Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Two T/C Hawken guns. The top is mine, bought new in 1972; serial number 96XX. It used to see a lot of use, and had thousands of rounds put through it in its early years… Bottom one was is the Kid's. Used, received as a gift about a dozen years ago. Serial number K124XXX, undoubtedly built from a kit. Shoots well, but a very amateurish browning job on the barrel, and it’s been “rode hard and put away wet” at some time in its life. (The Kid wants to eventually blue it). Neither had seen the light of day in probably over ten years until this week, when I decided to drag ‘em out, clean ‘em and lube ‘em and get ‘em ready for hunting season. Mine was okay until I got to the flash-hole clean-out screw. Had a hell of a time getting it out, and it got fairly boogered in the process. No problem – quick trip to Lowes for a package of 10-32 1/4 (1/8" diameter, 1/4" long) hex-head set screws. Not slotted like the original, but will work just fine. So I set out to do the same with the Kid’s rifle. Unfortunately, the flash-hole clean-out screw was already seriously boogered, and when I tried to remove it the danged thing snapped. Well poop. I have two thoughts on getting’ the thing out, and would welcome any other suggestions. First thought – grind off the remaining “nub,” and drill a small hole in the screw (it seems to be pretty soft steel). Don’t think “Easy-Outs” come that small, so the thought was to select a small Torx bit and drive into the hole, and hopefully it would provide enough grasp to unscrew it. Second thought – place a small steel nut over the top of the screw, and zap a spot of weldment in the center; hopefully securing the nut to the top of the screw and allowing a wrench purchase and unscrewing. Any other suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Riot Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Kroil soak it overnight and then try a tiny reverse cut drill bit in a pin vise. By “reverse” I mean left handed or counter-clockwise running to get a bite on it. Why can’t I remember the name of that but?...Man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muleshoe Bill SASS #67022 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Easy outs come in sizes that can remove down to #8 screws. It is a tough search for left handed drill bits or taps but they do exist. I have a set of smaller size lefties in shop, but alas we are not close enough for me to run over and try them as screw removers. Kroil soak then drill the screw center out and it may come out, using the torxs idea. welding up the center is ify too easy to burn through soft junk metal. Good luck on the venture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Harley, #14153 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 A Kroil soak, then I think your torx idea will work. If that fails, drill it all out and retap for a larger set screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Riot Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 I think he needs a new gun, Dad... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellowhouse Sam # 25171 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Make sure the rifle is unloaded then take a small torch to those oil soaked threads. It should start to move. A mix of kerosene, ATF fluid, and a little acetone is about the best penetrant around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forty Rod SASS 3935 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 I got my first ML rifle, a TC Hawken in .50 in 1972 after seeing Jeremiah Johnson in a drive in just outside the base at Camp Lejeune. My bunk mate got a .45 and a TC Patriot pistol at the same tme. IMO the barrel should be browned. It's easy to do and closer to historic than blueing. I just helped a young friend finish a Traditions kit and the barrel browned beautifully. Takes about five coats of Birchwood Casey Plum Brown. Heated it with tap water and "carded" it between coats, them gave it a good rub down with GI surplus gun oil on a hot barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cold Lake Kid, SASS # 51474 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 You're supposed to remove those things?????? I'm really embarrassed to say In the 50 or so years I've owned owned my TC Hawken, I've never removed it. I'll have to look into that and I'll follow this thread to see what I ever try to remove it and learn what I have to do if I pooch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nasty Newt # 7365 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Interesting. My TC Hawken doesn't even have one. I have a CVA that has it, but not the Hawken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Joker Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Browning is a form of controlled rusting. Think of the old steel stair rails in a school yard: they are brown rusted but shiny from all the hands that rub them. To brown a barrel in the white you put it in a high humidity area and wait till it gets fuzzy then vigorously polish it with fine steel wool til smooth Replace and repeat until uniform surface color is achieved. To blue boil water and immerse the barrel. Iron oxide is either red or black. You used to be able to buy painters black to add to your whitewash. It was boiled rust These days an aluminum rain gutter sealed at both ends works to suspend the gun barrel in. Or you can use chemicals from brownells Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michigan Slim Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 7 hours ago, Cold Lake Kid, SASS # 51474 said: You're supposed to remove those things?????? I'm really embarrassed to say In the 50 or so years I've owned owned my TC Hawken, I've never removed it. I'll have to look into that and I'll follow this thread to see what I ever try to remove it and learn what I have to do if I pooch. I have never pulled mine either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utah Bob #35998 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 15 hours ago, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said: Kroil soak it overnight and then try a tiny reverse cut drill bit in a pin vise. By “reverse” I mean left handed or counter-clockwise running to get a bite on it. Why can’t I remember the name of that but?...Man! An easy-out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack, SASS #20451 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 I have a set of cobalt left hand drill bits. It is amazing what you can save with them. I only remember once just starting drilling it out didn't catch the broken screw/bolt and backed it right out. Only one time did I need an easy out to remove the bolt after left hand drilling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eyesa Horg Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 I've had minimal luck with EZ outs if the bolt broke, it is tight and will likely break the EZ out. Then drilling will be really a pain. I think I'd just drill it out re-tap and replace the screw. Done. Use choke lube or anti seize on the screw and the nipple in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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