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Help Removing SG Buttstock


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Pards, I’m no “smith” but I can’t figure out how this buttstock comes off, so I took some pictures, I wanted close ups so I’ll label the pics.  This is a 1940’s - 50’s gun.  What am I missing?

 

3A4A6586-91F7-4A9C-8A44-5862822ED1C6.thumb.jpeg.c594507c7dbf11aba112516a9f6e771f.jpeg

BACK OF BUTTSTOCK - THE HOLES WERE FOR A PAD

 

9B618329-A0DC-4097-8E98-2F82DE3CD21B.thumb.jpeg.d24bacc39e9e933d22a7d2440b5044e0.jpeg

BOTTOM THE SCREW THAT’S MISSING WAS A SHORT WOOD SCREW

 

718B9F44-97B3-4826-83A5-F966F61DA97F.thumb.jpeg.898e4a64715ca0ac8cd1a8eee049d828.jpeg

WIDER VIEW, THERE ARE NO OTHER SCREWS UNDER THE TRIGGER GUARD

 

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LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE

 

FB62E223-4378-4377-AFE1-7E0DE532A99F.thumb.jpeg.8df258ff2eed4707927fc153708f370f.jpeg

TOP OF RECEIVER SHOWING SAFETY

84F03334-24AC-4A94-A014-1245E4A42505.jpeg

CD8D3159-C96E-475F-97AA-414A06E68E63.jpeg

Edited by Tequila Shooter
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Your first clue - there is no large hole in the butt stock where a "through bolt" is threaded into receiver.  That means the butt stock is held onto the receiver by wood screws through the upper and lower tangs, usually. 

 

As RC says, push the break-open lever over to the right and a large screw head will appear there.   CAREFULLY remove it.  It is usually a hard screw to remove the first time.  This is a great time to use a closely fitting screw driver tip and a small hand impact driver.  

 

Why not tell us the brand/model of gun you are working on?  It helps a lot.

 

Good luck, GJ

Edited by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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You won't really know that there is no screw under the front lip of the trigger guard until you try to rotate the trigger guard as if you are unscrewing it by rotating around the front tip of the guard.

 

 

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13 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

What's that at the back on the top tang?

OLG 


I’d bet a donut that it’s the end of a screw whose head is hidden by the trigger guard.  And the one that holds the buttstock to the action.

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21 minutes ago, J-BAR #18287 said:


I’d bet a donut that it’s the end of a screw whose head is hidden by the trigger guard.  And the one that holds the buttstock to the action.

What I was think'n too. ;)

OLG

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41 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

What's that at the back on the top tang?

OLG 

The safety

 

25 minutes ago, J-BAR #18287 said:


I’d bet a donut that it’s the end of a screw whose head is hidden by the trigger guard.  And the one that holds the buttstock to the action.

 

44 minutes ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

You won't really know that there is no screw under the front lip of the trigger guard until you try to rotate the trigger guard as if you are unscrewing it by rotating around the front tip of the guard.

 

 

 

46 minutes ago, Reverend P. Babcock Chase said:

If you remove the trigger guard, you may find another screw going up through the trigger plate (in addition to the one under to opening lever.)

 

A00E6C27-CEA3-4506-83B6-485357FC19DB.thumb.jpeg.029f0c10e78acd2d60a706f182b850f7.jpeg

 

The trigger guard goes into the receiver at the front, the back had 1 wood screw, I can’t see a way to move or rotate the trigger guard.

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1 hour ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

Your first clue - there is no large hole in the butt stock where a "through bolt" is threaded into receiver.  That means the butt stock is held onto the receiver by wood screws through the upper and lower tangs, usually. 

 

As RC says, push the break-open lever over to the right and a large screw head will appear there.   CAREFULLY remove it.  It is usually a hard screw to remove the first time.  This is a great time to use a closely fitting screw driver tip and a small hand impact driver.  

 

Why not tell us the brand/model of gun you are working on?  It helps a lot.

 

Good luck, GJ

 

I did take that screw off, just didn’t show in the picture.  The brand/model is a little hard to figure here are pictures of the makers mark on the barrels 

36396B2E-520D-42D3-B1FB-86992BC07B27.thumb.jpeg.7d72d8a9466721b015330b2883f22ade.jpeg

2B858F5F-661E-4CBD-90AF-F18923573163.thumb.jpeg.91f2a76064535a4fd2d39847edbbdc2f.jpeg

2D2F6F79-2024-4A31-9FC9-BAB44285840A.thumb.jpeg.1164abc0a068850aa004e3bb8c092073.jpeg

 

 

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22 minutes ago, Tyrel Cody said:

I can't help at all, but I would like to know what make/model and gauge it is; good looking shotgun. 

 

Here’s what I think it is:

Manufacturer - Marixa-Eibar, Spain

Imported for - Parker-Ballard, Willmington, DE

Model - Points Best

10 ga, 3 ½ Chamber

Edited by Tequila Shooter
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18 minutes ago, J-BAR #18287 said:

Pull the rear of the trigger guard up out of the stock and try to rotate it.  I bet it will lift out.

 

16 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Wiggle the TG and see if you can lift the long tang and the TG may just unscrew itself. 

OLG 

 

the rear of the trigger guard (where the wood screw was) seems like something is holding it.  If I gently pull the trigger up (off the stock from underneath) it moves a little and I can barely see a screw under it, so I think you’re both correct.  I have to figure out how the TG comes off. 

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It's an Eibar.  Spanish double.  Likely made 20 years ago or more.

 

Quote

I have to figure out how the TG comes off. 

