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Keeping drains moving


Rye Miles #13621

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I just had my drain snaked out in the bathroom sink. Got me thinking what to use to keep it running smooth. So far other than Drano and Liquid Plumber etc. I’ve tried baking soda and vinegar. I’ve heard Coke or Pepsi . I’ve also heard people use coffee grounds!!:o Ya got any home remedies to keep your drain running smoothly ?

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I've been thinking about posting a similar question, for the past several months.

 

Double kitchen sink. How do you clear it?

 

I used a half a bottle of liquid plumber. Let it sit for 10 minutes (like the instructions on the bottle said), then poured an entire tea pot of boiling water down the drain.

 

A week later I did it again, because it's still draining slower than Christmas.

 

That was two weeks ago. It still ain't draining right.

 

Any thoughts gratefully appreciated.

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How to prevent?  In my case it's the wife's long hair and makeup that clogs her sink.  She'd look strange with a shaved head so I'll disconnect and clean the P trap as needed.

 

She doesn't dispose of grease down the kitchen drain so we never have had a problem with the kitchen drain.

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If its hair, etc..... you're on your own.   Snake it or do as Matthew Duncan suggested.

 

If its grease or a soluble type 'stuff', try WD-40.

WD40 is also EXCELLENT in cleaning soap scum from showers and shower doors.

 

..........Widder

 

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Go to Home Depot, Lowes or similar DIY places and rent at sewer machine. Run the snake down the vent pipe on the roof using the spiral looking end. Clean it as far as the snake will go into the pipe. Use water while you are doing it in the same pipe, usually take two people. Don't run the snake so fast that it binds up or gets caught or you could injure yourself. Pull it out while the machine is still running, basically pushing it through the opposite way in the machine. It's nasty, it's disgusting but it's the only way to really clean out the pipes. You should wear gloves but be aware to not get them caught in the "spring" of the snake.

 

Many of the drain problems begin with pouring grease laden water or just plain grease down the drain while using hot water. The hot water only heats up the first couple feet of the drain pipe leaving the rest of the pipe cold. Ever put grease or cooking oil in the fridge? It's the same thing.

 

You can also pull the "P" trap under the sink to clean it out....that's a pain in the ass. They also have the brushes on a long handle with a crank that you stick down the drain and turn. To get out hair and gunk, they work pretty good. 

 

Disposals are one of the worst things ever invented for drains. I just wish that my gal could get used to not having one, I'd take mine out.

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The best remedy that I have found is to buy at the hardware store a small rubber attachment to screw onto the end of a garden hose that will expand like a balloon when the water is turned on.   Get on top of the house and snake the garden hose with the balloon attachment as far down the vent pipe as it will go.  When the balloon expands, it seals the vent pipe and is then a high pressure velocity of water that will knock out hair and soap type clogs.  I had tried everything and finally called a plumber, thinking it would have to be addressed from inside the house.  Little did I know, for less that $10, I could have done it myself after watching him clear in less than 5 minutes...…..

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48 minutes ago, Gracos Kid said:

The best remedy that I have found is to buy at the hardware store a small rubber attachment to screw onto the end of a garden hose that will expand like a balloon when the water is turned on.   Get on top of the house and snake the garden hose with the balloon attachment as far down the vent pipe as it will go.  When the balloon expands, it seals the vent pipe and is then a high pressure velocity of water that will knock out hair and soap type clogs.  I had tried everything and finally called a plumber, thinking it would have to be addressed from inside the house.  Little did I know, for less that $10, I could have done it myself after watching him clear in less than 5 minutes...…..

The problem I had was only the bathroom sink. I finally called a plumber and he snaked it. In doing so he broke the galvanized fitting in the wall that leads down the basement. He replaced it with a new brass fitting. It seems to be fine now but I'd like to know how to keep it draining smoothly. There's no woman here so I don't have any long hair problems and I don't wash my hair in that sink. I also mostly shave my neck and part of my face with a electric razor. (I have a beard) 

 

Another remedy for keeping it running smoothly I heard was Dawn dishwashing liquid!:o It's not for clogged drains now just keeping it running smoothly.

