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1894 CB Limited JM Marlin with loose magazine tube...


jerdog3

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Ok, I have to say that you guys are the best!  I am blown away by the positive and helpful feedback!  I will take some pics and upload them Friday when I pick it up.  I was thinking of trying to get it "restored" back to how the factory made it, but do you guys really think shims will be enough?  Is that kinda the perfect mix between temp fix and permanent?  If that will keep is snug, all I have to do is check it now and again when shooting correct?  If I do use a shim, what kind would I need that won't cause rust?  I was told to beware of rust that I can't seen forming between the mag tube and the barrel. 

Thanks again, and sorry for all the dumb questions.  But this beauty will be in my family long after I've left this earth!  Haha.

jerdog3

p.s. If you guys are a good representation of the caliber of person I'm likely to find in SASS, I cannot wait to have a legitimate SASS# under my name!

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If it’s shimmed well enough it won’t go anywhere.   My 97 has shims under the barrel band, I just get a drop of oil to them whenever I’m cleaning the shotgun (stayin rust free on it’s second decade with me).

 

If you want to avoid rust, don’t use tin or steel for your shim material.

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39 minutes ago, WOLFY said:

If it’s shimmed well enough it won’t go anywhere.   My 97 has shims under the barrel band, I just get a drop of oil to them whenever I’m cleaning the shotgun (stayin rust free on it’s second decade with me).

 

If you want to avoid rust, don’t use tin or steel for your shim material.

Only two decades rust free?  Give it some time before you rush to judgment!  Haha.  OK, that might be a good option.  Where does one buy shims?  Is that actually what they are called if I go to a hardware store?

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Yes, minimize or prevent rust by using a BRASS shim.  Brass shim stock comes in various “gauges” or thicknesses.  Get a few square inches of 3 or 4 different THIN thicknesses to have on hand for such things.  You don’t need a lot; just get enough so if you make a mistake you’ll still have enough.  

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Jerdog, I have an old Marlin cowboy.  

 

I can cut you a couple brass shims to fit.  Try the thinner one first.  Are we sure it’s where the mount slides into the under-barrel dovetail?

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9 minutes ago, WOLFY said:

Jerdog, I have an old Marlin cowboy.  

 

I can cut you a couple brass shims to fit.  Try the thinner one first.  Are we sure it’s where the mount slides into the under-barrel dovetail?

I'm blown away by your generosity!  Let me pick up the rifle on Friday, and I will take a bunch of pics.  I will also hug it and kiss it and...well I'll leave the rest to your imagination, but I can't tell you boys how excited I am to finally own this rifle!  I'll send pics and you boys can tell me what you think.

Thanks again!  The help you are giving me is so much more than I expected!

jerdog3

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I finally picked up my Marlin!  That 10 day wait seemed like a lot longer to me!  Haha.  Is that a California thing, or do you guys have a 10 day wait too?

Anyway, I've attached the pics of how far left and right my magazine tube can slide around in the dovetail cutout under the barrel.  There is almost no friction, and I think the only thing holding it in is whatever is holding it under the wood hand guard.  

So I have heard a ton of great ideas to fix it.  Brass shims, green loctite, red loctite, spot welding, electrical tape (I don't like that one so much!  Haha).

So now that you guys can see it, what do you think?  But I also have a few questions, that Marlin won't answer for some reason.

 

1. how was it originaly attached?  Was it only friction and the guy who sold it to me filed it down?

2. Do I need to remove this mag tube often for things like cleaning, or general maintenance so permanently attaching it is a bad idea?

3. Isn't there supposed to be a "J" in front of that "M" in the first picture?

4. Do I ask too many question?  Haha.

 

If you're not going to answer all my question, don't answer the fourth!  Haha.

 

Thank you all again!  I really don't want to mess this gun up by trying to just have my brother pick up a 12 pack and see what he can do.  Haha.

Hope you're enjoying your weekend!

jerdog3

 

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It's a JM.

Slide that mount over like you show in that picture a put a big drop of #271 red Loctite on the flat.

Slide back into position and wipe off excess.

Place rifle muzzle down, in your warmest room for 24hrs.

