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Broken trigger bolts.


Sarge

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Broke two trigger bolts on my Uberti Running Irons in the past week,  Both broke through the hole that pins them in place.  First question, any way to strengthen this area?  Second, anyone have a spare trigger bolt they'd be willing to part with?  Sounds like everyone is out of them due to issues in Italy.  Thanks.

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Sounds like a heat treat issue, as in brittle.

Buy at least 3-4.

Call the maker in the morning.

Have you ck'd Brownells? 

Have you tried contacting SASS gunsmiths?

Can you post a picture of the broken bolt?

OLG 

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21 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Sounds like a heat treat issue, as in brittle.

Buy at least 3-4.

Call the maker in the morning.

Have you ck'd Brownells? 

Have you tried contacting SASS gunsmiths?

Can you post a picture of the broken bolt?

OLG 

I know Taylor's is out from last week.  Brownell's didn't have it listed on their site.  VTI says Check Stock.  Mackinaw Kid doesn't have one, he has my other one in and can't get the part.  I did order one from Numerich, but they're web site says they are 2 weeks behind in there orders.  That doesn't do me much good.  Will start making some calls in the the am if not luck here.

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Thanks.  Yeah.  Two different Guns.

1 minute ago, Abilene, SASS # 27489 said:

Also check Cimarron and Dixie Gun Works.  Strange they both broke like that.

Yeah two different guns.

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Are you talking about a trigger/bolt "spring"??

If so ... and it is the flat spring ... then that is quite common. Especially factory ones ... I think I got about 250 dry fires out of each of my first pair of Uberti's before they broke. 

If this is the case ... replace with a wire spring. 

triggerboltspring.jpg.47989f62cb91f1d91425238852d6df4c.jpg

Trigger/Bolt spring ... 

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3 minutes ago, Patagonia Pete said:

Are you talking about a trigger/bolt "spring"??

If so ... and it is the flat spring ... then that is quite common. Especially factory ones ... I think I got about 250 dry fires out of each of my first pair of Uberti's before they broke. 

If this is the case ... replace with a wire spring. 

triggerboltspring.jpg.47989f62cb91f1d91425238852d6df4c.jpg

Trigger/Bolt spring ... 

No Sir.  I have extras of those in my parts box.  The bolt is the part that the trigger bolt spring pushes up to lock the cylinder.

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3 minutes ago, Sarge said:

No Sir.  I have extras of those in my parts box.  The bolt is the part that the trigger bolt spring pushes up to lock the cylinder.

 

That can get expensive!  

 

We have a basket full of Uberti Cattleman and have never had one break or otherwise fail. 

 

Try eBay. 

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13 minutes ago, Patagonia Pete said:

Yeah ... I know what an SAA bolt is ... It has an arm that rides on the cam on the side of the hammer ...

Would like to see a picture of one of the "broken" ones. 

Don't have the other one here, but both of them broke in exactly the same place, locking up the cylinder.  First one broke while dry firing. This one broke today during a match.

DSCN1082.JPG

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19 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

That can get expensive!  

 

We have a basket full of Uberti Cattleman and have never had one break or otherwise fail. 

 

Try eBay. 

Good thought.  Plenty of them for the BP guns, but not to fit the Cattelman.

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The inside of the leg as shown on your sample example shows lots of machine marks that create "stress risers."  You might want to inspect your new Bolts and with a narrow flat and some 320 Wet/Dry, polish out those machine marks.  The broken leg also appears to be missing the bevel that starts the leg over the cam.  Look for that also on the new bolts.  As has been mentioned by The Dragoon, the cam may well be too tall.

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26 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

 

The inside of the leg as shown on your sample example shows lots of machine marks that create "stress risers."  You might want to inspect your new Bolts and with a narrow flat and some 320 Wet/Dry, polish out those machine marks.  The broken leg also appears to be missing the bevel that starts the leg over the cam.  Look for that also on the new bolts.  As has been mentioned by The Dragoon, the cam may well be too tall.

 

I've never considered a bolt as a drop in replacement part.  I have polished the bolt as CC recommend on about every new single action I've bought - including Colt.  I've also added the bevel to a few that had none.  I carefully polish the cam area on the bolt.  I usual don't change the height.  But Uberti Cattleman tend to have a step at the low end of the cam.  I tend to reduce this step and blend the cam ramp to one slope.

 

59b4dd31cc4ba_SmokeWagonDcamSep2017.jpg.0fb8e7d98e0925515870c2c7641fce9c.jpg

 

Picture of a cam I find typical of a Cattleman.  I blend the "bright" face down to remove the steap lower ramp. 

 

 

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I am no gun plumber by any stretch. But I do recall reading an article some years ago in an older publication concerning tuning single action revolvers. One point that was made was how you alter the timing of the bolt drop by the tension of that leg to the cam. If bolt drop was a little early to spread the leg slightly to have it ride the cam a little longer. Too late dropping called for a little bend the other way. My point is would be that you should be careful when altering the relationship between the leg of the bolt and the cam it rides on. I'm sure this is common knowledge by those who know their way around the inside of a Colt SAA or clone, just a head's up for anyone with a dremel and screwdriver.;)

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28 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

I've never considered a bolt as a drop in replacement part.  I have polished the bolt as CC recommend on about every new single action I've bought - including Colt.  I've also added the bevel to a few that had none.  I carefully polish the cam area on the bolt.  I usual don't change the height.  But Uberti Cattleman tend to have a step at the low end of the cam.  I tend to reduce this step and blend the cam ramp to one slope.

 

59b4dd31cc4ba_SmokeWagonDcamSep2017.jpg.0fb8e7d98e0925515870c2c7641fce9c.jpg

 

Picture of a cam I find typical of a Cattleman.  I blend the "bright" face down to remove the steap lower ramp. 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

 

The inside of the leg as shown on your sample example shows lots of machine marks that create "stress risers."  You might want to inspect your new Bolts and with a narrow flat and some 320 Wet/Dry, polish out those machine marks.  The broken leg also appears to be missing the bevel that starts the leg over the cam.  Look for that also on the new bolts.  As has been mentioned by The Dragoon, the cam may well be too tall.

Great information here.  Thank you.  As these guns were both short stroked guns, does this have any impact on the relationship between the cam and the leg?

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8 minutes ago, Sarge said:

 

Great information here.  Thank you.  As these guns were both short stroked guns, does this have any impact on the relationship between the cam and the leg?

Absolutely 

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The amount of "tension" applied by spreading the bolt arm should only be enough to keep the arm against the hammer.  Reducing the tension to allow the arm to fall off the side of the cam is a problem that will only get worse. The bolt arm should fall off the forward surface of the cam because it is being pull to the rear as the hammer is cycled back.   I dress both parts differently so they "lock" together so the arm can't fall off prematurely.

 

W.C., you can blend the "break line" in the pic as well to smooth the transition (like a baby moon hubcap).  The "reset cut" (on top of the bolt arm) is a must and should be polished. It should stop before or at the top outside rearmost corner to maintain the full width "contact patch" that rides the cam (which prevents early "slide off" as opposed to "drop off").

 

Mike

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