Refinishing 1873 stock...

[Croc Holiday]

I’m in the process of refinishing the stock on my Uberti 1873.  I’m hoping for something darker than the natural tones.  I have some Minwax dark walnut stain I tend to like but I’m not sure how well it will jive with the reddish tone of the wood.  There’s really no hidden spot for me to test it.  Has anyone else used a darker stain to refinish their stock?

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

Yep.   Dark Walnut will work on the Uberti  Italian walnut.

The red color of the factory stock is just stain - not the wood.    But it's under a poly urethane varnish top coat, so that has to come off also.   So, most pards strip the existing stain with a good gel stripper.  I like Crown TuffStrip myself.   Others also use the orange based CitriStrip type removers

 

Don't Sand!   The factory fits the stocks pretty closely to the metal, and heavy sanding drops the walnut  below the metal surface, which is pretty evident.  

Strip by using a plastic "scraper" and brushes.  Rinse off any chemical remains using the solvent that the stripper container specifies.    Let dry.

 

Steam out any dents you want to raise.  Dry, dewhisker with plastic scrubbie pads.  If you must sand, use about 180 grain paper and work very lightly.

 

Then stain.   I use Minwax oil type stain due to their wide color ranges and good penetration.  I like a "touch" of red in a stock, so I put a little "redwood" or "mediterranean Red" in the cup with Walnut stain, and wipe that on.  Let dry and finish with your favorite oil, varnish, etc.  I like TruOil brand linseed for it's quicker drying.  Hand rub that in and apply 3+ coats to fill the pores and get to a surface finish that is solid.

 

Good  luck, GJ

 

 

[Juan Solo]

I refinish mine similar to the above. I use citristrip, and a plastic scraper to get the poly off, and then stain it with a couple of the different walnuts mixed together to get the color i like. I also use tru-oil to finish although i sand the first 2 coats with 600 grit to fill the grain and then finish as usual.

[Croc Holiday]

I think my rifle is older.  The original stain was pretty faded and the wood would soak up Ballistol and BP drippings when I cleaned (not easy to get out either).  I used a gel stripper / thinner.  Not sure which, it was what I had but it got the bulk of what little finish was left on it.  I did end up sanding it some.  The stock wasn't really fitted all that well.  Most of it sat proud of the frame so a little sanding was ok and made for a more flush fit.   I'm up to staining and got nervous when I didn't have a tucked away piece to test on haha.  I was thinking on the extra measure of adding a clear matte or semi gloss finish to it as well.  Worth doing or will the Minwax seal the wood enough to keep the Ballistol and BP at bay?

[Croc Holiday]

Btw...  Juan Solo...  I love that alias.

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

22 minutes ago, Croc Holiday said:

I was thinking on the extra measure of adding a clear matte or semi gloss finish to it as well.  Worth doing or will the Minwax seal the wood enough

 

No, stains of any type will not provide protection!  You have to finish with something.

 

Oils - modified boiled linseed oils like TruOil or LinSpeed - the conventional finish for guns before 1950s.  Very easy to touch up a ding, scratch or rub mark.  Depending upon how you final-sand or polish an oil finish, you can get matte, semigloss or gloss shine.   You won't like it if you oil until you get a mirror finish, at least not past the first ride in a gun cart at a match.

Varnishes - dries faster, more fragile, will chip and ding and requires more work to touch up

Polyurethane modified varnishes, spar varnish, outdoor varnish - hard finish, withstands weather best, but just about has to be removed and refinished when it gets ragged to look nice.  Sprayed on then baked by factory arms makers now when they actually provide wood furniture (rather than plastic).

 

Most cowboys use the traditional oils since we ding up guns a lot and some of us will renew the finish periodically.

 

BTW - I have never found the combined stain/ varnish finish stuff to be something I want on a fine gun.

 

Good luck, GJ

[Croc Holiday]

Thanks GJ!  Really good info.  I need some TruOil anyway for the bass guitar neck I’m finishing at the same time .  I’ll nab some of that.  

[Pee Wee #15785]

Here is instruction from a guy that knew what he was doing.  Old members may remember this.

 

 

Longshot Logan

INSTRUCTIONS FOR REFINISHING A UBERTI STOCK. 

I have been refinishing gunstocks for 30 years on and off. Over the past several years I have done quite a few Uberti rifles and handgun grips to get the red sprayed finish off. Here is the method I use all the time for great results. List of items needed.

1.) Quart of Orange Citristrip gel. Available at most larger Hardware stores.

2.) 00 Steel wool and 0000 steel wool.

3.) Minwax Oil Base stain in your choice of color.

4.) 1 paint stick.

5.) Formby's Tung Oil, either high or low gloss.

6.) Old cotton Tee shirt.

7.) Steam Iron.

8.) 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper.

9.) Rubber disposable gloves.

10) Disposable foam brush.

11) Cheap white 1 inch bristle brush

12) Old Newspapers.

