't kill you ) Use the paint stick wearing the rubber gloves and scrape the finish off. it won't all come off the first time and will need to be repeated. The 00 Steel wool is excellent for taking the finish off after scraping. Change the newspaper and lay the wood down again and do another area. You will go through a few pieces of newspaper before your done. As you go follow the same routine with the paint stick and steel wool. Once the wood is bare and clean you can apply one more coat of the citristrip, let it sit a few minutes and then wipe it off following with a good rub down with the 0000 (Extra fine steel wool). You will be amazed at the results.


If the stocks are checkered the old toothbrush works well taking the finish out of the checkering. Now to look over the stock for damage. If there are actual gouges where the wood grain is cut you will have to decide if sanding them out is an option. If there are dents (most likely) then move onto the next step. With the flat iron set hot enough to produce steam (no hotter) take a 6 inch piece of the old tee shirt and soak it in water and squeeze it out. Fold it over a couple of time and place it over the dent. Put the steam iron over it and you will see what happens. The water in the cotton is forced into the wood grain and raises the dent out of the wood. Repeat until it's all out. This take very little time. Once you are happy with your work take it to the kitchen and quickly run the stock under water and pat it quickly to get the excess water off it. Now hold it about two feet over the stove burner constantly moving it until dry. You will feel whiskers all over. These are the end grains of the wood. Use the 400 grit paper very lightly to knock them off followed by a good rub down with 0000 steel wool. The stock should now be ready for final finishing. Use the Stain with the foam brush applying it heavy and letting it sit. After a few minutes wipe the excess off and see if that is the color you want. Reapply for a darker finish. When it looks nice let it dry 24 hours, I know this part will kill you but it is important. When dry use the 0000 steel wool lightly and wipe down with a clean cloth. To apply the Tung oil follow the labels directions. the first few coats take the longest to dry but after that you can put 2 or 3 coats on in one day. I use a piece of the old cotton tee shirt folded into a 2 inch square and make long runs following the grain to apply the finish. Don't apply this finish in anything but thin coats. I usually put 10-12 coats. After every couple of coats (when dry) go over it with 0000 steel wool. I have a wood dowel to hold the forearm and a wood dowel to hold the stock and have them in a 2x4 so the pieces stand up to dry. In a weekend you can get the Uberti to look like a million dollars. Be careful if you use sandpaper to stay away from the stock' sharp edges )the parts that attach or come up to metal) if you over sand these areas the job will look lousy. This procedure take patience but well worth the end results.

If you can get the exact items I described you will be set. To get the high gloss finish just end with a coat of tung oil. To get the low gloss after several layers and when dry just go slowly and steel wool with 0000 followed by furniture polish. This finish can be touched up easily. Longshot Logan

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Try a alcohol based walnut stain, it absorbs into the wood fibers as opposed to oil based stain which pretty much stays on the surface.

You can also scorch the bare wood with a torch before staining which will darken the wood. I did this on a Browning 92. 




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Rossi appears to use an alcohol base stain that tend to penatrate deep making it is difficult to remove.  Plus most hardware store stains won't penatrate over it.

You can either sand if off or use Whiting to lift it


For stains I use Fiebings leather dye. It's alcohol base too and comes in many colors. 


Thiese were stripped of excess oil and stain with whiting and MEK then stained with the Fiebings. Then about 3 or 4 coats of hsnd rubbed Tru-oil.005.thumb.JPG.a03a0a2586711d9c66f2fa6c8ddea03d.JPG





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9 hours ago, Lone Rider SASS#32091 said:

How did you use the WD-40? Just spray on and wipe off?

I sprayed it on, let it soak for a bit, them wiped it off, repeat as needed.

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