Shotgun Primers

[Jackaroo, # 29989]

Guys, who makes the softest shotgun primers.

My hammer shotgun barely makes a dent in a Fiocchi primer, (no problem with our hammerless  ones) but I had some of those Saloon shells from NZ and they make quite a big dent and work well.

But want to load some black and shoot CC  so looking for a soft primer. 

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

I find Cheddites have a surface that is very high up in the battery cup (flush with outer ring), and thus easy for a TTN or similar hammer double to light them off.  Usually this kind of failure to dent the primer is caused by a worn-short firing pin, light hammer strike, or dirty firing pin channel, too.

 

Good luck, GJ

[Snake-eye, SASS#45097]

Try Winchester 209’s the cup surface is flush with the brass base and set off readily even on TTN with light springs.

[El Hombre]

Jackaroo try federal 209 primers. I use them on my SG rounds with no problems even with black.

[Null N. Void]

I use Winchester Primers.   As was said, they are flat all the way across.  I find I have one fussy SG that does not like Federals, but goes off every time with Winchesters.

["Big Boston"]

6 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

I find Cheddites have a surface that is very high up in the battery cup (flush with outer ring), and thus easy for a TTN or similar hammer double to light them off.  Usually this kind of failure to dent the primer is caused by a worn-short firing pin, light hammer strike, or dirty firing pin channel, too.

 

Good luck, GJ

 

Of the primers I've used, I've also found that they have the thinnest cup. Also as stated the anvil is up there. The Cheddite shotgun primer is also a bit larger in diameter, hard to seat in new hulls, great for older hulls that have largish primer holes. 

 

Unfortunately if your firing pin protrudes a bit more than necessary and/or has a stout hammer spring, the anvil will damage the tip of the firing pin and primers will be pierced. There doesn't seem to be, or I haven't found, a standard for protrusion. I've adopted the following guideline: Maximum protrusion should be no more than 1/16", 0.0626". Given that many shotguns come with a 1/8", 0.125" firing pin this is equal to one radius of protrusion, and an ideal firing pin shape should be a circle with the same 0.0625" radius. That is what I use as a rule of thumb. 

 

I'd check firing pin protrusion, shape of the tip and as stated by GJ, check for crud in the channel.  

 

A bit of a stretch, but you did imply that you reload your shotgun ammo, are the backs of your hulls still flat with a good rim. 

 

 

 

IIRC, the primers on the left are Cheddite, and on the right are WW.

 

BB

 

SxS shotguns have a few more issues with firing pins as they are not inline with the shotgun bore. The firing pins strike the primer at an angle. This does promote wear, as does the fact that they are usually short. I've seen some pretty chewed up and dirty examples. Remember, first try and treat the disease, not the symptom. 

[Warden Callaway]

I've not got a lot of experience loading shotguns shells,  having done it only for my black powder shooting since I started cowboy action shooting. 

 

But I have traced failures to fire with reloads to two conditions. 

 

1) Primer set too deep. I measured the death of the primer and I found anything .012 is likely to fail to fire.  I am using a MEC 600 to prime hulls but instead of using the "cup", I place a flat slug of metal so the primer cup only seets flush.  No more failures to fire. 

 

2) Excessive headspace.  Or as they say, the barrels are "off face".  I've repaired several old doubles to put them back on face. 

 

 

I popped off two hulls with just a primer and no charge or load. You can see how much the old gun was worn.  If they were real loads, the recoil of the discharge would have pushed the primer back in. Funneling too deep can cause this same condition. 

[Rye Miles #13621]

Never had a problem with Winchesters or Federals. 

[Jackaroo, # 29989]

21 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

I find Cheddites have a surface that is very high up in the battery cup (flush with outer ring), and thus easy for a TTN or similar hammer double to light them off.  Usually this kind of failure to dent the primer is caused by a worn-short firing pin, light hammer strike, or dirty firing pin channel, too.

 

Good luck, GJ

Hi GJ, yes I've used Cheddites before good primers but have normally used Fiocchi in my hammerless guns as they are flat. I've worked all the springs and smoothed the hammer gun (Rossi) and with the new cowboy saloon shells it punched a really good dent in them and worked fine. They are very slightly domed and very soft but I'll give the cheddites a go if we can get them here.

Thanks.

[Rafe Conager SASS #56958]

Cheddite is what I use. I used to use federal in my hammer shotgun but was having inconsistent strikes. I was told that it was because federal shotgun primers are rounded/dome shaped the firing pin was having issues,  when I went to cheddite my issues went away, Winchester work but they are harder. I used up my federal primers with my hammer less shotgun loads, plus cheddite are cheaper.

Rafe 

[Warden Callaway]

On 7/5/2020 at 12:06 AM, Jackaroo, # 29989 said:

Guys, who makes the softest shotgun primers.

My hammer shotgun barely makes a dent in a Fiocchi primer, (no problem with our hammerless  ones) but I had some of those Saloon shells from NZ and they make quite a big dent and work well.

But want to load some black and shoot CC  so looking for a soft primer. 

 

If you've done all of the above and still have problems with shells going off,  try taking the firing pins out and cleaning the whole shebang - holes, pins and springs (if it has springs).  

[The Original Lumpy Gritz]

I would ck for damaged/peened firing pins.

How far will the FP protrude past the breech face?

OLG 

[J.D. Daily]

Cowboy Fastdraw uses 45 Colt Cases with primer pocket that loosely fits 209 primers.  I had issues with Federal primers binding a Ruger Vaquero's cylinder.  I asked for advice from CFD members on the internet.  The responses were to use Rio or Winchester primers.  They are soft enough that the pressure developed by the primer compound burning is enough to flatten the cup against the recoil shield.