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Best glue for leather to leather


Bullett Sass 19707

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Tandys (or Tandy’s...?)  probably sells “leather glue,” whatever that is.

 

Anyway, I don’t know where you live, but most larger communities have large hobby stores, such as Michaels.  They probably have what you want.

 

However, if you’re gluing suede-to-suede, and you have some scrap suede pieces, try using the glue on the scrap first.

 

My experience when I tried to glue suede is that the glue bled through, and even in the places it didn’t bleed through, the texture wasn’t the same...consider that.

? Is there a special “suede glue”?  I don’t know.  


You may wish to research this further before you glue the suede.  
If you find some glue, see what the glue directions say.

 

edit:  you may wish to consult with a local shoe repair shop.

 

Cat Brules

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I've often bought Barge Cement at shoe stores.  Good stuff!  Heck... we used to use it to glue VW crankcase halves together*.  ^_^

 

*From John Muir's "How to keep your Volkswagen alive: A manual of step by step procedures for the compleat idiot"  :rolleyes:

 

51Fz5g0hKTL._SX386_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg

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Ah, yes!  The Volkswagen Idiot Book. :wub:

:)


I still advise you, whatever glue you use, to test-glue some scrap pieces of suede to see if it bleeds through.

 

ANOTHER THOUGHT is to do searches on YouTube to see if you can find information there 

 

Cat Brules

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I use DAP (Weldwood) contact cement found in big box hardware stores for my leather work..as does about 70% of the leatherworking population. Follow directions to the "T" about set up and surface time.

With suede, due to its nature, glue may not be the best permanent option. Yes, it is rough for surface area..but its surface is also a bit "sacrificial" i.e.: separates more easily than smooth leather..kind of like cloth that "pills"  Glue will get you by though

 

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I'm still using the old formula Barge sold by the quart. The one "not for sale in Calif" with the yellow and reddish label  Available on line at amazon, I would recommended buying a quart of thinner unless you use quite a bit of glue.  Haven't done a lot of suede to suede. As recommended before try to do a test piece before using it on your project. I've had it bleed and turn stiff, but it still works.

                                    Jasper

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7 hours ago, Lunger Dan said:

I use DAP (Weldwood) contact cement found in big box hardware stores for my leather work..as does about 70% of the leatherworking population. ...

 

 

As a member of the leatherworking population, I'd be interested to know where you came up with your "70%" figure.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Jackalope said:

 

As a member of the leatherworking population, I'd be interested to know where you came up with your "70%" figure.

 

 

Well gee, you caught my unscientific guesstimate from my interaction in leather forums and pages. I acquiesce to your obvious superiority in all things leather related. I will go do penance now. 

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I've been using Barge cement since the 1970s; it's the standard for shoe repair industry.  Until recently, Barge was making Tandy's contact cement.  I think Tandy has now gone to a water-based product.  That said,  any good contact cement should work.

 

I buy Barge by the quart - see the link below:

 

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=barge+cement&crid=1HH7ZD7H87G37&sprefix=barge+%2Caps%2C179&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_6

 

Whenever possible, after gluing, I still like sewing the pieces together. 

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I use the DAP glue to hold pieces of leather together before I sew it, but never needed to glue "permanently" anything that wasn't also going to be sewn or riveted, so I never use the Barge's, plus I find it to be much messier. Are you gluing the pieces suede to suede or slick to slick, with the suede on the outside? How much stress is this part going to have later?

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Thank you all for the good information.   I cant wear boots anymore so I use tall moccasins and they fold over at the heal.   I thought that if I could glue a stiffer leather to the heal that the suede would not run over or fold over as I use them.   I have looked at several you tube and asked around and so far the barge contact seems to be what is recommended.   I do have scrap moccasins and leather that I can experiment with.   I can use slick tanned leather or suede for the job but as you know the moccasins are suede.    Thank You Bullett 19707 

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Bette to use thicker leather and sew it on, the suede bottoms won't last long outside.

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