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I made a mistake with my 1860


Trigger Mike

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the other day I shot my uberti 1860 army for the first time in years.  I keep a powder measure on the flask based on the gun it is for.  While shooting the wedge got loose and now I can not take the pistol apart past the post the wedge sits in not get the wedge back in.  

 

Today I found the flask I was supposed to have used which means I used the flask for the walker thus over charged the first hole.  The rest I loaded down with the correct charge. I did that because the first ball didn't go in without effort. 

 

Is that pistol likely done for?

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Must been painful to s... a 1860 out

28 minutes ago, Trigger Mike said:

the other day I shit my uberti 1860 army for the first time in years.  I keep a powder measure on the flask based on the gun it is for.  While shooting the wedge got loose and now I can not take the pistol apart past the post the wedge sits in not get the wedge back in.  

 

Today I found the flask I was supposed to have used which means I used the flask for the walker thus over charged the first hole.  The rest I loaded down with the correct charge. I did that because the first ball didn't go in without effort. 

 

Is that pistol likely done for?

 

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Probably the one and only time you’ll $#!t one of those...I’ll bet you were thinking “How’d that get there?”.

 

I would say you definitely messed that gun up. 

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You sh** it for the first time. I bet there won’t be a second time. ;)

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27 minutes ago, Trigger Mike said:

I can't stop laughing.  I meant "shot" it for the first in years and grabbed the fladk for my walker instead of the flask set up for my 1860.  It is hard to type and read on a cell phone 

 

 

Can you post some photos of what's going on?  Is the wedge out?  Is it deformed or have a burr on it?  Were you able to get the cylinder off?

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If you could get the ball seated so the cylinder would turn there should not be a problem, if you were shooting real BP. My C&B's are loaded so the ball almost touches the back of the barrel when it turns and that is a compressed load.

kR

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I finally got the barrel off after soaking it in ballistol and twisting the barrel all around until it came off.  I can put it back on with slight effort and extra effort and twisting 1/8th turn gets it back off.  The wedge refuses to go back in fully so I need a new wedge.

20200606_174401.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Trigger Mike said:

The wedge refuses to go back in fully so I need a new wedge.

 

 

Does it go through both slots in the barrel assembly?  Does it go through the arbor?  How far does it go in?  Is that arbor straight?  

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It goes thru the arbor just not thru the other side of the barrel.  After I posted the pics I could clean it further so now it goes on with a slight twist and comes off straight but due to inertia and the force required to get the barrel off , the cylinder flies off.  

 

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39 minutes ago, Kid Rich said:

Put the wedge into just the arbor if it goes in try it just in the bbl if it goes in then things are not lining up as they should if it will not go in when the gun is assembled.

 

kR

 

Bet there is a small burr in either the arbor or barrel cutout. Do as KR suggested as well as a good inspection and you'll find the problem.

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16 hours ago, Subdeacon Joe said:

 

 

Can you post some photos of what's going on?  Is the wedge out?  Is it deformed or have a burr on it?  Were you able to get the cylinder off?

Oh god please no pictures!

 

But I do hope the wedge comes out easily.

 

My eyes are watering I'm laughing so hard I can't type.

 

Wish I could help with the gun, all I can offer is sympathy for the typo.

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Given your goal and question, couple things aren't quite clear. 

 

First, how much pressure are you applying to the wedge to seat it? Just pushing on it with your thumb? Light taps with plastic or brass mallet? I've yet to come across an out of box C&B that would thumb-seat the wedge. Maybe you just need a small amount of extra judisciouly applied force. (Don't cause any riots.)

 

Second, C&B revolver barrels should be seated straight back onto the frame's alignment pins. You shouldn't need to "rotate" the barrel to seat it, except backing off and trying again for minor adjustments as you get close to pins. 

Is it possible that you have buggered the pin holes on the barrel? If wedge fits bare arbor fine, and wedge fits barrel without arbor fine, maybe the arbor and barrel wedge slots are out of alignment due to alignment pins no longer aligning.

 

Third, is the barrel fully seated to the frame, NO visible gap? My most frequently fired, dis/reassembled MM revolvers need a little tap on the muzzle from the my ever present 1lb plastic hammer to fully seat barrel and frame, before inserting wedge. (I like my Colts tight.)

 

Forth, have you tried seating the wedge without the nearly pointless left-side wedge retaining screw?  Maybe the screw head is bearing against the wedge, making seating difficult. I have several where I removed screw for that reason.

 

Finally, most Colt barrel assemblies are separated by inserting a piece of leather or plastic between cylinder and bullet ram, ram between chambers, pulling down on ram handle. It's easy to bend the ram handle, don't pull too hard. It's easy to score cylinder face, so use cushion.

If stuck, tap it apart. 

First, fully cock and gently let hammer down on nipple. This sets the bolt, keeps the cylinder in place for next step. Over a padded surface, off hand holds the revolver pointing straight down. With other hand, use plastic hammer, rubber mallet, or piece of scrap wood, and tap around the muzzle.  Left, right, up, down, keep changing impact point. Be patient, start gentle, get forceful as need be. Let gravity do the pulling, as you are just providing incremental shaking. Don't smash sight(s) or hit ram, or  retention lug.

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