13) Old toothbrush (if checkered)

 

On a 73 - To remove the fore-stock, you first have to remove the two screws that hold the fore end cap on, and then remove the block that the screws mount to from it's dovetail. Then tap out the pin in the mag tube mounting block on the end of the barrel (this locks the mag tube in place). Slide the mag tube forward and out, then the block out of the dovetail. The fore end will then slide off. You may be able to remove the fore end without removing the block at the end of the barrel by just sliding the mag tube forward enough to drop off the fore end.

The rifle should be disassembled and the wood placed aside on a good work bench free of debris and clutter. Lay out a piece of newspaper and lay the forearm and butt stock down. Apply the Citristrip with the bristle brush liberally ( as thick as you can ) to both pieces covering the sides as much as you can. Now forget about it for about 40 minutes minimum. This stuff stays active for 24 hours so you could even put it on and leave it for a long time.

 

This wood now will be mostly free of the finish where you applied the citristrip ( It smells nice so you wife won't kill you ) Use the paint stick wearing the rubber gloves and scrape the finish off. it won't all come off the first time and will need to be repeated. The 00 Steel wool is excellent for taking the finish off after scraping. Change the newspaper and lay the wood down again and do another area. You will go through a few pieces of newspaper before your done. As you go follow the same routine with the paint stick and steel wool. Once the wood is bare and clean you can apply one more coat of the citristrip, let it sit a few minutes and then wipe it off following with a good rub down with the 0000 (Extra fine steel wool). You will be amazed at the results.

 

If the stocks are checkered the old toothbrush works well taking the finish out of the checkering. Now to look over the stock for damage. If there are actual gouges where the wood grain is cut you will have to decide if sanding them out is an option. If there are dents (most likely) then move onto the next step. With the flat iron set hot enough to produce steam (no hotter) take a 6 inch piece of the old tee shirt and soak it in water and squeeze it out. Fold it over a couple of time and place it over the dent. Put the steam iron over it and you will see what happens. The water in the cotton is forced into the wood grain and raises the dent out of the wood. Repeat until it's all out. This take very little time. Once you are happy with your work take it to the kitchen and quickly run the stock under water and pat it quickly to get the excess water off it. Now hold it about two feet over the stove burner constantly moving it until dry. You will feel whiskers all over. These are the end grains of the wood. Use the 400 grit paper very lightly to knock them off followed by a good rub down with 0000 steel wool. The stock should now be ready for final finishing. Use the Stain with the foam brush applying it heavy and letting it sit. After a few minutes wipe the excess off and see if that is the color you want. Reapply for a darker finish. When it looks nice let it dry 24 hours, I know this part will kill you but it is important. When dry use the 0000 steel wool lightly and wipe down with a clean cloth. To apply the Tung oil follow the labels directions. the first few coats take the longest to dry but after that you can put 2 or 3 coats on in one day. I use a piece of the old cotton tee shirt folded into a 2 inch square and make long runs following the grain to apply the finish. Don't apply this finish in anything but thin coats. I usually put 10-12 coats. After every couple of coats (when dry) go over it with 0000 steel wool. I have a wood dowel to hold the forearm and a wood dowel to hold the stock and have them in a 2x4 so the pieces stand up to dry. In a weekend you can get the Uberti to look like a million dollars. Be careful if you use sandpaper to stay away from the stock' sharp edges )the parts that attach or come up to metal) if you over sand these areas the job will look lousy. This procedure take patience but well worth the end results.

If you can get the exact items I described you will be set. To get the high gloss finish just end with a coat of tung oil. To get the low gloss after several layers and when dry just go slowly and steel wool with 0000 followed by furniture polish. This finish can be touched up easily. Longshot Logan

 

 

[Yusta B.]

7 hours ago, Croc Holiday said:

Btw...  Juan Solo...  I love that alias.

 

Got a fella here goes by Juan Tu Many .......

[Croc Holiday]

5 hours ago, Yusta B. said:

 

Got a fella here goes by Juan Tu Many .......

that’s awesome too haha

[Cowboy Junky]

My first 73 I hated the Uberti red so I stripped it down beat it with a chain and took off some of the blue with steel wool. Back then they were $700 bucks...…...lol. I'm 90% sure I used minwax dark walnut and stain poly. 

 

Maybe I'll look for that stain & chain. 

[Croc Holiday]

8 hours ago, Cowboy Junky said:

My first 73 I hated the Uberti red so I stripped it down beat it with a chain and took off some of the blue with steel wool. Back then they were $700 bucks...…...lol. I'm 90% sure I used minwax dark walnut and stain poly. 

 

Maybe I'll look for that stain & chain. 

 

 

I stained it last night.  It's pretty close to that color so I think you're right.  I like it waaaaay better than the red and even better than the dirty honey, yellow grey faded stock mine had haha.  Getting TruOil today so I can seal it when I get home.  I'll eventually make a butt cover for it like you're sporting.  I'll give you $750 for it

["Big Boston"]

Minwax "Red Chestnut" is supposed to duplicate the appearance of the wood on Winchesters from back in the day. I have tried it and I like the look. I does darken the wood. I don't notice much "Red".