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I pour about 2qts of boiling water down the slow drain and let it 'sit' a few minutes. 

Then I add 2-3 cups  of bleach and let that sit for about 1/2 hr.

Then followed with another 2gts of boiling water. 

Does a good job of clearing stuff out.

OLG 

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How old is your house?  I have found drains in older homes to have a coating of hard material similar to the coating that builds up in galvanized water pipes.  The only cure is to chip it out, and you can only reach so far with hand tools.  It might be time to call in a professional and could get costly.

 

Duffield

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16 minutes ago, Duffield, SASS #23454 said:

How old is your house?  I have found drains in older homes to have a coating of hard material similar to the coating that builds up in galvanized water pipes.  The only cure is to chip it out, and you can only reach so far with hand tools.  It might be time to call in a professional and could get costly.

 

Duffield

50 years old. 

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40 minutes ago, Duffield, SASS #23454 said:

Call a plumber.

 

I did, in my original post I said that! My question was NOT a clogged drain it was HOW do you keep them running smoothly!

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A lot depends on where the clog occurred. In the p-trap under the sink or further downstream?

 

I've had better luck with plastic pipe under the sink than metal. I also switched from bar soap to liquid. Bar soap tends to leave more scum in the lines. And let the water run for 10 or so seconds after you've finished your business. Soapy water laden with whiskers, dirt etc. and left to stand in pipes allows scum to accumulate.

 

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I love Zep drain cleaner available at Lowe's or Home Depot.  Nothing was working to unclog the sink (except running a drain snake) my wife always brushes her hair over.  My suggestion to clean her hair out of the sink every morning, rather than washing it down the drain, got a "frosty" reception.

 

I talked to an older retired plumber who was working at Lowe's.  He pointed me to the Zep drain cleaner.  One his re-occurring jobs as a plumber was at at dog grooming business.  Their drains were always clogged.  He suggested that they run a gallon of the Zep every week and they never had a clogged drain again.  I love the stuff.  I've used it the last 5 years and it has never failed.  I normally get the one for hair because of the "problem" I mentioned earlier, but the one I've put on the link below works well also.  I use the version below on my mother-in-law's kitchen drain.

 

  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Zep-10-Minute-Drain-Opener-Gel-128-fl-oz-Drain-Cleaner/3745753

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This only works for drains that are not totally clogged.

 

About every 3 or 4 months buy 2 pounds of old fashioned lye crystals. If the sink has a stopper be sure to remove it. Run hot water down the drain for a minute or two, turn the water off and put 1 heaping tablespoon of crystals directly in the drain. Cover with a damp rag and wait a minute. Remove the rag and run hot water down the drain for 1 minute. Repeat until you no longer hear the lye attacking organic matter in the drain.

 

Do this to every drain in the house except the toilets. Lye can cause a toilet to crack.  For kitchens with a disposal, don't put lye in the disposal. Put it in the non-disposal drain followed by 1 cup of hot water down the drain and a second cup in the sink with the disposal. After 1 minute run hot water in each sink for 30 seconds.

 

Once all the drains are running good. Go back to the drain that is furtherest from the septic tank or street. Run hot water down the drain while slowly pouring 1/4 pound of lye down the drain. After the lye run hot water for 2 minutes. Most Houses will have 1 or more branches. Repeat for each branch. 

 

I live in a 90+ year old house and the mainline under the house has problems as well as the branch that runs to the kitchen sink.  Since doing this I haven't had to call the plumber back.

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Put hair screen blocks over drains subject to receiving such like showers.   Do not flush paper towels nor baby , facial, and antiseptic wipes!!!   A buddy found his entire lateral lines clogged with all the kleenex his wife and daughter kept flushing.   Avoid harsh chemicals as much as possible.

