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Fitting Caps to Pietta Yank 51- .44 cal


Major Crimes

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My new Pietta Yank 51's in .44 have arrived and I got to fire 6 rounds from each on Sunday, I'm still smiling.

 

One thing though.

 

The fit around the frame and cylinder was so tight that I could only get the caps on by hand. I tried a Cash and a New Polish capper and neither would work.

 

Even when fitting them by hand they were very tight and there was very little clearance (the angle was very acute). My Yank 51's in .36 were not this tight and the Polish Capper worked fine.

 

Has anyone else had this problem?

 

Is there a fix?

 

 

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Quote

Modifying the cylinders of percussion revolvers by opening up the cap/nipple recess area to accommodate the use of all types of cappers is allowed.

SHB p.40

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2 hours ago, PaleWolf Brunelle, #2495L said:

SHB p.40

 

I read this to mean PWB has given me permission to break out the dremel and go to town on the frame:D

 

The problem appears to be the angle and size of the cut away piece in the frame from the recoil shield (I have no idea if I have the terminology right) in the picture its the cutaway portion from the frame that angles towards the cylinder.

Pocketmodold.jpg

 

Compared to the Pietta you can see the difference.

 

IMG_0110.jpg

 

The pietta appears to be shorter and a steeper angle?

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REF also:
"
Frames and Receivers" SHB p.38

Modifying that part of the frame/recoil shield is usually necessary to convert a percussion revolver to use a cartridge conversion cylinder.

Performing the modification and continuing to use a percussion cylinder is allowed.

 

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I have one 1860 that I had to open the frame up on in order to be able to get a cap on a nipple. It was so tight I couldn't even do it by hand. The other 2 I have did not have that issue.

 

First used the large coarse sanding drum followed by the fine one. Once I had enough clearance I polished the surface with rouge and a buffing wheel. The applied a little cold blueing.

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3 hours ago, Sedalia Dave said:

I have one 1860 that I had to open the frame up on in order to be able to get a cap on a nipple. It was so tight I couldn't even do it by hand. 


Kinda makes you wonder how they fired it to get those proof marks on it!  :blink:

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One thing to keep in mind is that at different times the Italian manufacturers have used 4 or 5 different nipple lengths over the years. I have 3 1860 Armies and each one needs a different nipple length. Fortunately Track of the Wolfs sell them all in AMPCO stainless steel

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Most of my cap guns are older, and it is easy to get the capper in there to put the caps on the nipples.
I've noticed that the newer Piettas don't have as much space for capping the nipples.

I had a pair of Marshals that did not have that groove in the capping region, and they were a bear to cap.

I don't really have a solution, except to hog the area out a bit with your Dremel.

--Dawg

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PLUS ONE too Prairie Dawg

 

Plus some additional stuff.  I use Ted Cash Snail Cappers on ALL of my 44 Pietta Cap Guns.  MODIFIED Ted Cash Cappers.  I reduced the bottom "toe" of the capper that supports the Cap until is was even with the bottom radius of the Cap.  I still had trouble with some Pietta.  Those had the cut for capping made deeper for capping.  A nuisance it is.

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7 hours ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

 

PLUS ONE too Prairie Dawg

 

Plus some additional stuff.  I use Ted Cash Snail Cappers on ALL of my 44 Pietta Cap Guns.  MODIFIED Ted Cash Cappers.  I reduced the bottom "toe" of the capper that supports the Cap until is was even with the bottom radius of the Cap.  I still had trouble with some Pietta.  Those had the cut for capping made deeper for capping.  A nuisance it is.

 

Yeah, my 36's had the trench for capping but these ones don't?

Oh well out with the Dremel.

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25 minutes ago, Major Crimes said:

 

Yeah, my 36's had the trench for capping but these ones don't?

Oh well out with the Dremel.

I modified my Cash in line cappers and helped on most of my revolvers. I just filed the brass tip under the cap and It worked better. DC

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3 hours ago, Major Crimes said:

 

Yeah, my 36's had the trench for capping but these ones don't?

Oh well out with the Dremel.


Good on you!

 

Hell, it’s only metal and money. Courage!

 

Indulge yourself.  Think how proud you will be when you solve that problem your very own self!

 

:D
 

We need photos when you are done, of course.

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13 minutes ago, J-BAR #18287 said:


Good on you!

 

Hell, it’s only metal and money. Courage!

 

Indulge yourself.  Think how proud you will be when you solve that problem your very own self!

 

:D
 

We need photos when you are done, of course.

 

J-Bar thinks its a good idea...……………………………………. hhhmmm maybe I should rethink this?

 

Don't tell anyone but the only dremeling work I do is opening up the rear sights on the hammer. Anything involving parts that contain explosive forces I take to a very understanding and talented GS,  ssssshhhhhhhh:blush:

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3 minutes ago, Major Crimes said:

 

J-Bar thinks its a good idea...……………………………………. hhhmmm maybe I should rethink this?


Ouch!

 

You are not a true cowboy until you have

 

1. solved a problem with a Dremel.

 

2. ruined a gun with a Dremel.

 

On this one you are pretty safe. If you remove the whole damn recoil shield you call the gun a Dance Brothers revolver, and be cool!

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21 hours ago, Turkey Flats Jack said:

I can see what you mean by it being steeper and tighter. I've always used the traditions straight inline capper with good results. But you may have to open that up even for one of them. 

 

traditions-straightline-capper.jpg

That’s the one I have, and I used a file on part of the tip at the end of it for a better access to the nipples.

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