Marshal Jennison Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 Hi all: I’ve looked all over and I cannot find out which direction to drift out the trigger assembly pin (and also which direction to reinstall it). I don’t want to damage anything, obviously. I have a pristine 2009 IAC Model 1897, never fired. I was shocked at all the bright, active rust—under glistening oil— in the magazine tube inside, the slide, and all over the inside of the trigger assembly. I strongly believe the factory simply didn’t bother to remove all the bluing salts. Luckily, the carrier, bolt and bore appear to be clean. Anyway, advice on removing and reinstalling that pin (as well as any other advice on the trigger assembly) would be much appreciated. I’ve got no other choice here. Thanks as always, Marshal Jennison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outlaw Gambler Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 it doesn't matter which direction in which you remove or reinstall the trigger pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom, SASS #54973 Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 It's not a tapered pin... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 It'll drive out either way. You will find a "slave pin" will be REAL handy when you try to put it back together!! http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Model97dis.html Step 10 mentions using a nail. The shaft of a q-tip also works in a pinch. Pin has to be short enough to clear the receiver as you slide the trigger guard back in, then the real pin drives in through receiver walls and replaces the slave. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Rapid Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 Here's photo of a surrogate/slave pin that GJ referred to. Holds trigger in place until trigger assembly is back in the receiver. Easily comes out when regular pin is driven in. RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 RR - you NAILED it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Rapid Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 GJ... Sure glad I didn't show it with a screw in place of the nail!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 Stick a punch in next one and see if the OP gets the drift! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Jennison Posted August 10, 2020 Author Share Posted August 10, 2020 Wow! Thanks for all the terrific advice! I punched out the pin and then knocked out the trigger guard with a small plastic headed hammer. Man, the inside of the trigger housing is loaded with red rust. Oiled red rust. I have to figure out how to get rid of it and keep it from coming back. As I mentioned, I think this is from a failure to remove the bluing salts completely. Any advice on how to attack the rust will also be greatly appreciated. Never a dull moment! Thanks, Marshal Jennison Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Rust - I use Kroil and bronze wool. Won't take bluing off, but the Kroil loosens the rust about as quick as anything. Midway and Brownells carry Kroil. Has been used for years for just that purpose. Hardware stores carry bronze wool. It is softer than steel and won't take off bluing unless you scrub for a long time. Quote I strongly believe the factory simply didn’t bother to remove all the bluing salts. Yes, very common. Every new gun with a mag tube has strong possibility that the factory did not clean/neutralize the caustic oxide bluing salts sufficiently. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Jennison Posted August 10, 2020 Author Share Posted August 10, 2020 Thank you. I've used PB blaster and Marvel Mystery oil in the past, neither of which had impressed me in removing rust (coupled with 0000 steel wool) any more than plain old 3 in 1 oil and steel wool. Kroil gets bandied about quite often here and on other forums. Is it really that much better at rust removal than the other penetrating oils? If so, I'll make a bee-line for it quicker than s**t through a goose. Thanks, Marshall Jennison Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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