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Fitting the Shotgun


bgavin

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I want to cut a negative angle in the butt stock of my Stoeger SxS.

I know how I want it cut, am an experienced cabinet builder and fully tooled.
Q: has anybody setup a jig, etc, for making a clean and accurate cut?

Rather than re-invent the wheel, I prefer to learn from those ahead of me in this venture.

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I use a simple plywood jig to slide in my table saw's guide ways that is built from a flat base plate, and a support railing at front-top and another on back-bottom.  Forming a wide U shape.  Guide rails screwed to the bottom of the base to fit the ways.  Make the guide rails tall enough to raise base plate to clear the strapping that runs under the base plate.  I made it easily adjustable for any butt and any angle, by routing several "strap holes" into the base plate.   I lay down some firm foam blocks to support the stock level from receiver end to butt.  Then I feed some nylon strapping through the best holes and strap the butt solidly - compressing down into the foam, making sure to set the butt end out over the saw kerf cut in the jig to get the butt angle (pitch) I want.    If I can't nudge the stock around in the jig and angle is right, then I cut. 

 

Every stock is a little different.  The more ability the jig gives you to adjust the stock to the right level and angle, the more likely you get a great result and spend less time doing it.

 

Use a sharp, very fine tooth, crosscut blade, wrap the stock on the cut line with a couple layers of masking tape, and cut slowly on one pass.   Minimizes tear out and an uneven butt surface.    (I hate an uneven butt surface.  :lol:)

 

Good luck, GJ

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I wanted to cut down the stock on my shotgun and I didn’t have a table saw.  I put masking tape around the stock, marked the cut line points on the tape, and I took it up to the super hardware store where they did have a saw (I forget what they used it for).  The guy there took a very fine, new blade out of stock, installed it in their saw, set the angle and made the cut for me, because they wouldn’t let me play with the saw.  I tried to pay for the saw blade but the guy said no.  It really did turn out nice.

 

Cat Brules

 

 

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Cat - hope it was just the stock you carried into the store :P

 

:huh:

Oohhhh!   Maybe THAT’S why they were so helpful!

 

(Yes, the buttstock only!);)

 

 

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Not to hijack this thread too much, but isn't there a rule of thumb on what the LOP should be for a shotgun?  My TTN points great for me but my Baikal has less stock drop and is harder to aim.  I have long arms and think it might help to make the stock longer with a spacer under a butt cover.

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Best one I've seen is between 2 and 3 inches from your strong hand's thumb to the tip of your nose when the gun is fully up on shoulder.    You should be looking down the barrel, seeing both the rear of action and the full length of barrel lined up.  Too much front sight visible, you shoot over.   Too little, you shoot low.    Yep, a TTN is a gun for fellows who are tall and thin - all that drop lets the receiver sit way up high.   (Bet your Baikal shoots high if you aren't careful to raise it all the way up to your cheek.)

 

Good luck, GJ

 

 

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Thank you Joe, that is what I wanted to know.  Yes, the Baikal shoots high.  Too much trouble to get my face low enough for it so I just aim low, but would like to correct it.  I just recently added about 1/2" of length under a butt cover, but the nose-to-thumb distance is still a little under 2 inches.  I will add more length.

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I just make a rough cut with a band saw then square it up with a stationary belt sander. If you want a more precise cut measure the difference in thickness of the butt end and the forward end. Then use a stack of old playing cards to shim to level.  Just use half the difference  in cards.

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It's easy to over shorten a long gun stock. 

Rule of thumb: every 1/4" removed from the buttstock will change the pull length by about an inch.  I don't know why, it seems illogical, but it holds true.  

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I just make a rough cut with a band saw then square it up with a stationary belt sander. If you want a more precise cut measure the difference in thickness of the butt end and the forward end. Then use a stack of old playing cards to shim to level.  Just use half the difference  in cards.

This describes the way I have done it for many years.

J.M.

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Rule of thumb: every 1/4" removed from the buttstock will change the pull length by about an inch.


That is very useful, and gives me a better idea where to start.
I'll build a jig as G.J describes above so I can make repeatable cuts.

My Stoeger has about 6 inches between thumb and nose right now.

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