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51 minutes ago, Whiskey Business said:

Rye asked about how to keep a recently unclogged sink running smoothly. Just one sink. All that lye may not be necessary for his situation.

Thanks Whiskey, don't ya love how carefully some read posts??:lol:

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6 hours ago, Marshal Mo Hare, SASS #45984 said:

A topic of current concern around here. Toilet flushes upstairs and my toilet gurgles. Landlady lived upstairs and does not believe this can be a big problem. Right now there is a drain problem , maybe the whole thing will be fixed, maybe not.

No vent in the drain line or it’s obstructed.  Or septic tank needs maintenance. 

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1 hour ago, Whiskey Business said:

Rye asked about how to keep a recently unclogged sink running smoothly. Just one sink. All that lye may not be necessary for his situation.

 

Au Contraire, The way to keep a sink, or any other plumbing running smoothly is to keep the main line clean. Refer back to my original post on this. I wouldn't lye about it. Remember that the vents on the roof, in most cases, go down into the 2" and then the 4" lines. Keep those cleaned out and most of the slow drain or gurgling drain problems disappear. 

 

I'm not a plumber, but I did drive by at least two Holiday Inn Expresses today.

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40 minutes ago, Whiskey Business said:

Good advice YS. Only tissue gets flushed. 

No offense SD, maybe time to upgrade your plumbing. Check the electrical also. 

 

None taken.

 

If I planned to stay in this house more than 5 years I might consider the second mortgage required to pay for tunneling under the house and replacing all the lines.

 

Electrical was upgraded / replaced when the house was remodeled several years before we bought it. None of the original wiring remains.  Same for the windows. All have been upgraded to double pane except for 3 original stain glass windows at the front of the house.

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I sometimes tend to do something along the lines of an “information dump” when I reply to either a topic or replying to another reply under that topic heading.
 

The various people who read my replies should decide how much of the reply applies to their needs. So, saying too much or not replying directly to the original topic may not help the topic originator much, but it certainly might.  AND, that reply may be “just the thing” for someone else reading the topic and replies.  I doubt the “Topic” Originator” will give it a second thought....just reads it and moves on if that information is of no value to them.

 

I don’t worry about complaints or criticism too much.  I, and everyone else expends time and effort reading, then creating these topics and replies, then, proofing and editing them.  Remember THAT part, please, before criticizing, complaining, or condemning—which isn’t polite.  I am not saying I’m not guilty of some of this stuff, but I try not to.
 

Hasta, pards.

 

Cat Brules

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19 minutes ago, Sedalia Dave said:

 

None taken.

 

If I planned to stay in this house more than 5 years I might consider the second mortgage required to pay for tunneling under the house and replacing all the lines.

 

Electrical was upgraded / replaced when the house was remodeled several years before we bought it. None of the original wiring remains.  Same for the windows. All have been upgraded to double pane except for 3 original stain glass windows at the front of the house.

 

Just concerned about fire hazard. 

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11 hours ago, Cypress Sun said:

 

Au Contraire, The way to keep a sink, or any other plumbing running smoothly is to keep the main line clean. Refer back to my original post on this. I wouldn't lye about it. Remember that the vents on the roof, in most cases, go down into the 2" and then the 4" lines. Keep those cleaned out and most of the slow drain or gurgling drain problems disappear. 

 

I'm not a plumber, but I did drive by at least two Holiday Inn Expresses today.

I had a plumber here and he's never been to a Holiday Inn Express. Never said anything about vents on the roof!:P

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11 minutes ago, Rye Miles #13621 said:

I had a plumber here and he's never been to a Holiday Inn Express. Never said anything about vents on the roof!:P

 

The vents on the roof are just one location to snake out the lines. It's just an easier place to access the main drain lines than a screw on clean out cap that may or may not come off if you can even find it and you're not trying to send a snake through a "P" trap. I don't know how old your house is but in newer houses the roof vents are usually above bathrooms and kitchen sinks. I'm no plumber by any means but over the years I've found that cleaning out the main lines every five years or so keeps the drains moving well. Then again, I'm only dealing with a smaller, 40 year old, one story house. You mentioned a basement. Never thought about that as Florida doesn't have too many houses with basements. 