Have fun---

OLG 

 

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Got into this thread a bit late. Sorry if I repeat others wiser than me who’ve already posted. Red Loctite is a wonderful thing. For screws. Threaded parts. As long as they are not subjected to high heat. Heat is what you use to defeat most Loctite.  Like several others here, I’d suggest the “peening” method of tightening up the dovetail. And just to be clear on the use of Red Loctite, here’s the story from Loctite:

Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners.

The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

 

Hope this works out for you!

 

Curly Strait

 

 

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Thank you boys, but if I can't figure out how to restore it to its original factory settings (sorry I work on computers and that's how we talk.  Haha) I think I'm going to go with the least intrusive, and easiest to revers, corse of action and use brass shims.  Unless anyone know how it came from the factory and can suggest how I can do that, but not even Marlin customer service will give me that info.  Like its a national secret or something!  Haha.

Thanks everyone!

jerdog3

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From the factory- it's a interference press fit.

Had the same thing happen on my 24" bbl, 44 Cowboy that you are deal'n with now.

Did the Loctite thing, and no issues in the last 12+ yrs of use.

You can get the Loctite from automotive parts house and home improvement stores.

Don't over think this......

Have you test cycled live ammo in this rifle?

Do NOT use semi-wadcutter shape bullets.

Most M94's won't feed'em without tuning the action's timing.

BTW, store the Loctite in your refrigerator when not in use.

OLG 

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48 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

From the factory- it's a interference press fit.

Had the same thing happen on my 24" bbl, 44 Cowboy that you are deal'n with now.

Did the Loctite thing, and no issues in the last 12+ yrs of use.

You can get the Loctite from automotive parts house and home improvement stores.

Don't over think this......

Have you test cycled live ammo in this rifle?

Do NOT use semi-wadcutter shape bullets.

Most M94's won't feed'em without tuning the action's timing.

BTW, store the Loctite in your refrigerator when not in use.

OLG 

Great info!  My only hesitation to using the Loctite, or any other permanent / semi permanent path, is that I don't know when / if I would need to take the mag tube off.  I'm guessing that's not a normal cleaning procedure, but is it a yearly thing?

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55 minutes ago, jerdog3 said:

Great info!  My only hesitation to using the Loctite, or any other permanent / semi permanent path, is that I don't know when / if I would need to take the mag tube off.  I'm guessing that's not a normal cleaning procedure, but is it a yearly thing?

 

There's no reason to ever remove that post from the bbl.

The mag tube has enough flex/spring that you can lift it off the post after you loosen the forend.

What ammo will you use? Have you test cycled this ammo?

OLG 

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If there is no reason to remove the barrel, then I don't mind using something hard to remove.

 

Well, I tested 6 .38 spl. snap caps.  They cycled fine.  I plan to shoot Geco 158 GR FMJ (it was on sale), but didn't want to shoot anything until I get the barrel figured out, and I don't know when I will have the time anyway.  But hopefully soon!!!

Thank you OLG!

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I would like to hear how the fix goes.

Don't trust snap caps. 

Cycle test the ammo you plan to shoot.

I have seen many M94's that wouldn't cycle .38 Special worth a dang.

Then feed 357 Mag ammo all day long. And visa-versa.....

You should check out the Marlin Owners Forum. 

BTW, you can NOT use FMJ ammo if you plan to shoot SASS.

OLG 

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On 2/9/2020 at 8:08 PM, Captain Curly Strait said:

Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners

It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

Curly Strait


Note the above highlighted text: it says to remove red Loctite you must heat it to 500° F.
I would be careful about torch-heating set-up Loctite on firearms to remove it.  Heating above about 400° F can affect, or begin to affect, the heat-treat of the steel.

Cat Brules

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12 minutes ago, Cat Brules said:


Note the above highlighted text: it says to remove red Loctite you must heat it to 500° F.
I would be careful about torch-heating set-up Loctite on firearms to remove it.  Heating above about 400° F can affect, or begin to affect, the heat-treat of the steel.

Cat Brules

Back to brass shims!  Haha.  Thank you!

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You pick up critical and valid information where you find it.

