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Go West

Stuck shells

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Twice I had factory Estate shells stuck in the chambers in my Stoeger coach gun. The extractors came out on opening, but the shells were solidly stuck in the chambers. This is the first time this has happened to a fairly new gun, they normally just pop out with a shrug. Do I need to hone the cylinders, mop the chambers with silicone, or? Thanks in advance. I was wondering if the base expanded causing the stick.

Edited by Go West

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48 minutes ago, Go West said:

wondering if the base expanded causing the stick.

 

Almost certainly.   Estates use a steel base "shell" over the head of the hull.  Steel has much less spring-back then the higher-price brass-covered-head hulls.

 

However....Examine the extractors - someone may have honed the snot out of them and given them much less purchase on the fired cases than they started with.  There should at least still be a small ledge to catch the rims of the cases.  Nor should hulls be rattling loose in the chambers such that they can dodge the extractors.

 

Good luck, GJ

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Winchester white box steel base shells will stick in my Stoeger almost every time while the brass based AA's shuck out just fine. I now avoid any hulls that aren't brass based.

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After removing the extractor.

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4 hours ago, Go West said:

Twice I had factory Estate shells stuck in the chambers in my Stoeger coach gun. The extractors came out on opening, but the shells were solidly stuck in the chambers. This is the first time this has happened to a fairly new gun, they normally just pop out with a shrug. Do I need to hone the cylinders, mop the chambers with silicone, or? Thanks in advance. I was wondering if the base expanded causing the stick.

My SKB will only reliably shuck STS (my 1st choice) or AA's and the chambers have been slicked up. I spray (once before the match) Hornady One Shot Lube on a 10 ga mop and clean the chambers after each stage.

 

Randy

 

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are the estate shells steel base or brass base? they slipped under the extractors,,,?   estate shells are smaller in diameter than AAs maybe too much slop

,  

 

 

l

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I presume the shells have a steel base. The chambers have never been honed. The shells are from a case I bought. It may be possible a box of them were larger or perhaps loaded hotter than the previous boxes used. At the match, I was using my screw knife to pry out the offenders, probably around the 3rd or 4th stage. Not too good for quick times. I intended to bring a mop to swab the chambers, but I couldn't find one that early in the morning before leaving for the range. I'll hone the chambers at some point, but since Bordertown is right around the corner, I'll switch to my 87 or 97. Decisions, decisions. Thanks to all for your replies.

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12 hours ago, Doc X said:

Winchester white box steel base shells will stick in my Stoeger almost every time while the brass based AA's shuck out just fine. I now avoid any hulls that aren't brass based.

 

Winchester white box are junk when it comes to CAS. Has nothing to do with the steel base of the hull. It is the plastic they are made of. 

When I shoot smokeless I shoot Federal Top Guns exclusively. Only issue I have ever had with them is a bad lot of shells where the heads are deformed. Quick trip through my MEC Super Sizer and they work just fine. Remington Gun Clubs also equally well. 

Both the Federal Top Guns and the Remington Gun clubs have steel bases and ribbed hulls yet they shuck reliably. 

 

The truth is that it is the composition of the plastic that matters the most.  

 

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I give the chambers a squirt of rem oil or such often during a match too,,, very seldom do I have hulls that stick...

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On 9/22/2019 at 2:52 PM, Go West said:

Twice I had factory Estate shells stuck in the chambers in my Stoeger coach gun. The extractors came out on opening, but the shells were solidly stuck in the chambers. This is the first time this has happened to a fairly new gun, they normally just pop out with a shrug. Do I need to hone the cylinders, mop the chambers with silicone, or? Thanks in advance. I was wondering if the base expanded causing the stick.

You did not say if the chambers were clean, or if the hulls were in  new condition. 

Before Removing cylinder material with a hone or sandpaper, do the cheap and easy stuff first.  Clean the chambers until they shine like mirrors.  Sometimes stubborn cellulose from powder or even melted plastic (if shooting BP) can adhere inside the chambers.

 

After every ten or so shots,  I clean the chamber and forcing cone area with a 12ga cyclone cleaning/ scraping tool used with Hoppes No. 9 solvent.  Then I run a very tight, dry, cleaning patch on a 12 GA jag.  (The red shop towels sold at Harbor Freight make great patches if before the match you cut them in quarters.  They give a good tight fit.  They can be laundred and reused.) 

After running the swab down the barrel, I visually inspect the chambers, and spray very  SPARINGLY with Hornady's One Shot.   Using t b at process on a Browning it's been quite some time since I had a hull stick.  I use green STS hulls  exclusively.  

Be very careful if you hone the cylinders, not to polish the extractor edges, as mentioned above.  Keep in mind the polishing is to smooth the cylinder wall, not materially increase its diameter.  If you open the cylinder too much, blow-by gasses will increase, introducing more powder residue and lead, and worsening the sticking problem.  You can't put the material back once you take it off the cylinder wall, so do work very slowly and carefully.  

Edited by Dusty Devil Dale

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14 minutes ago, Johnny Meadows,SASS#28485L said:

When placing you ammo into you shotgun belt, wipe them with armor all.

J M

Good idea. 

Before a match, I have been running my SG ammo (STS green) through the crimp die a second time, to tighten them up, if they have been stored very long.  Then I lay them out on a table and lightly coat them with Hornady's One Shot.   It makes a huge difference in ease of loading and extracting empties.   The Armour All should make them even easier, plus it will gradually coat the SG loops on the belt and make grabbing the shells smoother.   I'll give it a try.  Thx. 

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I have a Stoeger Coach gun and shoot Winchester AAs. I did hone and polish the chambers and do not lube the chambers or shells prior to or at any time during a match, but they shuck just fine. I have not tried Estate or STS, but will at some point to see how they work in my SG.

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