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Remington #10 vs CCI #11


Warden Callaway

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When I got my Pietta Confederate Navy 44s a few years back, I had some odds and ends caps that were at least 20 years old.  I'm thinking Speer and CCI brand.  They went bang.  The consensus was that Remington #10 was the cap of choice.   But my two go to suppliers, Grafs and MidwayUSA,  had none in stock (and still don't).  So after a couple of months of looking in gunstores and finding none,  I was about to order a bunch. But then I hit on a shop that had a peg full of them.  I bought what they had - 8 or so tins. 

 

I don't shoot the cap guns real often but my stash is starting to erode.  So I'm testing CCI #11s to see how they perform.  I picked up a hundred standard #11s at Grafs this morning and shot 3x6 through the chronograph this afternoon. They all went bang on first hammer fall.  They didn't tie up the gun.  They worked well in my Ted Cash capper.  They should be about equal dimensions to the Remington #10.   

 

The chronograph results showed a slightly higher average velocity and a little less spread.  But the difference was too small to make any congratulations.   Also the sample size was too small to declare a winner. 

 

I'll shoot up the rest of this tin and watch for reliability issues.  

 

Anyone routinely using the CCI #11?

 

Is there any use to try the #11 magnums? 

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This table is from an cap primer by Mako several years ago & was posted on the Open Range Forum.
Just wish I had copied the entire thing before photobucket stopped picture hosting.

--Dawg

 

mako_1.jpg

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When I was muzzle loader hunting... I switched to the CCI #11 magnum caps. Never used anything else until I started getting rifles that used 209 primers. The guy who had the lgs at the time also switched to the mag caps

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5 hours ago, Prairie Dawg, SASS #50329 said:

This table is from an cap primer by Mako several years ago & was posted on the Open Range Forum.
Just wish I had copied the entire thing before photobucket stopped picture hosting.

--Dawg

 

mako_1.jpg

 

In my Google adventure I found this data posted in several places. All from 2010/11 era.  I'm wondering if anything has changed?  I'll measure the heights of the sample that I have.   Likely none of these companies actually make these caps but are just labeled from some source in Europe or Asia,  

 

1361004022_RemvsCCIJan2020.jpg.431caea0399980dd3e8c82e060dc986e.jpg

 

This picture seems to be linked to the same post Mako made.  If so, the pictures are still out there floating around in a Photobucket cloud.  It would just take paying the devil to make them available again. 

 

In my short first test of 18 CCI #11s,  I did feel like maybe one cap didn't fit as tightly when applied using the Ted Cash capper but it and others seemed tight enough when pushed on.  

 

I should mention the gun was the Pietta Yank 51 Navy 44 I just got and has the stock nipples/cones/tubes that came on it.   

 

 

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Ok,  I wasn't going back to sleep so I got up and measured one of each.

 

1511475045_RemvsCCIcapdimJan2020.jpg.305fcd4293bae3967ae7f56f1bcd5b8c.jpg

 

Both measure 168 heitht. Same 163-164 id.  Same wall thickness of 006. The only slight difference is the CCI has a bit more stuffing by a couple of thousands. 

 

Both packages say made in USA. But I'm sceptical.  I worked at a factory that put "Made in USA" on the nameplate but the parts and raw materials came from all over the world.  Much of it from China.  We made products and partially disassembled them and shipped them to Saudi Arabia where they put them back on - including a name plate that was marked, "Made in Saudi Arabia", in Farsi. 

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2 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

Ok,  I wasn't going back to sleep so I got up and measured one of each.

 

1511475045_RemvsCCIcapdimJan2020.jpg.305fcd4293bae3967ae7f56f1bcd5b8c.jpg

 

Both measure 168 heitht. Same 163-164 id.  Same wall thickness of 006. The only slight difference is the CCI has a bit more stuffing by a couple of thousands. 

 

Both packages say made in USA. But I'm sceptical.  I worked at a factory that put "Made in USA" on the nameplate but the parts and raw materials came from all over the world.  Much of it from China.  We made products and partially disassembled them and shipped them to Saudi Arabia where they put them back on - including a name plate that was marked, "Made in Saudi Arabia", in Farsi. 

Interesting I will have to try some ..do you think the CCI # 11 would be okay on the slix nipples for the ROA's ..I always use Rem # 10.

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Yes, that picture is from the same article.

The caps fit Treso nipples.

--Dawg

 

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Just now, Warden Callaway said:

 

We don't have a Cabela's in our area but do have a Bass Pro.  Both places list Remington #10 but at $9/100.  CCI #11a at Grafs are $4.70/100. 

 

I didn't say they were cheap, just that they had them. I have both within an hour drive, but order online most of the time.

 

I've only tried one tin(100) of the CCI #11 and they were fine,  please let us know if the CCI continue to work for you; will be nice to have an alternative to Remmie 10s.

 

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I bought 25,000  Remington #10 at less than $5/100.

Still have around 20K left.

But if CCI work for you, they are a  good alternative.

 

I also have several thousand Remmie #11.

They work well, but tend to rotate in the capper, as Slim has pointed out.

Same dimensions, just not as deep

--Dawg

 

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12 minutes ago, Prairie Dawg, SASS #50329 said:

I bought 25,000  Remington #10 at less than $5/100.

Still have around 20K left.

 

I'm on the slippery slope to 70 and I bust a couple 2-300 caps a year so just the prospect of running out of the 4-500 Remington caps I have is optimistic.   :lol:

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22 minutes ago, Prairie Dawg, SASS #50329 said:

I bought 25,000  Remington #10 at less than $5/100.

