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heavy duty nipple wrench recommendations


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All, the 1860 Army I got used from a friend has nipples that are seized in place and a little squashed.  I can keep it running by cutting one side of the cap to make it fit over the squashed nipples, but I'd like to get them out, dress them up and maybe replace them.  any recommendations on a good heavy duty nipple wrench, and is it recommended to use WD40 or Evapo-rust or something?  I've used evapo-rust on some lee reloading dies and it seemed to strip off the finish, and I'd rather not loose what's left of the finish on my cylinder.  Any recommendations would be appreciated.

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First thing you should do is soak the parts in Kroil for 2 days.

That may loosen it up for you.

I make a 1/4" drive socket with a groove milled thru the middle to allow using a ratchet or breaker bar directly above the nipple.

They're stronger than the cheap handles but can still be broken if you don't soak it first.

 

You can contact me for more info at : brucew@commspeed.net 

 

 

KingSnake

NIPPLE SOCKET.jpg

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36 minutes ago, KingSnake said:

First thing you should do is soak the parts in Kroil for 2 days.

That may loosen it up for you.

I make a 1/4" drive socket with a groove milled thru the middle to allow using a ratchet or breaker bar directly above the nipple.

They're stronger than the cheap handles but can still be broken if you don't soak it first.

 

You can contact me for more info at : brucew@commspeed.net 

 

 

KingSnake

NIPPLE SOCKET.jpg

 

KingSnake, Yours is definitely the strongest nipple wrench, plus is could be used with a breaker bar!  Do you also have a plate that the cylinder sits on, can be put in a vice, that has some protrusions that would prevent the cylinder from turning?  It used to come as an option with the Ted Cash Ratcheting wrench, but seems to have disappeared.   It was right handy!

 

eng_pm_Percussion-Cylinder-Stand-2359_1.jpg.1eeec2dd8af8635df32697abe7b2e073.jpg

Edited by McCandless
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For the kroil pour it into a clean pint paint can. You can buy them at almost any store that carries paint. With the lid on it prevents the volatile compounds from evaporating too quickly.

 

If you don't have Kroil use a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. Mix up enough in a pint paint can so that the cylinder is submerged, then put the lid on tight. Change it out with fresh mix every 12 hours for 2-3 days. 

 

 

Edited by Sedalia Dave
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2 hours ago, McCandless said:

 

KingSnake, Yours is definitely the strongest nipple wrench, plus is could be used with a breaker bar!  Do you also have a plate that the cylinder sits on, can be put in a vice, that has some protrusions that would prevent the cylinder from turning?  It used to come as an option with the Ted Cash Ratcheting wrench, but seems to have disappeared.   It was right handy!

 

eng_pm_Percussion-Cylinder-Stand-2359_1.jpg.1eeec2dd8af8635df32697abe7b2e073.jpg

I do make vise blocks for holding various cap and ball revolver cylinders. ROA, 1851, & 1858/1860.

C and B Block.jpg

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From The Possible Shop in Roswell, NM:

https://possibleshop.com/s-s-nipple-wrench.html#cbnipplewrench

 

Nice vise block above, but I just put two stout dowels in a bench vise, and use that to hold the cylinder.

You'll only have to do it once, because you will put anti-seize on the nipple threads when you screw them in.

--Dawg 

18-ratchet-nw.jpg
RATCHETING NIPPLE WRENCH

The Ratcheting Nipple Wrench is heavy duty and American Made, it makes nipple installation and removal easy. Made of 4140 heat treated steel. Great for your 1851 - 1860 - 1858 Cap & Ball Revolver. Slot Size .175". Fits AMPCO Nipples. By Cash.

Description Order No. Price Order Now
Ratcheting Nipple Wrench
For Cap & Ball Revolvers
18-1124 $17.25 btnAddToCart.gif
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And, throw the old nipples away, and replace with new Treso or Slix nipples.

 

Slix works for Uberti & Pietta, but if your revolver is a different brand, you will have to use Treso (which are very good nipples).

Use this document to order the correct product number for your gun.

(TRM)nipples don't exist anymore.

Tresos can be found on ebay

--Dawg

http://74.220.214.175/~dakotask/nick/nips.html


 

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As others have said anti-seize will be your friend once you get them out.  This may be overkill but after 4-5 matches I’ll remove them clean’em up and reinstall with anti-seize.

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1 hour ago, Warden Callaway said:

Just be careful what you Googe for using the word "nipple".  :o

 

I Googled "hardened nipple wrench" and three coppers just arrived at my office to talk to my boss?

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Additional PLUS ONE for Prairie Dawg and Tequila Shooter.  Cannot stress enough loudly enough how important an anti-sieze lube is for the nipples.  As a RETIRED Gunplumber, I also heartily recommend a stand of some sort to hold the cylinder rigid.  VERY RIGID.

Edited by Colorado Coffinmaker
Correct stupid Otto-Korrect
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8 hours ago, Sedalia Dave said:

One bottle is a Lifetime supply. Also highly recommended for MEC collet sizers.

 

71T5qNXzuQL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

 

And you won’t get it everywhere or your hands look like the Tin Man when you’re done. ;):lol:

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On 11/30/2020 at 3:30 PM, Prairie Dawg, SASS #50329 said:

And, throw the old nipples away, and replace with new Treso or Slix nipples.

 

Slix works for Uberti & Pietta, but if your revolver is a different brand, you will have to use Treso (which are very good nipples).

Use this document to order the correct product number for your gun.

(TRM)nipples don't exist anymore.

Tresos can be found on ebay

--Dawg

http://74.220.214.175/~dakotask/nick/nips.html

 

Armi San Marco, I think the threads should be 12-28 per Track of the wolf, does that sound right to the rest of you?

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2 hours ago, Tequila Shooter said:

 

And you won’t get it everywhere or your hands look like the Tin Man when you’re done. ;):lol:

I don't know, you usually don't even have to open it to get it on you!!:D Kinda like Gasoila pipe dope.

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