Currituck Kid Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 so I have religiously read this post and I think this might be my solution. The question I have is 1 - does anyone have the proper dimensions for a 38-40? Everything I've read is for a 45lc or a 357 2 - before I go down that route does anyone have any other ideas? What is going on is similar to what the link says. In matches my gun has a tendency to jack out live rounds when I'm running fast. I've checked the headspace of my ammo and it's within spec. It doesn't happen every time but it does do it sometimes. Maybe 1 or 2 stages out of a match. The whole gun was taken apart last month for a action job and cleaned and at the next match it continued to demonstrate this frustrating behavior. Thanks for any input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Dimensions for shiming the RH cartridge guide are the same 3 to 7 thousandths greater than the cartridge diameter. So 0.468 to 0.472 between the cartridge guides. You can cut shims out of an inexpensive set of brass feeler gauge blades. I bought mine from Amazon for $1.50 a set. Search for non-magnetic feeler gauge. Buy the video that Nate Kiowa Jones put out about slicking up a 92. He specializes in Rossie's but the mods will apply to your Chiappa as well. Most important is the ramp filed into the LH cartridge guide and the reduced power ejector spring. Next is to try a heavier bullet. I assume this is a new rifle. so one thing to check is that the cartridge guides are correct for your rifle. I had a Rossi 92 in .357 where the location of the cut out for the rim of the cartridge were mis alligned. Had to send it back and they wound up sending me a new rifle. BTW don't hesitate to call NKJ. He is a standup guy and will glagly help you over the phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Did you ck ALL the screws to be sure they are 'tite'? Not uncommon for that right side guide screw to loosen. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Currituck Kid Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 5 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said: Did you ck ALL the screws to be sure they are 'tite'? Not uncommon for that right side guide screw to loosen. OLG Yes everything is tight in the gun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Buy a cheap feeler gauge, then cut the .005 thickness into a shim and mount it between the right side cartridge guide and the rec'r. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Hanger #3720LR Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Cartridge overall length is critical. 38-40 overall length maximum is 1.59". When reloading try to keep as close to the 1.59" but not less than 1.58". Shimming the right side guide will help. The round coming up will touch this guide and cause the round to bounce to the left. This will take the vertical momentum away and let the round settle on the carrier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cypress Sam, SASS #10915 Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 You can also cut shims from an aluminum drink can, like a beer can, using scissors to cut the shim. The aluminum is very thin, around .005” or .006”, just right for shims. I have also used bond typing paper which is a little thinner so you might have to use multiple layers. You might have to use a shim that is a few thousandths thicker in the back or front to get it to feed smoothly. They are cheap though and it is pretty easy to experiment. If I remember right, you can get the right hand cartridge guide out without taking the rest of the gun apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Currituck Kid Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll be sure to check all my ammo as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Keep us updated PLEASE. Use only steel or brass shim stock. Other material can/will compress over time and the issue will reappear. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Currituck Kid Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 I have a lot of free time next week and this weekend. I'll start the process Saturday probably Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patagonia Pete Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 When I had to shim the right guide on my Rossi 92 (to address this problem) I used a "AAA" (auto club) foil bumper sticker. The foil type finish kept it from falling apart (from cleaners etc) and it measured .006 (detached from the paper backing). It was easy to cut little strips and the adhesive helped them stay in place as the guide was reattached ... (as it will squirrel around while you are getting it into position). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go West Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 Check the cartridge stop, too. I bought a '92 with it installed wrong. Load up 20 dummies or so to check the feed at various speeds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe West Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 If it works perfectly until you go full out it's unlikely put together wrong. I do different work than other smiths on 92's, I work the individual firearm until I achieve the results desired by the customer. But I'll share my free advice for what it's worth: don't shim up the cartridge guides too tight, that'll make your problem worse. You need some clearance for the round to slide back on the lifter. With proper spacing in a 92 :generally if rounds come out the top they're too short, too light or both, if you have to juggle the lever to get them in, they're likely too long. The amount of change to overall length needed could be tiny. Sometimes changing the speed that the round is moved back on the lifter is critical but requires machine work. Strive for smooth operation vs jerky movements. The chiappa , rossi, original winchester, and current japanese winchester and the different eras of manufacture within those brands are often different in some ways so don't worry if your perfect load is different from other folks as long as it is safe. Generally the 92 can be made less ammo sensitive with varying degrees of work. I mention smooth operation by the shooter as critical. I believe the 92 type of operation is more sensitive to jerky operation than the 73 or 66 as their carrier captures the round not just heave it upwards where it must slide back in time to be captured by the back of the guides. So before you change anything why not take the free route and examine your operation at speed. I love the 1892. I shoot a 66 or a 92 they are my favourites. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sam, SASS #34718L Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 CK.... There's one more solution that no one else has touched on..... Sell Me the Gun! Then you can put the Cash down on a slick little '73, which is a much better tool for Our Sport anyway. I've been looking for a clone '92 in 38WCF................. Let me know if you're interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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