Still have around 20K left.

But if CCI work for you, they are a  good alternative.

 

I also have several thousand Remmie #11.

They work well, but tend to rotate in the capper, as Slim has pointed out.

Same dimensions, just not as deep

--Dawg

 

 

If you ever lose your mind and switch to that heathen smokeless mess, let me know I have a home for all those caps :D

 

 

 

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I have been shooting CCI #11 Magnum caps for many years. First in long range rifles and later in cap guns for SASS. Magnums are a bit hotter allowing for better ignition when it counts. I usually buy a box  of 1000 which I used to shoot in a year but have not been out as much this year.

 

My cap guns are fitted with Tresso nipples which are a perfect fit with the #11 caps.

 

I have three different styles of Ted Cash cappers and the #11's work just fine in them. Everybody has their favorite but this combination works well for me.

 

Lucky

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Thanks : Coffinmaker for your words for the wise, you worked on 3 pairs of my 51 Navys , and have had no trouble at all using you advice. Thanks again Bulldog Brown        

Just my 2cents

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47 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

No real need to piddle around with "others."  Good luck when you do.

 

 

CC, you jinked me! :rolleyes:

 

I've been going in and out doing chores before the weather turns bad to worse.  Each trip I've been taking out the new Yank 51 Navy and shooting it out using the CCI #11s.  I'm over halfway through the 100 with no problems. Then #5 on this cylinder didn't fire.  And it wouldn't cock.  I pulled the cylinder and pushed the bolt down and it cocked.  A cap was smashed between hammer and frame.  

 

The gun hasn't been cleaned in all those shots.   (I do load on the stand so I wipe the cylinder face down before loading.)  The cap in the hammer channel wouldn't necessarily be the primer fault. 

 

We proceed on. :D

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1 minute ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

A cap was smashed between hammer and frame.

 

 The cap in the hammer channel wouldn't necessarily be the primer fault.

 

 

A 3/32" drill bit, some JB Weld, and a dremel will fix that problem forever :D

 

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Bottom Dealin Mike's approach is good.  Not excellent.  Just ... good.  It doesn't go far enough.  Especially if you happen to be shooting Silver Senior Frontier Cartridge Gunfighter with Cap Guns.  With a gun in each hand, the guns MUST be as reliable as Suppository Shooters.  PERIOD.

 

Without a mechanical means of preventing Caps from entering the hammer channel and hanging up the hammer, it's not "if" your going to have trouble, it's "when."  If you're shooting a match, ONCE is too many.

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I try and buy Remington 10 when ever I find them two or three hear 4 or 5 there .

I always seem to keep about 1k on hand .

After the .22 issue and Primer issue we had a few years ago .

I will NEVER get cought with a shortage like some did.

I never buy them all .

But I will buy 2 to 10 if they have enough too do so.

Just Sayin. 

Rooster 

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I buy them a case (5000) at a time & have gotten them from several on-line sources.

After the scare a few years ago, I now have many years supply of caps & primers too

--Dawg

 

I try and buy Remington 10 when ever I find them two or three hear 4 or 5 there .

I always seem to keep about 1k on hand .

After the .22 issue and Primer issue we had a few years ago .

I will NEVER get cought with a shortage like some did.

I never buy them all .

But I will buy 2 to 10 if they have enough too do so.

Just Sayin. 

Rooster 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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PLUS ONE too Prairie Dawg and Rooster.  Never get caught short of Caps.  Sacrilege.  Must always have Caps, Powder and Shot.

 

Now, a word about Olympic Gymnastics or WTA Tennis > 

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4 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

Maybe stacking two hammer springs?


In his video he still got a jam using only 12 grains of powder, less than the 15 grains required for SASS competition, in a gun that would be harder to cock with the two springs.

 

His “solution” doesn’t appeal to me.

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1 hour ago, J-BAR #18287 said:


In his video he still got a jam using only 12 grains of powder, less than the 15 grains required for SASS competition, in a gun that would be harder to cock with the two springs.

 

His “solution” doesn’t appeal to me.

He was using a .31 caliber gun, not legal for main match use anyway.  

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Windy and nasty weather yesterday so I finally to the Dixie Yank apart and gave it a light D&C (deburring and cleaning).  Went light but wasn't much to do.  I did clean up the hammer face and safety notch. 

 

When I had to go out,  I loaded the Yank and capped with CCI #11s.  I'd shoot it out before coming back in. Another 30 shots and no problems.  All went bang and caps fell off.

 

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Ah well.  You actually don't want the Caps to just "fall off."  Caps should stay on the nipples to the unloading table.  When the caps just "fall off" your flirting with a cap jam at the water table.  That ain't good either.

 

And.  Oh by the way.  It takes a lot to make a '49 run.  Double Main Springs is just plain stupid.

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24 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

 

Ah well.  You actually don't want the Caps to just "fall off."  Caps should stay on the nipples to the unloading table.  

 

How to keep them from falling off when the split wide open? 

 

I don't think any more of the Remington #10s staid on other than the one under the hammer.

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6 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

How to keep them from falling off when the split wide open? 

 

I don't think any more of the Remington #10s staid on other than the one under the hammer.

Are you still using factory nipples?

 

Based on my experience around 75% stay on Slix nipples, and about 50% stay on Treso nipples. I have lightened springs, I suspect with a heavier spring the percent that stay on would go up. Factory nipples in my experience are terrible, especially with light springs.

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