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How does one get the bolt out of a Marlin 39?


Alpo

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I downloaded the owner's manual. Took the gun (which I bought used some 20 years ago and have fired maybe a hundred rounds through it) into two pieces for the first time.

 

I figured I would remove the bolt, clean it, lubricate it and replace it. According to the instructions and the picture in the owner's manual, you just lightly grasp it between your thumb and index finger and pull it straight out.

 

No workie workie.

 

Since it was 45 or so years old when I bought it, it's quite possible the bolt has never been removed, and has 45 years of gummed up powder holding it in place. In which case dropping a cleaning rod down the barrel and tapping it a little bit should solve the problem.

 

But it is also quite possible that there is some little trick to removing it - a lever that needs pushed or a switch that needs pulled, or something similar - and tapping on the front of it with a cleaning rod would be a bad idea.

 

Is there a trick to this?

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Try pulling back on the trigger at the same time as you pull straight back on the bolt assembly.

 

Cat Brules

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Well, okay then.  I didn’t know that.

 

Try it anyway........whaddaya got to lose!!   :-)

 

I see now that it’s a lever gun.  You’ll get it. It’ll be interesting to know.

 

EDIT: .....  Do  A YouTube search for something like “clean and maintain marlin 39“. You should find one or more videos that goes through the whole process. 

Cat Brules

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33 minutes ago, Cat Brules said:

Try it anyway........whaddaya got to lose!!   :-)

I was thinking about opening the lever about half way before separating the pieces (because when the lever goes down the bolt goes back) but I was afraid that opening the lever might stick a piece up inside the bolt, and it would not come apart like it oughta.

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Do as Pat said and also stick your tongue out just a tad out of the corner of your mouth. Sounds like Lawman Mark may have something there.

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Found this Alpo, just a bit down the page it says to slide it to the rear and lift it out. Another post said you may need to push it towards the side of the receiver against the ejector pressure to move it back. Good Luck.

https://www.marlinowners.com/forum/how-disassemble-clean/46635-golden-39a-disassembly-refurbishing-parts-1-2-merged.html

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On 9/25/2019 at 5:27 PM, Eyesa Horg said:

Found this Alpo, just a bit down the page it says to slide it to the rear and lift it out. Another post said you may need to push it towards the side of the receiver against the ejector pressure to move it back. Good Luck.

https://www.marlinowners.com/forum/how-disassemble-clean/46635-golden-39a-disassembly-refurbishing-parts-1-2-merged.html

Just now got back yo this, and that was exactly it.

 

Pushing into the receiver, against what felt like a VERY strong spring, allowed it to move. Taking it out was then simple.

 

Cleaned off years of gunk. Removed, cleaned and replaced the firing pin.

 

Then the joy of putting it back into the receiver, against that humongous ejector pressure.

 

Got it in (thank God for bamboo chopsticks), and am about to test fire it.

 

I don't think I'll remove the bolt very often.

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I forgot about the ejector spring. It definitely makes the in and out more tricky than it needs to be. 

 

But you’ll find that Marlin to be one of the sweetest shooting 22s ever built. I am in love with mine (1950s vintage) and shall never part with it. 

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Looks like mine's a '55....  it wears an ancient Weaver B4 scope and has no sights.  I'd love to find original sights for it....

 

For those of y'all who might be interested, here's the production date chart:

 

Marlin's year of manufacture for the 39A is determined from the following list of letter/numeral prefixs to the serial number:

1939 - no letter prefix
1940-1941 - B
1945 - C
1946 - c (lower case)
1947 - D
1948 - E
1949 - F
1950 - G
1951 - H
1952 - J
1953 - K
1954 - L
1955 - M
1956 - N
1957 early - P
1957l ate-1958 early - R
1958 early - 1959 - S
1960 early - T
1960 (August) - 1961 - U
1961 (August) - 1962 - V
1963 - W
1964 - Y & Z
1965 - AA
1966 - AB
1967 - AC
1968 - AD or 68
1969 - 69
1970 - 70
1971 - 71
1972 - 72

Starting in 1973, the year of manufacture maybe determined by subtracting the first two digits of the serial number from 100:

Example: SN 2512345 would have been made in 1975 [100 - 25 = 75]

 

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If you look at the ejector assembly you will see a screw, the  screw will hold the ejector arm down to allow the bolt to be replaced easily. You have to hold the ejector down and turn the screw until it locks the ejector in place. Once the gun is back together, you open the action and turn the screw the opposite way and the ejector will pop back out.

image.png.669b23acc39773897019afa7c5910a91.png

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