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YADAQ Yet Another AA Question


wyliefoxEsquire

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Not wanting to hijack other threads.

Please share your process to successfully reload Winchester AA Low Noise Low Recoil hulls.

Using MEC 9000G press, claybuster pink 3/4 ounce wads

Lets say out of 100 reloads only 40 have good crimps AND pass inspection of a 12 ga shell checker.

of the 60 most have poor crimps and are not checked at all

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I quit using AA hulls for the issues you describe.  The few people that I know that do reload them only reload one time.

 

When you say they fail your chamber checker, what part of the hull fails? The base, the body or the crimp area.

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First, you have to have a good load that isn't too short or too tall of a column.

 

Then you have to have at least 30 pounds of wad pressure when you load the wads. This is due to the two piece design of the "new" hulls.

 

Then you have to experiment a little with the crimp, but it can be done and I've had good luck - but with a MEC 650.

The MEC instructions are pretty good about this if read carefully.

Also, do a search on Youtube.com for how-tos.  There should be something to help.

 

Maybe this one:

Crimp Adjustment

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFdejFuOr-M

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJu1o_Y-T1E&list=PLLki88II4oTsgZ-gT60yr80G1nmEXxBDt&index=5

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VusbIuRPGm4

 

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1 hour ago, Sedalia Dave said:

I quit using AA hulls for the issues you describe.  The few people that I know that do reload them only reload one time.

 

 

 

Guess I'm one of the lucky ones.....

 

I've reloaded buckets of them four or five times and have never had trouble with anything going in or coming out of the chamber.

 

Those were all reloaded with the actual AA Featherlite powder that is no longer available. My cans all went empty last year.

 

I use an old MEC 600 Junior that has a lot of miles on it.

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I reload on an old Mec Grabber..

I reload AA's only for 7-8 years..

I use the gray Claybuster wads with 7/8 oz. of  shot..

I use the old Featherlight recipe..

Mine crimp fine..

Question.. Is the pink wad designed for 3/4 oz. of shot?

I started with pink wads and went to gray??

 

Rance;)

Thinkin' I ain't a professional reloader :blink:

 

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2 minutes ago, Rance - SASS # 54090 said:

 

I use the gray Claybuster wads with 7/8 oz. of  shot

 

Question.. Is the pink wad designed for 3/4 oz. of shot?

I started with pink wads and went to gray??

 

 

I think the pink wad is for 1 oz....

 

I've always used gray for 7/8 of an ounce

 

 

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5 hours ago, Rance - SASS # 54090 said:

 

Question.. Is the pink wad designed for 3/4 oz. of shot?

 

I started with pink wads and went to gray??

 

Rance;)

Thinkin' I ain't a professional reloader :blink:

 

 

5 hours ago, Fence Cutter said:

 

I think the pink wad is for 1 oz....

 

I've always used gray for 7/8 of an ounce

 

 

 

Depends,  Wad colors are no longer a good indication of actual use.

The CB0175-12 is pink in color and is for 3/4 loads.

The CB0178-12 is gray in color and is for 7/8 oz loads.

The CB1100-12 is pink in color and is for 7/8 to 1 1/8 loads

 

The two pink wads are different shades of pink but both are still pink.

 

The problem with the Winchester AAs is that they now use a two piece hull design that was in theory replicate the 1 piece design but lower manufacturing costs. For their production machines and proprietary wads this may be true but with all the quality issues that keep being reported it sure doesn't appear to the the case

For those that reload the two piece design  has turned out to be an issue. The best bet is to buy wads that have been redesigned specifically to work with the new design. The base of the redesigned wads have a bevel on the outside to help them clear the internal lip that is a by product new two piece design.

 

In theory plastic wads need very little pressure to seat them however' the new 2 piece AAs can benefit for increased wad pressure to ensure that the wad does not get hung up on the internal lip and fail to properly seat on the powder. The down side is that this can also result in the mid section of the wad  bulging outward. Too much pressure can also cause the cushion section of the wad to deform and change the overall height. This will result in poor crimps or crimps that open up after the shell has been stored a while.

 

What is the difference between the Original Winchester AA and the new "High Strength" hulls?

 

 

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I use

The CB0175-12 is pink in color and is for 3/4 loads

and YES after time the crimp opens up, little bb's are all over.

 

so does anyone know the specifics of the redesigned wads that work?

 

 

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Are you loading powder that matches a published load?  

