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Stainless?


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Ruger 10/22 takedown brought into my LGS for intermittent failure to fire.  Disassembled and had to run the receiver, bolt and guide rod through the sonic cleaner twice to get the build up off of them.  Even then, the face of the bolt and the inside of the receiver had to have a little TLC.  I removed the barrel band and forearm, and found rust there.  Wasn't real hard to clean, but it did leave a couple of pits.  

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Stainless is really stain- less       Depends on degree of alloy        GW

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Howdy,

Do the guy a favor and leave off the barrel band.

A little buffing with crocus cloth 'with the grain' will probably

clear up surface damage.

Best

CR

 

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30 minutes ago, G W Wade said:

Stainless is really stain- less       Depends on degree of alloy        GW

+100000.   STAIN-LESS

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I've always tinkered with guns and helped out a number of folks with 22s that quit functioning.   I can't remember the time when the fix was a detailed cleaning.   I'd return and advise to not shoot wax coated bullets and not flood with WD40.

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1 hour ago, Warden Callaway said:

I've always tinkered with guns and helped out a number of folks with 22s that quit functioning.   I can't remember the time when the fix was a detailed cleaning.   I'd return and advise to not shoot wax coated bullets and not flood with WD40.

Don't know what lubrication he was using, but it was obvious too much was going into the receiver and too little on the exterior surface.  Brownells shows appropriate lubrication of the 10/22 is to take a moistened patch and wipe the bolt, the guide rod and handle, and the inside of the receiver down.  Key word is moistened, not dripping.

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3 hours ago, Charlie Harley, #14153 said:

It takes a pretty exotic alloy to be totally rust proof, and even then there can be issues. 

 

Sounds like Ike this one got soaked and not cared for afterwards. 

 

I’d offer $20 to take it off the customer’s hands. ;-)

$20.25!

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German stainless products are marked Rostfrei, translation:Rust Free, which is wrong.

Stain Less is more accurate, but interpreted as, “Hell, you can store this sucker in saltwater till the next time you go to the dump to shoot bottles and rats”...also wrong. :lol:

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Howdy,

At one time Ruger suggested using car wax to protect gun metal.

Yes I real owners manuals.

I even read a couple car owner manuals.

Ive never been able to find a smart fone owner manual....

Best

CR

 

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The stainless steel alloys used for guns & knifes aren't rust proof.  To have the highest resistance requires high percentage of copper & nickle.  For watercraft operated in salt water the only stainless steel that contacts salt water is the prop shaft.  None of the cooling system components containing salt water are stainless steel.  They are typically copper nickle, admiralty brass, monel & titanium in plate & frame heat exchangers.  Cheap stainless, 304, will bleed in salt laden air.  Some stainless alloys are acid etched to remove iron atoms from the surface layers.  You scratch or grind the surface it rusts like it was carbon steel.

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In metal fabrication in the USA, CRS means cold-rolled steel (low-carbongeneral purpose steel).  In the UK, CRS means corrosion resistant steel (same as what we call stainless steel).  It is resistant, not proof, against rust.  Contact of sst and carbon steel, aka cross-contamination, is a common cause of rust on sst.

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18 hours ago, J.D. Daily said:

The stainless steel alloys used for guns & knifes aren't rust proof.  To have the highest resistance requires high percentage of copper & nickle.  For watercraft operated in salt water the only stainless steel that contacts salt water is the prop shaft.  None of the cooling system components containing salt water are stainless steel.  They are typically copper nickle, admiralty brass, monel & titanium in plate & frame heat exchangers.  Cheap stainless, 304, will bleed in salt laden air.  Some stainless alloys are acid etched to remove iron atoms from the surface layers.  You scratch or grind the surface it rusts like it was carbon steel.

 

Sailboats carry a ton of SS parts and pieces, including deck hardware, standing rigging, turnbuckles, lifelines, stanchions, bolts, chain, anchors, winches, etc.  If you sail in saltwater, it all gets exposed to saltwater, mist and salt air.  We use specialized cleaners and waxes in an effort to slow the attack, but some discoloration and pitting is inevitable.  We replace rigging (1x19 and 7x19 SS wire) every couple of years to minimize the risk of hidden failures.  If you keep up with maintenance and replacements, you'll be OK; but none of this stuff is immune to corrosion at some level.

 

LL

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On 5/27/2020 at 10:35 AM, Utah Bob #35998 said:

German stainless products are marked Rostfrei, translation:Rust Free, which is wrong.

Stain Less is more accurate, but interpreted as, “Hell, you can store this sucker in saltwater till the next time you go to the dump to shoot bottles and rats”...also wrong. :lol:

 

Depends on the alloy. Most production bbls are 316 series SS.

300 series is not the corrosion resistant. It is cheap and easy to machine.

17-4PH is about the most rust free. And hardest to machine. 

FWIW: Freedom Arms uses 17-4 in their guns.

OLG 

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Every stainless gun I have is highly magnetic.

 

300 series stainless is non-magnetic.

You sure that stainless barrels are 316?

 

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46 minutes ago, Alpo said:

Every stainless gun I have is highly magnetic.

 

300 series stainless is non-magnetic.

You sure that stainless barrels are 316?

 

 

Most are 316, many bbl makers even say so in their advertising. 

OLG 

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Personally I don’t see much advantage to a stainless gun unless it is kept on a boat.

Even then tainless guns need regular, and accelerated maintenance like any “non-stainless” gun.  More so if the gun is kept on a boat or on shore in a marine environment.

 

Cat Brules

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4 hours ago, Cat Brules said:

Personally I don’t see much advantage to a stainless gun unless it is kept on a boat.

Even then tainless guns need regular, and accelerated maintenance like any “non-stainless” gun.  More so if the gun is kept on a boat or on shore in a marine environment.

 

Cat Brules

 

Far less 'jacket' fouling w/SS.

OLG 

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23 hours ago, Loophole LaRue, SASS #51438 said:

 

Sailboats carry a ton of SS parts and pieces, including deck hardware, standing rigging, turnbuckles, lifelines, stanchions, bolts, chain, anchors, winches, etc.  If you sail in saltwater, it all gets exposed to saltwater, mist and salt air.  We use specialized cleaners and waxes in an effort to slow the attack, but some discoloration and pitting is inevitable.  We replace rigging (1x19 and 7x19 SS wire) every couple of years to minimize the risk of hidden failures.  If you keep up with maintenance and replacements, you'll be OK; but none of this stuff is immune to corrosion at some level.

 

LL

Absolutely true.  It's what you can't see inside the braid or behind that damn chainplate embedded behind that beautiful teak bulkhead that will bite you.  Not worth the chance of being dismasted, especially weeks from shore.  New standing rigging, running rigging and sails are the overhauls of sailing.  Not doing them has a price.

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