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If I want to go the rout of brass shims do I just cut a small strip and insert between the dovetail cutout and the mag tube insert and add a drop of oil to make sure there's no rust?
I've never "jerry rigged" one of my guns before. Haha.

Also, is this the correct kind to use:

 

K&S Precision Metals 258 Assorted Brass Sheet, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, and 0.005 Shim, 4" Width x 10" Length, 6 pcs per Box, Made in USA


Thanks again!
jerdog3

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3 hours ago, jerdog3 said:

If I want to go the rout of brass shims do I just cut a small strip and insert between the dovetail cutout and the mag tube insert and add a drop of oil to make sure there's no rust?
I've never "jerry rigged" one of my guns before. Haha.

Also, is this the correct kind to use:

 

K&S Precision Metals 258 Assorted Brass Sheet, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, and 0.005 Shim, 4" Width x 10" Length, 6 pcs per Box, Made in USA


Thanks again!
jerdog3

That assortment should work just fine -- probably for the next 300 guns !!  :D

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On 2/11/2020 at 8:38 AM, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Acetone will remove/soften/weakenLoctite.

OLG 

Acetone WILL NOT remove/soften/weaken Loctite 271.  Please don’t trust my 23 years of working for manufacturer’s in the firearms industry. Including for Marlin.  Ask LocTite. Don’t take anyone’s word for it. Ask Marlin. The proper “home-solution” is either “peening” the dovetail, or replacing the part which may be undersized. It’s also possible the dovetail cut is oversized, as these parts are friction fit. Min/Max specifications being what they are include the possibility that the dovetail is Max, and the part is Min. Yes it goes together and appears to pass QC, and it might work just fine. But since it’s your issue and you’re the only one who needs this resolved, Loctite 271 will not solve the problem, nor is it removed/softened/or weakened by acetone. 
 

Just trying to help you. Don’t take my word for it. Look it up. Contact Loctite. Or Marlin. Bottom line is it can be remedied to your satisfaction. It’s a great gun. 
 

Best Wishes, 

 

Captain Curly Strait. 

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CCS, respectfully-over the years I have loosened many fasteners and nuts by soaking in Acetone for a period of time. On stubborn ones I would alternate with cutting oil.

I have also done the same with warmed diesel fuel.

50/50 mix of diesel and automatic tranny fluid(Dex/Mercon)in a ultrasonic cleaner works very well on smaller assemblys.

OLG 

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Well OLG,

 

No offense intended, but here’s what Loctite has to say, confirming what I already knew from years of experience in this industry. But don’t take my word for it. 
 

Dear Curly, 

Thank you for e-mailing Henkel Corporation. We appreciate your interest in our products.

Acetone will not soften Loctite 271.  Soaking in methylene chloride is required along with mechanical abrasion once adhesive is softened.

For questions, comments or suggestions, please feel free to call us at (800) 624-7767, Monday through Friday, between the hours of 9:00 a.m.and 4:00 p.m. Eastern Time; or visit us on the Web at www.loctiteproducts.com, www.ositough.com or www.lepageproducts.com.

Thank you for your inquiry. I hope you find this information helpful.

Sincerely,

Consumer Relations Representative
Henkel Corporation

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20 minutes ago, Captain Curly Strait said:

Well OLG,

 

No offense intended, but here’s what Loctite has to say, confirming what I already knew from years of experience in this industry. But don’t take my word for it. 
 

Dear Curly, 

Thank you for e-mailing Henkel Corporation. We appreciate your interest in our products.

Acetone will not soften Loctite 271.  Soaking in methylene chloride is required along with mechanical abrasion once adhesive is softu
For questions, comments or suggestions, please feel free to call us at (800) 624-7767, Monday through Friday, between the hours of 9:00 a.m.and 4:00 p.m. Eastern Time; or visit us on the Web at www.loctiteproducts.com, www.ositough.com or www.lepageproducts.com.

Thank you for your inquiry. I hope you find this information helpful.

Sincerely,

Consumer Relations Representative
Henkel Corporation

That has been their standard comment for many years.

Even before Henkel bought the company in '97.

I know what has worked for me......;)

OLG 

 

 

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