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Euroarms made Armi Sam Paula model 73 screws


Pee Wee #15785

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Anyone know if there is a set of screws sold for an Euroarms made Armi Sam Paula model 73 made in the 1970's.  It uses metric screws but some sizes I can't find.  If someone knows the sizes of the screws please let me know as several are on their last legs before the heads break.  Gun was made in the 1970's for the centennial.  It came in .44 WCF with a .427 bullet requirement to shoot good.  It is a true .44-40 barrel not a .44 mag barrel.  Smaller frame than the Uberti so parts are hard to find and info is just not there as the maker has been gone for a long time.  VTI is no help!

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That's the one I was talking about in your other thread. I traded mine years ago to Knifemaker for a 66 in 38sp. Obviously screws are not made for a specific gun, so you should be able to source them. You say VTI is no help. But did you inquire about sending your existing screws to them and let them try and mate them to others on hand.? If push comes to shove a good gunsmith, and there are several that frequent here, can modify screws or even make from scratch. Won't be cheap though I would bet.

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Unfortunately, at this point in time, NOBODY, not just VTI, has parts for your rifle.  The only current manufacturer of Italian replica '73 parts is Uberti.  Obvously you already know that.  What specific screws do you need??  There may be useable alternate screws.

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Need all. The owners over the years have done a number on the heads.  half of the head on a couple are gone.  I have bought both Petta and Uberti screws and only one of the group worked and the head was to tall.

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Get a screw gauge and determine what you have diameter and pitch wise.  You should then be able to find something with which to work.

 

A good gunsmith can cut screws on a lather with a single point cutter, but for multiple screws on a replica gun, that would be cost prohibitive.

 

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If you can source the proper thread size and pitch the rest is not that difficult.

To cut to length thread a nut on first, make you cut, clean up up your cut, then thread the nut off to chase the threads.

If the head is too large a diameter put some masking tape on the shank to protect threads, chuck it loosely in a drill, then spin the drill against a running grinding wheel. It will insure a round finish to the head.

If it is tapered head on the bottom then just like before, only hold at an angle to the grinding wheel. 

 

Again, parts are made to fit existing threads, not exotic threads created to suit a part.

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