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Glue for overshot cards in all brass shells.


H. K. Uriah, SASS #74619

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I've been reloading Magtech all brass shells for a few years now, and I hold the overshot card in place using a slight roll crimp to hold it firm against the shot.   This works well.   No glue needed.

 

But recently a pard gave me a bunch of old stuff, and mixed in with it all were ten of the RMC shells that use the standard shotgun primer.   These are far too thick walled to put any kind of a crimp on them.   In the past, I recall people here saying that they glue the cards in place, and sure enough, the RMCs clearly had their overshot card glued into them.   

 

Anyway, I am wanting to reload these things, but I have no idea what KIND of glue to use.   Simply because I have some, I tried rubber cement on the first two I loaded.  It is looking like it will hold, but at the same time like it was not the best choice as the dried glue instead of being hard is kinda rubbery.   My next thought was to try plain old Elmers Glue, but before I did so I thought I'd ask opinions of others who have used glue before.

 

Suggestions welcome.  

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The old shells were sealed with sodium silicate.  I got some from the pharmacy and it works a treat.  A couple of drops over the card glues it in.  I have been using it for years.  

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Back when I was loading brass shells I used Duco cement for gluing in the overshot cards. Worked well.

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I NEVER crimp my 10 gauge 3-1/2" brass shells. Crimping stresses the brass and shortens its life. I have some that I have fired many times with wart hog loads of Holy black that are close to 20 years old. I always use DUCO Cement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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57 minutes ago, Doc Coles SASS 1188 said:

sodium silicate

 Also known as Water Glass

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I’ve used hot glue sticks, elmers. Both would occasionally not hold. Tried waterglass and it works very well. You can buy a lifetime supply on amazon for a few bucks.  Get a glass eye dropper to apply. 

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On 1/1/2020 at 12:57 PM, Doc Coles SASS 1188 said:

The old shells were sealed with sodium silicate.  I got some from the pharmacy and it works a treat.  A couple of drops over the card glues it in.  I have been using it for years.  

+1

 

works great for me too

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I've tried some of most of the things above, but the best I've used for my 12 ga. Magtechs and my 10ga. hand made ones are hot glue . El cheepo from Wally World , gun and glue sticks ,and you don't have to wait for it to dry. I've used water glass, Duco glue, Elmers, RTV, silicone bathtub type sealers, stuff we used on aircraft,  you have to wait for all to dry. Hot glue, zip it , 10-15 seconds, dry and done.

YMMV,

Isom

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Well, water-glass dries almost instantly.  I liked it for that plus it is authentic for that purpose.  But I found that if I didn't shoot the shells for several months, the sealer dried out and once I had an overcard come loose after the first round was shot in the other barrel.  So I took to adding another layer of sealer if the shells had been sitting for a while.  That was fine until my giant jar of the stuff dried up, and I never bothered to get any more.

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I use white glue but I put an over shot card down then glue then another over shot card it seems to hold better squeezing the glue between the two cards.

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2 hours ago, Make do said:

I use white glue but I put an over shot card down then glue then another over shot card it seems to hold better squeezing the glue between the two cards.

 

That's an interesting way to do it.  But aren't you concerned about all the money you're spending on those high-dollar cards? 

 

:)

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7 hours ago, Isom Dart, SASS#8096 said:

I've tried some of most of the things above, but the best I've used for my 12 ga. Magtechs and my 10ga. hand made ones are hot glue . El cheepo from Wally World , gun and glue sticks ,and you don't have to wait for it to dry. I've used water glass, Duco glue, Elmers, RTV, silicone bathtub type sealers, stuff we used on aircraft,  you have to wait for all to dry. Hot glue, zip it , 10-15 seconds, dry and done.

YMMV,

Isom

Can’t wait for the glue to dry? Where are you reloading your shells? At your cart right before going to the loading table??i know my 10 gauge brass shells are expensive, but I think I can afford enough for one match at a time. 

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Hombre,

I load at home. Over the years I've accumulated about 200+ 12ga. Magtechs and 50, 10ga brass. I only use the brass 10ga for main matches. I use plastic 10ga for regular matches and the 12ga anytime. I load in batches, I've got 3 of the 50 hole wooden reloader blocks. When I get down to about a box and a half of 12ga I reload. I deprime, wash, tumble clean dry and store until I'm ready to reload again. The 10ga. I reload then store. Like I said, I've tried most of the other stuff,,,,,,, but the hot glue works best for me.

YMMV,

Isom 

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On 1/1/2020 at 2:32 PM, Mud Marine,SASS#54686 Life said:

I NEVER crimp my 10 gauge 3-1/2" brass shells. Crimping stresses the brass and shortens its life. I have some that I have fired many times with wart hog loads of Holy black that are close to 20 years old. I always use DUCO Cement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plus 100 on Duco works great 

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