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Cypress Sun

Has Anyone Used Evapo-rust Rust Remover

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In another thread, DiResta and the "73 started by Hardpan, he uses a product called Evapo-rust. He submerses a completely rusted up '73 in it for a undetermined amount of time. When he takes it out, the rust basically comes right off with a bronzed hand brush but it turns the metal "white" and seems to have stripped any blueing left off it.

 

Some time ago, I picked up a solid frame '97 for cheap to redo as a project gun. It was pretty rusty (no where near the one in the DiResta video) but once I got it apart, the internals/barrel/mag tube/etc were in great shape. The exterior is really the only bad part about the gun except for the stock has a big chunk out of it where someone dropped it.

 

Has anyone tried this product on a gun? What did it do to the receiver/barrel interior finish? Were you happy with the product? Would you use it again?

 

Thanks for any replies. 

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I have used it on car parts.  It will remove the rust and leave the metal pretty nice and ready for further cleaning.  I have no doubt it will strip blue. Its a nice product, but a little slow.  Phosphoric acid will work also, and it is faster and cheaper in my experience, but a bit more irritating to handle

 

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Vinegar works too but it takes a while.  I have also seen videos of people using tomato juice.  Anything with a decent acid content.

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Not a good applicable reply to the op (sorry 'bout that).  My Go-Too has been "Rust Free" from the Boshield folks.  Works a treat.  Discovered it at the same time I Discovered Boshield.

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That's one of the problems. Don't want to get rid of the blueing that's left, just want to get rid of the rust.

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2 minutes ago, Cypress Sun said:

That's one of the problems. Don't want to get rid of the blueing that's left, just want to get rid of the rust.

Remember that Blueing is a form of rust.

Iron oxide (rust) is FE2O3

Bluing is a FE3O4

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1 minute ago, Ace_of_Hearts said:

Remember that Blueing is a form of rust.

Iron oxide (rust) is FE2O3

Bluing is a FE3O4

 

I didn't fare so well in chemistry. Even back then, schools didn't like it much when your "experiments" were explosive in nature.:ph34r:

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Best thing is steel wool, oil and elbow grease.  Won’t remove blue.

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 Whatever is left of the bluing  won’t be pretty anyway. Just strip the entire gun.   Disassemble it down completely.  Detail clean it with steel wool bronze wool and other cleaning products,  reassemble it, then  disassemble it again and re-blue the gun. The cost of having it  re-blued  professionally is  probably more than you should pay with an old gun like that. Just use a cold blue and see how that works. Then  reassemble it and  go shoot it. That is pretty much what I would do, anyway. You could always change your mind later and have it professionally blued.

 

Cat Brules.

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I hate cold blue!  If mechanical means of rust removal are acceptable, light oil along with a chore boy pad does a great job without removing blue.  I prefer age on an old gun to perfection

 

 

 

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17 hours ago, Cypress Sam, SASS #10915 said:

Best thing is steel wool, oil and elbow grease.  Won’t remove blue.

 

Thanks Dad. I saw the other thread and thought "Hey, if it won't take the rest of the blueing off, it'll be a lot easier". 

 

Are you going to Ruskin on Sunday?

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1 hour ago, J. Mark Flint #31954 LIFE said:

I hate cold blue!  If mechanical means of rust removal are acceptable, light oil along with a chore boy pad does a great job without removing blue.  I prefer age on an old gun to perfection

 

 

 

 

I'm with you there J. Mark.  I'd rather use a black sharpie than cold blue. I'll try it the old fashioned way........elbow grease with a beer chaser.

 

Thanks to all who replied.

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Will it harm nickel plating?

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I made a mistake of trying to remove some spot rust with phosphoric acid years ago on a blued shotgun barrel. Boy, did I mess that up so I stripped the bluing and cold blued it. What an ugly mess. I have seen Parkerized barrels that looked better.

 

So, don’t try rust remover and don’t try cold blue. They suck. ;)

 

When I have had surface rust on guns I use “0000” Steel Wool and WD-40. Liberal amounts of WD-40. It removes the rust, leaves much of the blue and leaves a nice patina. 
I did have a Winchester 94 that was covered in rust (long angry story) so I decided to have it Cerakoted. That’s an option if the gun is used for hunting, range, truck gun, knock around use...

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6 hours ago, MAYOBARD SASS #13025L said:

Will it harm nickel plating?

 

From what I've read, it won't. That said, I don't think that I would trust it to NOT harm nickel plating or any other type of plating.

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There is a product called a Frontier pad. Looks like really course steel wool. But it is stainless steel. Those pads and WD40 work well with liberal amounts of elbow grease. Doesn’t hurt the existing blueing. 

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Sun, I’m planning to go to Ruskin Sunday.  See you there.

 

For blueing small parts or small areas, I find that Oxpho-blue from Brownells does a good job.  It actually reacts with the metal, not just color it like cold blue.

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When using pads of steel wool or even chore boys, you do need to be careful to turn the pad to a fresh area often and not over use a pad. The embedded rust in the pad will scratch and remove finish.

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I've had pretty good results with cold blueing using "Oxpho Blue" as well.

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I've had very good outcomes using Birchwood Casey "Perma Blue."  :)

 

Mebbe I'm doing something wrong....  :huh:

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31 minutes ago, Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967 said:

I've had very good outcomes using Birchwood Casey "Perma Blue."  :)

 

Mebbe I'm doing something wrong....  :huh:

 

Perzicktly!  If it actually works, better check the directions again!  “Lesee now...”

 

Cat Brules

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Howdy,

Our good pard  Eightbits has some info on blue on the site ktgunsmith.com.

Best

CR

 

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