 

Quote

so does anyone know the specifics of the redesigned wads that work

 

In general, the Winchester-compatible wads are made for a "tapered wall" hull.   AFAIK, no wads were redesigned just for the new HS winchester hulls.   Claybusters in particular did not make adjustments to their designs - they claim their wads work in both the old compression and new HS hulls..

 

In the new HS hulls, you get bulges in the hull walls when you use a small volume (weight) of powder.   Like some cowboy shooters try to do by trying to make really light shotshells.  The short height of the powder in the hull lets the edge of the wad catch the lip of the base wad, usually the wad bends inward and causes no problem.   But if it bends radially outward, it pushes into the hull wall and bulges the wall outward.   So, the solution is to use a published load and a bulky (low density) powder - like Clays to make sure the wad lips never run into the base wad. 

 

Here's a Hodgdon published load with 3/4 oz shot and your CB wad:

Hodgdon Clays  powder  15.8 grains
CB 0175-12 wad
3/4 ounce shot
Win. 209 primer

7100 PSI

1,150 FPS
 
I've loaded that load very successfully.  
 
How does that compare to your load?
 
Good luck, GJ

 

 

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27 minutes ago, wyliefoxEsquire said:

I use

The CB0175-12 is pink in color and is for 3/4 loads

and YES after time the crimp opens up, little bb's are all over.

 

so does anyone know the specifics of the redesigned wads that work?

 

 

 

Buy an adjustable charge bar. That way you can adjust the shot charge up or down the get the stack height just right.

 

Personally I'll never own a shot shell press that doesn't have one. 

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Hey Joe G,

Clays 14.5 grains

3/4 oz 7.5 shot

CB 0175-12 wad

 

 

To all, yes I agree the problem is the wad not seating.

Bulges

poor crimps

crimps loosen after time

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9 hours ago, Rance - SASS # 54090 said:

I reload on an old Mec Grabber..

I reload AA's only for 7-8 years..

I use the gray Claybuster wads with 7/8 oz. of  shot..

I use the old Featherlight recipe..

Mine crimp fine..

Question.. Is the pink wad designed for 3/4 oz. of shot?

I started with pink wads and went to gray??

 

Rance;)

Thinkin' I ain't a professional reloader :blink:

 

What do you use for powder?

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16 hours ago, Rance - SASS # 54090 said:

I reload on an old Mec Grabber..

I reload AA's only for 7-8 years..

I use the gray Claybuster wads with 7/8 oz. of  shot..

I use the old Featherlight recipe..

Mine crimp fine..

Question.. Is the pink wad designed for 3/4 oz. of shot?

I started with pink wads and went to gray??

 

Rance;)

Thinkin' I ain't a professional reloader :blink:

 

 

What powder do you now use to replace the Featherlite that's no longer available?

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I load 12 gauge AA hulls on both a MEC 600 jr or 650. I use gray CB 7/8 oz wads over Win AA powder. I like the load, they shuck very well out of the SxS, but I always have this small hole on the middle of the crimp just large enough that shot can come out. I just throw in a 20 ga. over shot card before the crimp. Problem solved.....

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I'm loading the AA low recoil hauls on either a MEC JR or a Posness Warren using a MEC #22 powder bushing with Alliant Extra-Lite,  1 ounce charge bar on the MEC and Claybuster CB1100-12 wads with 40 pounds of wad pressure.  I can go to a #26 powder bushing without crimp issues, but beyond that they will start opening up. These are the loads I used at ROOP and the state WB match recently. It took forever to come up with a load that maintained it's crimp.

 

Getting the column height correct is the main issue to achieving a good crimp regardless of the load.

 

 

 

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15 minutes ago, Tully Mars said:

It took forever to come up with a load that maintained it's crimp.

 

Getting the column height correct is the main issue to achieving a good crimp regardless of the load.

 

 

That's why the adjustable charge bar is worth every penny. You can vary the shot charge plus or minus a 1/16th of an ounce to get the stack height correct.

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1 hour ago, High Spade Mikey Wilson said:

always have this small hole on the middle of the crimp just large enough that shot can come out

 

That can usually be solved very quickly by lowering the CRIMP STARTER die a little.   Just the starter - not the main crimp die.  

 

Good luck, GJ

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12 hours ago, Boulder Canyon Bob# 32052L said:

What do you use for powder?

 

5 hours ago, Fence Cutter said:

 

What powder do you now use to replace the Featherlite that's no longer available?

 

I still have about a half jug of the original Winchester Featherlite powder..

I lucked out and bought 2 jugs right before they stopped production..

Lucky me:D

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