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Any electricians out there?


Alpo

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My bathroom wall switch. From left, room light, shower light, heat lamp and exhaust fan.

IMG_20200115_144821.thumb.jpg.7aed55de531f92b8fd1d2b57f89154ce.jpg

 

Left hand don't work. The other three still do. And I checked - the light bulbs still work.

 

My logic says if I take the faceplate off and remove that left hand switch and put a new switch in its place, I should once again have lights in the bathroom.

 

Figgered before I started playing with electricity and attempting to electrocute myself, I would ask someone that does this for a living. Should it be that simple? Or am I overlooking something quite obvious to people that know what the hell they're doing?

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It would appear to be that simple.  There is always the outside possibility that the light fixture itself is shot but if this is the primary light used, the switch is most likely toast.  Easy peasy to replace.  I'm not an electrician but I have replaced many switches, fixtures and even wired my own sheds.  Not rocket science.

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Even if you shock yourself it’s not much but a tingle....one time I had to do it twice before I realized what it was.  An inexpensive fluke can be your friend if you want to shut off breakers and such and go about it safely.  

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30 minutes ago, Alpo said:

My bathroom wall switch. From left, room light, shower light, heat lamp and exhaust fan.

IMG_20200115_144821.thumb.jpg.7aed55de531f92b8fd1d2b57f89154ce.jpg

 

Left hand don't work. The other three still do. And I checked - the light bulbs still work.

 

My logic says if I take the faceplate off and remove that left hand switch and put a new switch in its place, I should once again have lights in the bathroom.

 

Figgered before I started playing with electricity and attempting to electrocute myself, I would ask someone that does this for a living. Should it be that simple? Or am I overlooking something quite obvious to people that know what the hell they're doing?

 

Is the room light a fluorescent? If so, it is probably the lamps or ballast. If those are Slater switches, circa 1980's, it could be a bad switch. Switches, other than Slater of that period, can go bad. I can walk you through it if it isn't a flo. light or even if it is. Changing a switch or ballast isn't rocket science but electricity can and will kill you if you get crossed up with the power on. Let me know.

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Switches are the easy inexpensive fix.  For a few bucks and a few minutes you can determine for certain that it isn't the switch, if you dont have a good multimeter to check things with.

 

Others have said it, but it is worth repeating.... turn off the breaker.

 

 

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1 minute ago, Alpo said:

Pretty sure that's a NO. B)

IMG_20200115_153517.jpg

 

Okay, make sure that the bulbs are good, If so get what is called a Single Pole switch. Doesn't have to be a $5.00 switch, a $1.00 one from Home Depot or the like will do. If you would like help via phone, let me know and we can exchange #'s. It's really an easy change out and better than paying an electrician $100.00 to do it.

Heck, worthless could do it if he had opposable thumbs.

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And while on the subject of lights -- though it still works now, I'm sure that eventually the bulb will blow in the shower.

 

How in the heck did he DO YOU get to it to replace it?

IMG_20200115_154018.thumb.jpg.91562916efc1ab7cfe70c021b306f9e2.jpg

 

There doesn't seem to be anything resembling a screw. Is (most likely) the chrome ring just pressed into the ceiling? You just kinda sorta pry it down?

 

That's how (I discovered) you got access to the lightbulb in the foyer. It got wet during the hurricane and when I turned the switch on it went "pop".

 

 

6 minutes ago, Cypress Sun said:

Heck, worthless could do it if he had opposable thumbs

 

He's a she.

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46 minutes ago, Seamus McGillicuddy said:

OK Alpo, is this really happening to you or something out of the latest novel you are reading?  :)

 

Seamus

The latest novel I'm reading is about Xanth, and they don't use electricity there.

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3 minutes ago, Alpo said:

And while on the subject of lights -- though it still works now, I'm sure that eventually the bulb will blow in the shower.

 

How in the heck did he DO YOU get to it to replace it?

IMG_20200115_154018.thumb.jpg.91562916efc1ab7cfe70c021b306f9e2.jpg

 

There doesn't seem to be anything resembling a screw. Is (most likely) the chrome ring just pressed into the ceiling? You just kinda sorta pry it down?

