Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Loading List For .45-70 Long Range


Cholla

Recommended Posts

I just got though reading an article about loading for long range shooting with the .45-70.

The items that it appears I need are:

-24" brass drop tube

-Sinclair Primer Pocket Uniformer

-Lyman M-die for getting precise neck expansion.

-Redding Micrometer adjustable compression seating die

-.030 King Veg wads

 

I am not in any hurry to get the items as I still have to move 1700 miles so the less I buy now the less I have to move. But, do these sound right?

 

I have a set of RCBS .45-70 dies, several Lyman molds, and a wad punch die that I'm a little fuzzy on using.

 

The article said to "fire-form" the brass, which I assume means to load them up and shoot them. from then on I only resize the neck. Do I have that right?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found the .060 veg wad to seal better.

Don't worry about the primer pocket uniformer.

I F/L size my Sharps .45-70 cases in a .45-90 die. Works the brass less.;)

Would be a good idea to anneal the case mouths before the first loading.

Don't need a mic-die for powder compression.

OLG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The article said to load Swiss 1.5. I had another shooter recommend using Swiss 4. I guess I can see that because there would be less air space and more powder. Yet, I don't see anyone else saying that. Recommendations?

 

Edit: I found a table that shows Swiss 4 being the same as 1.5F.

 

Swiss brand number     "F" system of grain size designation
      5                                       Fg (1Fg)
      4                                       1 1/2 Fg (between Fg and FFg in grain size)
      3                                       FFg (2Fg)
      2                                       FFFg (3Fg)
      1                                       FFFFg (4Fg)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are going to load the .45-70  I highly recommend you find a copy of Loading cartridges for the original .45-70 Springfield rifle and carbine by J.S Wolf and Pat Wolf.  The best book I've ever seed dedicated to a single cartridge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4f is a big bad bang. Everyone uses 1.5 or 2f.  If I'm going to use the brass in the same rifle I never resize. And I don't crimp. Locally we put enough powder in to just let the bullet engage the lands. We lever the round in with a cam. That seats and compresses the bullet.

But as you'll find out every rifle shoots s different load, bullet, loading combination.

Ike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

OP, I strongly urge to to buy the book-

Shooting Buffalo Rifles of the Old West by Mike Venturino.

You'll find it on Amazon. 

OLG

The article I read was by Mike so I just ordered his book. Goex Olde Eynsford it is. I didn't want to buy non-USA powder anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Sedalia Dave said:

 

Better double check that.  It is my understanding the anything finer than 3f is for priming pans or blanks.

That is why I was questioning it. I also read where some were seating the bullet out so they could pack more powder in so I thought, eh, maybe that how some get even more packed in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Cholla said:

That is why I was questioning it. I also read where some were seating the bullet out so they could pack more powder in so I thought, eh, maybe that how some get even more packed in.

You going to shoot GG bullets or PP?

I shoot GG that I cast. It's a 535gn Paul Jones Creedmoor bullet cast 30/1, pan lubed with DGL

OLG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

You going to shoot GG bullets or PP?

I shoot GG that I cast. It's a 535gn Paul Jones Creedmoor bullet cast 30/1, pan lubed with DGL

OLG

I am ignorant on what GG or PP mean. I picked up three molds at the estate sale of a long range shooter. Two are Lyman. I am at work so I can’t verify the numbers but I think one was a 535 grain Postell (sp?) and another mold by a company I hadn’t heard of before that looks very close. 

I had looked at the PJ Creedmoor mold but I see they are no longer offered. I figured I’d see how the molds I have work before getting more. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A drop tube is a handy thing to have if you are trying to get the case as full as possible. And a M die is also handy , as is a compression die , but nothing on that list is absolutely necessary. Venturino's book will be some helpful reading.

You are in for some great times when you get settled in.

Good luck , and good shooting.

Rex :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Locally most of us;

Don't resize cases

Anneal the cases

Don't use a compression die.

We use the same maker brass for everything, no mix and match brass.

Drop the powder form the dispenser and then also weigh it to insure every load is the same.

We put a newspaper wad over the primer to help spread the flame.

We use a fiber wad over the powder.

We use 1.5 or 2F Swiss

We drop the powder into the case with a 24" drop tube.

We push the bullet by hand into the case.

We do not crimp.

The bullet is set out far enough that when pushed into the chamber it touches the lands.

Then we seat the round into the chamber with a lever which also compresses the powder about 1/16" Avoids bullet jump!

We use Federal "match" primers

20/1 or 30/1 lead bullets. Size and shape a vary with the shooter.

Lube is shooters choice, mine is 50/50 Crisco and bees wax.

We wipe with a wet patch after every shot. Too dry here in Nevada for blow tubes.

We shoot out to 750 yards

We shoot BBCR target shapes and or squares and round targets.

 

But what you'll find is what you'll find in each author's book and each shooter. You need to find your combination. All of these are good starting points

Ike

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I checked what I bought last week.

Lyman 457132 535 GR Postell mould

Lyman 457193 405 GR Mould

Saeco 65745 525 GR mould

Lyman .45 cal Short Neck Size Die (45-70, 45-90, 45-100)

180 Nonte-Taylor unfired 45 basic brass (45-120)

28 Huntington unfired 45 basic brass (45-120)

 

My thinking is that I sell the 45-120 brass and buy some Starline 45-70 brass

I have a mess of Remington brass but another article I read said Remington brass has too much variation in the neck for accuracy sake.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, The Blarney Kid said:

Cholla, when you get settled and get your loads set up come on out to the Quigley match in Forsyth, Montana on Father's Day weekend.

Do as he sez-It's a great shoot. My wife and I had the best of time at the Q.

OP-Dump the basic and go with Starline.

Order a stepped expander from Buffalo Arms Company. You want .457x.461.

You will also need to buy a compression die that fits the die body you use the expander in.

I use the Lyman die body.

https://www.buffaloarms.com/

You WILL NEED to anneal the case mouths of those s'line cases.

What alloy will you shoot-You don't want a 'hard' bullet.

I have had good luck with 20/1 and 30/1 lead/tin alloy.

OLG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Circling back around, I found a table in the info John Boy provided that shows that Swiss 4 is the same as 1.5F

 

Swiss brand number     "F" system of grain size designation
      5                                       Fg (1Fg)
      4                                       1 1/2 Fg (between Fg and FFg in grain size)
      3                                       FFg (2Fg)
      2                                       FFFg (3Fg)
      1                                       FFFFg (4Fg)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Howdy ;

Get Paul Matthews  book on the .45-70 and his book "The Paper Jacket"

The Number ONE thing I have found to increase  uniformity is the proper use of a Drop-Tube in the loading of Blackpowder cartridges ...

The Lyman mold you didn't buy is one designed by Paul Matthews ... and is a very good one ...

I have had Zero problem with Remington brass in .45-70 , can't say the same about a lot of their other brass ...

Star-Line Brass is good as are CCI Match Primers ...

A good Lube is Critical, SPG, Lyman Gold, Pioneer Black Powder or "DGL"...

 

Jabez Cowboy 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

I found a table in the info John Boy provided that shows that Swiss 4 is the same as 1.5F

Needs to be explained more:  Swiss powder sold on the International market excluding the US & Canada use the 1 through 5 grades of powder designation.  I'm not sure if it is the same for other BP vendors such as Wano

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.