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Loading Brass SG Shells-Lesson Learned


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I load 12ga brass shot shells also known as brassies.  Loading brassies takes a little longer than plastic hulls, but I enjoy reloading so I don’t mind the extra time.  Anyway, my normal load involves using two ½ inch dry fiber wads.  Other than the dust and debris from the wads they work well and I’ve never had a problem with them.  

 

Awhile back I was given a bag of 1/2 inch lubricated wads, at the time I didn’t need them, but as I’ve always said if it’s free it’s for me, so put them away until the other day.  I’m going to Darkness Falls and Dark Day on the Santa Fe and decided to load some “special” brassies for the shoot, which is how I got to the point of using the lubed wads.  

 

I loaded the first 36 of 100 shells with the dry wads then I broke out the lubed wads and that’s where things went south in a hurry.  I started putting the first (of 2) lubed wads and as I pulled the lever down on the MEC the wad started dripping lube all over the side of the case and the ram.  I got it seated on top of the over powder card and started the second wad.  The second wad started the same and then the fun really started.  As I lifted the lever off the now seated wad I started hearing a noise, needless to say I never heard a peep out of the dry wads, ever.  I looked into the shell and saw a sight I never expected, the wad was groaning, hissing and bubbling lube.  After waiting for everything to calm down I added an overshot card, shot, and another overshot card, but the fun wasn’t over just yet.  As I started loading the next shell I looked over to see that the previous shell wasn’t quite done, the wads were expanding and the load was moving up the case.  Now it wasn’t dramatic but compared to the dry wad shell sitting next to it was easy to see.  

 

I only loaded the two shells with the lubed wads, the noise and bubbles was more than I could take.  I came in to the house and ordered more non-lubed wads hoping in this COVID delayed shipping times we’re living in that they get here in time to load up some more “special” shells loaded up.  Anyone want some noisy, bubbling lubed wads?

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24 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

Use BPI or Remington 10 gauge plastic wads and throw your fiber wads away.

 

https://www.grafs.com/catalog/product/productId/75247 

 

Nope not going to happen

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I HATE having to scrub that plastic residue out of my shotgun barrel!!

 

 I have a neat way of getting rid of that stuff, but I like not having to do it in the first place!!

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4 minutes ago, Blackwater 53393 said:

I HATE having to scrub that plastic residue out of my shotgun barrel!!

 

 I have a neat way of getting rid of that stuff, but I like not having to do it in the first place!!

 

I've never noticed any.  Then I clean with hot water and protect with Thompson Bore Butter.  

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I like BPI 1044 10Ga Plastic Wads or BPI SPITFIRE 12Ga Wads.  And throw the fiber wads away.  Since I have to clean the barrels anyway, the "snake skin" makes no difference at all.

Edited by Colorado Coffinmaker
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1 hour ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

I like BPI 1044 10Ga Plastic Wads or BPI SPITFIRE 12Ga Wads.  And throw the fiber wads away.  Since I have to clean the barrels anyway, the "snake skin" makes no difference at all.

 

 

See that’s what I like about the fiber, rinse barrels with water, dry, swab with either bore butter or Ballistol (when it’s cold).  No scrubbing, no fuss, no muss.  I guess the time spent is either up front in loading or on the back end cleaning.  YMMV

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I also use plastic wads in my brass shells, but I use the same 12ga wad as I use in plastic hulls.  But an 11 ga nitro overpowder card makes the good seal.  As far as no scrubbing, I don't consider shoving a wadded up paper towel or two down the bore as scrubbing.  

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A little Windex with vinegar and a 1/4 sheet of paper towel pushed thru---DONE. Easier than smokeless.

Cork the barrel and let the Windex sit for a bit.

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10 minutes ago, Kid Rich said:

Problems with the lubed wads may be directly proportionate to the amount of compression applied by the loader to the loadee.

kR

 

I’m sure you’re right about that, but I like’em tight.

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27 minutes ago, Kid Rich said:

Problems with the lubed wads may be directly proportionate to the amount of compression applied by the loader to the loadee.

kR

 

16 minutes ago, Tequila Shooter said:

 

I’m sure you’re right about that, but I like’em tight.

While I have not quite loaded my own brassies yet, I'm getting close.

 

My research suggests a range of 100 psi to 100 pounds total pressure on the powder charge.

 

Any idea how much pressure (psi or total) was on the lubed wads?

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46 minutes ago, John Kloehr said:

 

While I have not quite loaded my own brassies yet, I'm getting close.

 

My research suggests a range of 100 psi to 100 pounds total pressure on the powder charge.

 

Any idea how much pressure (psi or total) was on the lubed wads?

 

No, I don’t measure pressure I just pull the handle until I get a good firm seating.  As someone told me don’t overthink it, it’s black powder not rocket science.  In the 1800’s things weren’t so complicated.

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That sounds strange.  What brand of lubed wads are they?

 

I've only loaded a couple boxes of plastic hulls with lubed wads, but I never noticed any kind of dripping, noises, or bubbles.  Mine are "Muzzleloader Original" brand and seem to be more waxy than liquid.  I did notice that several of the lubed wads seem swollen and out of round, and sometimes they crumble when loading them.  I don't have that problem with dry fiber wads.

 

Lately I've been loading with powder/Nitro card/half thickness lubed wad/full size dry fiber wad/shot/crimp.  They work fine, but I think I'm going to use a slightly smaller powder charge and use two full fiber wads.

 

All you guys that want to throw away your fiber wads can throw them into a box and send them my way.

Edited by Diamond Jake
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