Italian Jim Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 Folks, I could use some help on this head-scratcher. I've had my fair share of Italian copies over the years - Uberti, Pietta, and now two Armi San Marcos. The latest ASM is the one that has me doing all the scratching. Found in a pawn shop, this beauty didn't have any other info with it and from the research I've done on the interweb I have yet to find a parts diagram that matches the hammer on this one. You'll see in the pictures of it the hammer has an adjustment screw on the back of the spur and a cylinder in the hammer face that it adjusts that appears to set the depth of the strike of the firing pin that is captive in the frame? Is anyone out there familiar with this setup or can provide some history on this? The only markings on this revolver, aside from the SN, is "38 SPECIAL" stamped above the wedge screw and "ASM Traditions" under the barrel about even with the ejector rod. Timing and lockup are all good, have put several rounds through and it shoots great EXCEPT that it was misfiring at first. The first day at the range I noticed the adjustment screw and on my next trip to the range, armed with a jewelers screwdriver I played with the adjustment a bit. I started at what I believe was halfway in (tried to back the screw out as far as I could without releasing it then counted the turns in) then started shooting cylinders of light .38 cowboy loads. It wasn't until I had the screw bottomed out that it would guarantee to fire every round in the cylinder consistently. Although at that depth, when inspecting the primers, the pin strikes are very deep almost to the point of looking like a blown (punctured) primer. Finally, after firing 2-3 cylinders through I also noticed the screw slowly seems to back itself out a bit. So, hoping someone out there might know the history of this old piece and can impart some tips to fix the situation. I'll eventually get around to disassembling the hammer as I see the cross pin that holds the assembly together, I figure it will either come out once the screw is removed and releases any spring tension or it can be drifted out. If I get a better look at the mechanism I'll see if any internals are worn/broken (spring possibly?) and in the end will get the adjustment right then use a little blue locktite to keep the screw from backing out. I just wanted to see if anyone has experience with this so I'm not reinventing the wheel. So if anyone out there has any info or ideas I'm eager to hear them. Thanks all, -Italian Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt. C.J. Sabre, SASS #46770 Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 What you have is not an 1871, but an 1860 Richards Conversion. I have one and is is THE most accurate pistol I've ever fired. These pistols were made this way, but originals were made as follows: The Richards method of converting 1860 Army Colts required a rebounding firing pin, a new breech plate called a conversion ring, and a complex cartridge extractor assembly. The hammer was cut off to function with the conversion ring. Your problem is that the "Safety Screw" in the hammer is worn to the point that it isn't making contact with the firing pin. Since these guns aren't made any more, you're not going to find the part. You've got pretty much two choices; (1) Find an original type hammer, with the firing pine and rear sight notch, and cut it off like they originally did to make the conversion. OR (2) Have the hammer you've got welded up so that the screw isn't there anymore. DISCLAIMER!!! Welding the hammer might be construed as disabling the factory Safety mechanism, proceed at your own risk. In "Last Stand at Sabre River", Tom Selleck carries one of these guns, converted my his wife, who gives a detailed description of the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 When ASM first came out with these I had a pair. That screw was there as an add on safety so they could be imported. All you need to do is back it out and put some Loctite on it. Run it back in to flush. With the hammer setting on the FP you should see about .035 to .045" FP protrusion. If you get light hits there then your headspace is off. Check the wedge. If you drive it in more and it binds up you may need to take some off the spacer. (ASM added a spacer between the cylinder and barrel) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado Coffinmaker Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 The gun is an Armi San Marco. ASM called them an 1860. There not. The conversion was based on a First Model Richards and the gun is based on the 1861 Navy and with the Richards Conversion is a "Never Never." Colt didn't build 1861 Navy conversions. The hammer is designed for two purposes, one is to pass the stupid drop test for import (back the screw out) and to provide positive impact on the firing pin. Based on the guns I own'd and worked on, I found the Main Spring just a bit light and the Firing Pin Return Spring a bit too heavy. I would suggest replacing the Main Spring with one from either VTI Gunparts or the "Lee's Gunsmithing Gunfighter" spring kit from Brownells. Next, Make a new firing pin return spring from the correct diameter Ball Point Pen Spring. Be sure to run the screw thru the hammer all the way in and as NATE said, a drop of Blue LocTite Some of the guns had a spacer between the Cylinder and the Barrel lug. The spacer was intended to stabilize the Head Space and End Shake. Be very careful messing with it. There are NO PARTS for these guns unless you buy a complete gun as a parts source. PLUS ONE too NKJ. Check your head space and your wedge fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Italian Jim Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 Thanks for all the info fellas. A bit of Loctite and problem solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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