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Cleaning up Dillon 450 measure.


Warden Callaway

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836826721_Dillon450measuredurtyJuly2020.jpg.fbd6c17211d8683dd603b1db6ebc07a7.jpg

 

I picked up a Dillon 450 era measure at a flea bargain table a year ago. I started using it last winter to load BlackMZ powder.  It seem to do a fine job.  I know to dump powder and clean up as soon as I'm done loading.   

 

But this summer I have been getting erratic results.  I checked and cleaned and cleaned the drop funnel in the die but still was having problems. 

 

I could see crud down in the bottom of the funnel but couldn't get at it because the reservoir is sealed in place by Loctite.  I did some research and the use of Acetone was recommended to dissolve the Loctite.   I drenched the connection and waited some 5 minutes or a bit more.  It was still stuck so I used the brass hammer on the metal housings - tapping around it gently.   I could hear the difference in the ring to thud.  It came out easily. 

 

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The funnel area wouldn't clean up with steel wool until I soaked it with acetone.  I later washed it with dish soap and water. 

 

I have hopes this will fix the inconsistency drop problem.   Anyway,  I can now take the reservoir off and do a better job of cleaning. 

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If you'll call Dillon and tell them your powder hopper plastic has turned dark, they will send you a new clear one. 

 

The one I had on a Square Deal turned pretty dark after about 10 years of Titegroup use.  I decided I would clean it.  I tried every cleaner and solvent I had and nothing worked.  I started with Windex and moved up to finally using carburetor cleaner.  The carburetor cleaner turned the whole thing an opaque green.  I should mention that you should not use carburetor cleaner on plastic.    I finally gave up and called Dillon and 3 days later, I was back in business.

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Brake cleaner is not good for cleaning the hopper , either. I have one that is all cloudy from a cleaning attempt 'bout ten years ago. It was also discolored from Titegroup. I pondered the Pyrex ones for a bit when Lumpy posted about them a while back. Then my mind wandered somewhere else :rolleyes: and I forgot about them until just now when I read Ethan's post.  The one I use most is an aluminum one , it is easy to wipe out.

Rex :D

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I haven't put the measure back together but I'm thinking that I probably should drill and tap a couple of holes in the body for stubby screws like are used on the 550 measure.  I can just see me pulling it off by the reservoir and having it come disjointed from the base.  It would be a mess. :o

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I couldn't sleep so I got up and installed screws in the measure to hold the reservoir on. 

 

453572643_DillonmeasurescrewsJuly2020.jpg.3a42f254d4552fe3840f86b8c9d28b95.jpg

 

I reviewed what Dillon had done on the 550 measure. Why,  they just used a sheet metal screws.  I found a couple from inventory that were close enough and drilled appropriate size holes.  Looks like it should work fine.

 

Maybe I can sleep now. :unsure:

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Update:  My efforts to clean the funnel area of the measure helped little if any. I resorted to giving the charge bar a short double bump on the push end and another double bump at the end of the return trip.  This seemed to improve the consistency somewhat.

 

I have a Lyman 55 black powder measure and it always worked well.  It's just awkward to mount and awkward to use. And more difficult to clean. 

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6 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

Update:  My efforts to clean the funnel area of the measure helped little if any. I resorted to giving the charge bar a short double bump on the push end and another double bump at the end of the return trip.  This seemed to improve the consistency somewhat.

 

I have a Lyman 55 black powder measure and it always worked well.  It's just awkward to mount and awkward to use. And more difficult to clean. 

 

Try a second baffle. 

The glass hopper comes with a second baffle. The glass hopper is much easier to clean, and no static powder cling.

OLG 

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1 minute ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

 

Try a second baffle. 

The glass hopper comes with a second baffle. The glass hopper is much easier to clean, and no static powder cling.

OLG 

 

I'm thinking of trying the small charge bar. I'm using the large one but the powder opening is cranked almost shut to get 1cc volume.  By using the small charge bar,  the opening will be much bigger.  I need pictures. 

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12 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

I haven't put the measure back together but I'm thinking that I probably should drill and tap a couple of holes in the body for stubby screws like are used on the 550 measure.  I can just see me pulling it off by the reservoir and having it come disjointed from the base.  It would be a mess. :o

I did that once with a RCBS "Little Dandy". Picked it up by the tube and the bottom end with the rotor fell off. Had just filled it.

Rex :D

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87453843_DillonlargebaroneJuly2020.jpg.4e3df654ee68c9fbc588e70fd07d6ab0.jpg

 

Here is the opening for power to enter bar (black area on right) on large bar adjusted to 1cc. 

 

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Here is opening of large bar with 1/4" spacer between stop and measure body. (Picture is rotated 180 from first picture)

 

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Here is small powder bar installed and adjusted to 1cc.

 

I'm thinking the small bar will have a much better chance of filling consistently. 

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2 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

I'm thinking of trying the small charge bar. I'm using the large one but the powder opening is cranked almost shut to get 1cc volume.  By using the small charge bar,  the opening will be much bigger.  I need pictures. 

 

PM me your phone number, and I'll send you a couple of pictures.

Getting very hvy rain here just now. How about you?

OLG 

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Is I said,  I was fighting the measure so I stopped at about 60 rounds.  I was concerned about the possibility of having a round without a charge - even though I am using a RCBS powder stop die.   

 

I have used a beam scale before to measure loaded rounds to see if they were missing a charge. But this is a tedious process.  So I decided to buy an electronic scale.  I didn't put much research into it and chose the Frankford Arsenal model DS-750.  We made a dash to Grafs and Sons and picked one up.

 

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I weighed and empty case and bullet to get a reference weight of an empty round.  Then weighted the lot. All are loaded.  The 5 on bottom row weighed a little light.  The 6 on top weighed a little heavy.  The 40 some in the middle all weighed pretty close - given mixed headstamp brass. 

 

Being we are taking BlackMZ and not Bullseye,  it would be impossible to have an overcharge in a 38 Special case so I shot out the light and heavy loads. I didn't chronograph them but could tell the light loads from the heavy. 

 

Anyway,  the electronic scale made quick work of this exercise. 

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On July 30, 2020 at 4:21 PM, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

 

I have one, and really like it.

Well worth the cost.

OLG 

 

+1

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On 7/30/2020 at 3:21 PM, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

 

I have one, and really like it.

Well worth the cost.

OLG 

 

OLG sent me a picture of what my Dillon 550B looked like new.  Now mine looks like something found on the battlefield at Iwo Jima!

 

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Well,  he really wanted me to see his Pyrex powder hopper. 

 

I'm not ready to go to that experience since I have others that work. And,  to tell the truth,  the little Lee scoops work just fine for black powder and subs.

 

Sorry to see that his scale don't move. :huh:

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