The trigger guard will have a "captive" screw (welded or soldered) at the front, on the part of the guard that meets up with the bottom of receiver.  It will typically be fairly large diameter.  Like about 3/8"     As you rotate the trigger guard counter-clockwise, the trigger guard starts to easily clear the wood and lift away from the receiver.  The first rotation is hard to perform without gouging either the stock or the receiver metal.   Go slowly and carefully.  This is a common design on side-by-sides.

 

Good luck, GJ

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5 minutes ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

It's an Eibar.  Spanish double.  Likely made 20 years ago or more.

 

The trigger guard will have a "captive" screw (welded or soldered) at the front, on the part of the guard that meets up with the bottom of receiver.  It will typically be fairly large diameter.  Like about 3/8"     As you rotate the trigger guard counter-clockwise, the trigger guard starts to easily clear the wood and lift away from the receiver.  The first rotation is hard to perform without gouging either the stock or the receiver metal.   Go slowly and carefully.  This is a common design on side-by-sides.

 

Good luck, GJ

 

GJ, is this the screw you’re talking about

745D71B3-8C66-4588-8EA7-A6CB8489B671.thumb.jpeg.83b638cadf4aa226794c421f1519cca0.jpeg

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11 hours ago, Tequila Shooter said:

 

GJ, is this the screw you’re talking about

 

I was mistaken-That screw will have to be removed!

OLG 

Edited by The Original Lumpy Gritz
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Note the picture:  If you remove the rear trigger guard screw, the trigger guard itself should unscrew at the front:

 

 

 

Resized_20201228_172807.jpeg.d3a3b9a759af32d85ec3acaa4cff1c5e.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Tequila Shooter said:

 

GJ, is this the screw you’re talking about

745D71B3-8C66-4588-8EA7-A6CB8489B671.thumb.jpeg.83b638cadf4aa226794c421f1519cca0.jpeg

 

That screw is going to take a special thin bit to remove it.  Maybe watch my video on taking apart a shotgun with similar design. About midway I take the trigger plate screws out and knock out the trigger plate.

 

 

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4 hours ago, Tequila Shooter said:

 

GJ, is this the screw you’re talking about

745D71B3-8C66-4588-8EA7-A6CB8489B671.thumb.jpeg.83b638cadf4aa226794c421f1519cca0.jpeg

That screw is going to have to come out along with the one under the top lever and under the trigger guard , then the bottom metal which has the triggers attached will have to come out , then you should be able to get the stock off , may also have to fiddle with the safety depending on how the stock is inletted . It’s a traditional box lock . Make sure your screwdrivers fit well . 

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6 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

You won't really know that there is no screw under the front lip of the trigger guard until you try to rotate the trigger guard as if you are unscrewing it by rotating around the front tip of the guard.

 

 

If you look at the top picture he put in you can see the screw behind the safety that is under the trigger guard 

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12 hours ago, Tequila Shooter said:

 

GJ, is this the screw you’re talking about

745D71B3-8C66-4588-8EA7-A6CB8489B671.thumb.jpeg.83b638cadf4aa226794c421f1519cca0.jpeg

I have a very similar shotgun to yours.  I would first suggest putting the gun on safe to prevent accidentally pulling the triggers, it becomes MUCH harder to reassemble the gun if the triggers are pulled.

 

That screw does NOT need to come out to remove the butt stock.  As already stated above the trigger guard will rotate counter clockwise if you lift up the back end.

 

The removal of the above screw will be very difficult as the slot depth is very shallow and probably hasn't been removed since the shotgun was originally built. 

 

I'll note that the springs that handle the opening, closing and cocking of the gun are leaf springs (and thick ones), not coil springs.  Slicking up this gun is for the advanced tinkerer or a gunsmith.

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1 hour ago, Tequila Shooter said:

@Buckshot Bob  thanks I think the video is going to help a lot.

It was late last night when I responded, I just watched the first portion of the video , the bottom metal is a little different than your gun , but the video shows you how to go about it . At least for me a picture/video is worth a 1000 words . From your pictures it also looks like you’re stock might be cracked at the back of the tang . Allot of times they crack at the rear stock screw 

if you happen to accidentally fire the gun taking it apart just put the bbls and forearm back on the frame and you can cock the hammers again 

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THANKS EVERYONE!  

Success, I finally got the stock off.  The back of the TG was stuck, it may have never been off because it looked like the varnish was holding it.  Anyway, once I got the TG off the rest came apart easily.  Now I can get to the reason I was trying to get the buttstock off, I’m going to get rid of the annoying auto safety first.  Then I’m going to try to figure out why when I break it open the last ¼ inch does fall open.  With one hand I have to hold the buttstock, with the other hand I have to pull the barrel’ s down and with my third hand insert/remove the shells.  It’s that whole third hand thing that’s the hard part :ph34r:.

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Think you mean the last 1/4" the action WON'T fall open.  That is where the hammer cockers are doing their work.  The cocking levers need to be adjusted so it occurs earlier, easier and one side then the other cocks (to spread the effort out so both barrels don't cock at one time).   And you need to ensure the action still has a spring buffer as the action stops, or you will slam the action parts hard enough to damage them when the action goes full open.  That can be kinda tricky to get right. 

 

1 - you don't have spare parts to put in if you damage a part (go to far with grinding metal off or lightening the hammer springs)

2 - sounds like you haven't done this before.

 

The auto-safety is usually not hard.  Leave it so you can engage safety manually - if you ever sell the gun, it will be lots more acceptable if there is at least the manual safety available.

 

A double gunsmith would be worth the cost at this point.  Boomstick Jay, Steve at Steve's Gunz (aka Nate Kiowa Jones) are a couple.

 

Good luck, GJ

Edited by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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