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Cholla

Repairing a US Revolver Cylinder Issue

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I purchased a small US Revolver, made by Iver Johnson in .32 S&W. It is a break-top style revolver and the cylinder has a few threads that allows it to screw into place on the barrel. In one spot the threads are worn enough to allow the cylinder to pop out when opened. I suspect there isn't an easy way to put material back on the threads. Have any of you had to deal with something like this?

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Isn't the cylinder supposed to be retained by a stop on the top strap just like with S&W Model 3s? What you're looking at are probably just grease grooves.

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Look for crud under the release lever that keeps it from seating closed when released.

May well be time for a heavy duty flushing with brake cleaner.

OLG 

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In the videos I have watched and from my tinkering with it, the cylinder screws in place using threads on the barrel and on the cylinder. Once the cylinder threads past the threads into the rebated area (green arrow) it can spin free until pulled backwards and unthreaded. The threads in one spot are wore down so if the revolver is opened while it is in the spot, the cylinder can pop out. I do not see anything on the release lever that would prevent it from coming off.

IMG_1333.JPG

Edited by Cholla

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I recently got an Iver Johnson .32 Safety Hammerless 3rd Model in about 95% mechanical condition (75-80% finish). (I've had dozens of them over the years because they are steam engine tough and I probably paid less than a buck for the first few I bought.) IJ pistols were alleged to be as tough as the bigger name guns, but they used less care in the appearance.  The idea was to make small carry guns that everyone could afford and still get a quality piece.

 

Here's what I got from taking mine apart: when you open the barrel latch it will snap back forward at the end of the ejection cycle.  Hold the latch open until it's about 30 degrees up, not letting it snap closed, and pull the cylinder to the rear while rotating it counter-clockwise.   It's under spring tension, but you won't see the spring.  I think it's inside the  cylinder shaft, but I'm not sure.  Comes right off and goes back on by reversing that action.  HOLD THE LATCH LEVER UP both taking it off and putting it back on.  You will not see any threads going either way.

 

It's as awkward as a baby duck in snowshoes but it's the only way I've found that works.

 

BTW: if yours is a third model they were okayed for smokeless powder, but the earlier models were BP only. 

 

 

BTW2: the trigger pull is amazingly hard and is one of the safety feature along with their patented "Hammer the hammer" system.  It's claimed they could be carried with all five chambers loaded......but I don't have the guts to try it. 

 

Have fun. My little popper shoots well but because of the terrible trigger pull I can't  hit anything much smaller that a school bus at 30 yards.

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2 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Can you expand the front of the bushing with tapered rod?

OLG 

This sounds do-able. I will let you know my results when I get a chance to try it.

 

Edit: OLG is the man. I used a tapered punch to slightly expand the threaded area and it worked. Gotta love it when a plan comes together. Now all I have to do is replace the trigger reset spring.

Edited by Cholla
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They sound like belly guns.  Made to be pointed, not aimed.

 

Cat Brules

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