Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum
Arkieguns

US Arms Abilene

Recommended Posts

I have a US Arms Abilene in .45 LC. I just replaced a broken hand on it but the cylinder is locked up and won’t move. The cylinder stop won’t disengage at all. And suggestions on why it would do this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is this the SA clone of a Ruger, from Mossberg from 30+ years ago?  If so, there weren’t too many.  If so, I don’t know who made the parts.  

    Or, Is it a clone of the Model P?  

I’m really not familiar with them.

 

ANYWAY, I would consider:

Possibly incorrect part?

   The brand is unfamiliar, so whoever you bought the part from may have sold it knowing it’s only “close”.

   Usually all need some fitting to one extent.or another.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Arkieguns said:

I have a US Arms Abilene in .45 LC. I just replaced a broken hand on it but the cylinder is locked up and won’t move. The cylinder stop won’t disengage at all. And suggestions on why it would do this?

Nope ... sorry ... (I thought it was a SAA clone/replica) ...

nope.gif.71e1832d6c37df9919419ff9192410c1.gif

Edited by Patagonia Pete
edit: never mind ... that thing looks like a Ruger!! Open the loading gate??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm guessing but, I'd say you didn't fit the hand correctly, or didn't assemble the anvil, bolt trigger group right.   Timing is off.  Numrich lists parts, but be advised... they don't always get their parts id'd correctly.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would start removing parts to try to narrow it down.  Remove cylinder first and see if hammer will cock and bolt rise/fall.  Remove bolt and try same.  Put bolt back in and remove hand and try.

 

If you still have the original hand (or pieces), compare that to the new one.  

Edited by Abilene, SASS # 27489

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd say the new hand is too long (needs to be fitted) which means it is trying to turn a still locked up cylinder. 

 

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cylinder being locked up was the original problem. Upon disassembly is when I discovered the broken hand. The hammer/hand turns the cylinder just fine before I put the cylinder stop (or bolt) in. Then the cylinder stop will not disengage which is why I figure the hand was broken while trying for force it to move against the cylinder stop. The gun isn’t mine, I’m just working on it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In that case, make sure the bolt is "resetting" (so that it will move when you start the cycle again). If not, that is the problem (at least the primary prob.).  As you have seen, a locked cylinder won't turn. 

  If the bolt is resetting, the hand is too long (bolt isn't out of the way before the hand engages the ratchet. One of these corrections should allow the action to cycle, so now you can "setup" the action. 

 

   1st step is having the bolt head snap into the locking notch simultaneously with reaching full cock (this involves adjusting the hand length).  Once that happens, 

   Step 2. Adjusting bolt drop ( bolt "dropping" onto the cylinder)  to basically a bolts width before the locking notch (about midway in the approach if one is present). This involves adjusting material on the left bolt arm (in a Colt type action) or the tail of the bolt on a Ruger style bolt.

 

Holler if you need help with that.

 

Mike

 When you say a broken hand, are you referring to a spring mounted on the hand or an actual "broken" hand?

Edited by 45 Dragoon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, 45 Dragoon said:

In that case, make sure the bolt is "resetting" (so that it will move when you start the cycle again). If not, that is the problem (at least the primary prob.).  As you have seen, a locked cylinder won't turn. 

  If the bolt is resetting, the hand is too long (bolt isn't out of the way before the hand engages the ratchet. One of these corrections should allow the action to cycle, so now you can "setup" the action. 

 

   1st step is having the bolt head snap into the locking notch simultaneously with reaching full cock (this involves adjusting the hand length).  Once that happens, 

   Step 2. Adjusting bolt drop ( bolt "dropping" onto the cylinder)  to basically a bolts width before the locking notch (about midway in the approach if one is present). This involves adjusting material on the left bolt arm (in a Colt type action) or the tail of the bolt on a Ruger style bolt.

 

Holler if you need help with that.

 

Mike

 When you say a broken hand, are you referring to a spring mounted on the hand or an actual "broken" hand?

Actual hand. There was no spring on the hand when I received it. I know some designs are springless

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, that's a Ruger-esque type setup. Same same applies as far as setup goes. The hand spring is a "frame mounted" coil and plunger just as the Ruger (and most everyone else  .  .  .  including me!!! Lol!). The #35 spring in the view is the combination bolt/trigger spring (hand spring and plunger are #47 +#48).

 

Mike

Edited by 45 Dragoon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.