 

This is what I've rented in the past to clean out drains. It spins the "spring" snake/head around and cleans out the drain as it goes. I never liked the cutter head that is shown and used the tapered spiral head instead. I don't know if they show that. It is more than you were asking in your original post, that's for sure but if you like a smooth draining system, this will keep it that way.

 

YMMV

 

https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Drain-Cleaner-100-X-5-8/ERE/

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9 minutes ago, Cypress Sun said:

 

The vents on the roof are just one location to snake out the lines. It's just an easier place to access the main drain lines than a screw on clean out cap that may or may not come off if you can even find it and you're not trying to send a snake through a "P" trap. I don't know how old your house is but in newer houses the roof vents are usually above bathrooms and kitchen sinks. I'm no plumber by any means 

Cypress ole buddy, I'd go back to whoever told you that and tell em Tennessee said nuh uh.

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1 hour ago, Tennessee williams said:

Cypress ole buddy, I'd go back to whoever told you that and tell em Tennessee said nuh uh.

 

I'd like to tell him but he got killed by a drunk driver about 15 years ago. I'm always wanting to learn the best way to do things so I ask you, where is the best location to "snake" out the drain lines? Inquiring minds has gots ta know.:P

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3 hours ago, Cypress Sun said:

 

The vents on the roof are just one location to snake out the lines. It's just an easier place to access the main drain lines than a screw on clean out cap that may or may not come off if you can even find it and you're not trying to send a snake through a "P" trap. I don't know how old your house is but in newer houses the roof vents are usually above bathrooms and kitchen sinks. 

   The vent stacks you see on the roof are for equalizing pressures from the drain lines and to vent sewer gases and smells from the house. The reason you see them over kitchens and bathrooms is because you need adequate vent space for every place water enters your drain system. While they can be clogged, a properly laid out vent stack getting clogged is rare.

    A common reason for them to get clogged is the use of a Tee at the junction of the vertical and horizontal pipe instead of a Wye. Although the pipes look similar, they have different functions. In the instance a Tee is used, solid matter can splash back and rest on the horizontal portion of the pipe and form a clog over time. When this happens and someone goes onto the roof with a sewer snake to free the clog, they end up poking a hole in the bottom of the Tee and letting water and gross stuff into their crawlspace because a Tee wont allow the snake to make the turn. This is especially the case for homes built prior to that code change.        The best place for a sewer snake to enter a line is at the cleanout that was put there for that specific reason. If you dont have one or cant find it under the house, add one. I put a cleanout in my tightline every 75 feet all the way to my field lines.

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3 hours ago, Cypress Sun said:

 

The vents on the roof are just one location to snake out the lines. It's just an easier place to access the main drain lines than a screw on clean out cap that may or may not come off if you can even find it and you're not trying to send a snake through a "P" trap. I don't know how old your house is but in newer houses the roof vents are usually above bathrooms and kitchen sinks. I'm no plumber by any means but over the years I've found that cleaning out the main lines every five years or so keeps the drains moving well. Then again, I'm only dealing with a smaller, 40 year old, one story house. You mentioned a basement. Never thought about that as Florida doesn't have too many houses with basements. 

 

This is what I've rented in the past to clean out drains. It spins the "spring" snake/head around and cleans out the drain as it goes. I never liked the cutter head that is shown and used the tapered spiral head instead. I don't know if they show that. It is more than you were asking in your original post, that's for sure but if you like a smooth draining system, this will keep it that way.

 

YMMV

 

https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Drain-Cleaner-100-X-5-8/ERE/

No offense but Thanks but I’ll stick with what my plumber says.;)

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