 

That's how (I discovered) you got access to the lightbulb in the foyer. It got wet during the hurricane and when I turned the switch on it went "pop".

 

 

 

He's a she.

On the one I have like that, the trim ring pulls down on two flexible wires, then you unscrew the flood bulb from the socket.  Install a new one and push the trim ring back up.

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3 minutes ago, Alpo said:

And while on the subject of lights -- though it still works now, I'm sure that eventually the bulb will blow in the shower.

 

How in the heck did he get to it to replace it?

IMG_20200115_154018.thumb.jpg.91562916efc1ab7cfe70c021b306f9e2.jpg

 

There doesn't seem to be anything resembling a screw. Is (most likely) the chrome ring just pressed into the ceiling? You just kinda sorta pry it down?

 

That's how (I discovered) you got access to the lightbulb in the foyer. It got wet during the hurricane and when I turned the switch on it went "pop".

 

 

 

He's a she.

Then “Worthless could do it if she weren’t blonde”

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Mark is correct. Just pull down on the trim, that's what it's called, and it will come down about 3". Squeeze the springs together and the rim comes out. Buy a new LED "weather resistant" trim at HD or Lowes. They come with coil springs, install that and it will be a hell of a lot brighter in the shower. 

 

Sorry, I've only seen pic's of Worthless from the front.

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You might check your breaker first. Make sure it's not tripped. Then take a tester and check for power to one side of the switch. If there is no power coming into the switch there's a break in the circuit somewhere. Does the light flicker when you jiggle the switch side to side?

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I  understand the desire for thrift, but there are better places to save a few bucks than on electrical switches.  Cheap switches are cheap because they use substandard components or materials, or are built to looser tolerances.  They are more subject to poor internal contacts and faster degradation from use, both of which can cause arcing and fire.  Taking the risk to save $5 is not wise.  Buy a good, US made UL-rated switch from a known maker, like Leviton; avoid the Chinese discounted junk.

 

LL

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1 hour ago, Loophole LaRue, SASS #51438 said:

I  understand the desire for thrift, but there are better places to save a few bucks than on electrical switches.  Cheap switches are cheap because they use substandard components or materials, or are built to looser tolerances.  They are more subject to poor internal contacts and faster degradation from use, both of which can cause arcing and fire.  Taking the risk to save $5 is not wise.  Buy a good, US made UL-rated switch from a known maker, like Leviton; avoid the Chinese discounted junk.

 

LL

 

A 15 amp rated single pole switch made by Leviton costs about a $1.00 at HD. Even if Alpo was able to find 150 watt lamps to install in the light fixture (sockets probably rated at 75 watt max), 450 watts divided by 120 volts is approximately 3.2 amps...way under what the switch is rated for. By the way, most of the Leviton and Square D stuff (and many other name brands) are made in Mexico or Canada now.

 

The chances of the bathroom lights/etc in that switch bank being on different circuits is very slim. Still best to check with a volt meter or similar tester. 

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Trip the breaker and then VERIFY ABSENSE OF ENERGY before you touch that switch.

Breaker panels have been known to be mis-labled.

 

Duffield

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The wires on the switch were probably pushed into holes on the back of the switch instead of curled around the screws and then tightening the screws.

When you replace it, use the screws, not the holes.

 

Duffield

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31 minutes ago, Marshal Mo Hare, SASS #45984 said:

You never had a dog blame it on the cat?

We had a cat that would jump up on the kitchen counter and claw through the packaging on cold cuts etc. Then when someone approached the kitchen he would bat it on the floor next to the dog and sit there looking at the ceiling all innocent and uninterested in what deviltry the dog had been into. “Who Me?” 
 

CJ 

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Alpo,

 

To verify that the circuits are dead buy a non-contact voltage tester. Easier to use than a multi-meter and you are less likely to get a false reading and accidentally electrocute yourself.

 

There are lots of them available but the only ones I would buy are made by Klein Tools.  

 

As an added bonus the dual range versions can be used to troubleshoot Christmas tree lights.

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44 minutes ago, Duffield, SASS #23454 said:

The wires on the switch were probably pushed into holes on the back of the switch instead of curled around the screws and then tightening the screws.

When you replace it, use the screws, not the holes.

 

Duffield

 

Big +1

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