Anybody make their own grips?

[Shifty Jack, SASS #65353]

I would like to try my hand at making my own grips, anybody got any knowledge they can impart? Proper terminology for the hardware would be great 

[The Rainmaker, SASS #11631]

Yes and I use a coping saw (yeah, I know, old school) or scroll saw to cut the basic shape (traced from the previous grips); a Dremel with sanding drums in both grits (gotta have it) for rough shaping; files and various grits of sandpaper for final shaping and a drill (I need a drill press) for the grip screw hole. I would love to have a disk/spindle sander as well. The hunt for cool pattern/color woods and other materials is fun. Best of luck.

[cooltouch]

I contoured a set of grips once from a friend's Uberti copy of a Colt Walker Dragoon. This was a kit he had put together, but the grips were just hunks of wood attached to the grip frame. They had already been fitted to the frame, so this saved me a lot of work. So anyway, contouring the grips such that they looked and fit right was very easy. I used a 4-in-hand rasp for most of the work. Once the grips shape had been established, I was able to file them smooth with a fine, half-round file, sand them down to a final 320 grit, then I finished them with TruOil.

 

I just now took the grips off my old Uberti "Regulator," an 1873 SAA clone, to have a look at the internal work that had been done to fit up the grips. Substantial. First thing I realized is that, with this model, there are no "grips." there is only a "grip." It's a single block of wood that is relieved all the way around for the grip frame to fit up into it. But I see no reason why "grips" (emphasis on the 's') can't be installed on this style of firearm. You just need a screw and an escutcheon to hold the pair in place. It also appears to me that, if I were having to fabricate a set of grips by hand that two-piece grips would be much easier to make. And for that reason, that's what I recommend you try. Just scribe lines following the inside and outside of the frame on each piece of wood and let the dust begin to fly.

 

If you try this, make sure that, when you scribe the lines from the grip frame, that the frame is bolted down tightly into place onto the main frame of the pistol. If you don't, the grip frame will tend to relax and spread a bit. If you take measurements from the grip frame when it's in this state, the grips you'll be carving will end up not fitting anything.

 

For tools, I strongly recommend you get yourself a 4-in-hand, if you don't have one already. Go to Amazon and type "4-in-hand" (with quotes) and 'woodworking' and you'll get several hits. Amazon must carry over a half dozen different brands of 4-in-hands, all varying in price, from as cheap as about $4 up to about $20. I also recommend you get yourself a set of wood chisels that you'll use to help carve the ledges into the grips that will fit into the frame. I write "help" because this is also a task that can be largely achieved using a 4-in-hand. The chisels will give you sharp 90 degree corners, though, which the 4-in-hand, because of its design, can't do. You don't have to spend a lot of money on a good set of wood chisels. I have a set of Marples by Irwin that are solid, good chisels, and I didn't pay much for them. And if you're gonna get a set of chisels, you'll also need a way to keep them sharp. This is a topic that can fill up volumes all by itself, so it's something you'll want to research. I recommend you also have a decent fine-toothed half-round file for final smoothing work, and of course sand paper in varying grits. Get yourself some Birchwood Casey's TruOil if you don't have any already, for finishing.

 

As you can see, the method I've outlined above is truly old school. Not one piece of powered equipment is used. And it really isn't needed, either. Unless you have a very steady hand, you can make a quick mess of things with dremels and the like. Doing things the traditional way is steady, but not necessarily slow. And it's kinda satisfying, knowing the grips you've made were something you actually carved out of base materials with simple hand tools.

 

[Warden Callaway]

 

I started with inlet, rough shaped walnut one-piece blanks from Taylor's and Company and ended up with checkered grips.

[The Rainmaker, SASS #11631]

Nice checkering!

[Johnny Longpants]

I make grips for Rugers.  I rough cut the shapes on my band saw then I use my oscillating spindle sander and belt sander to bring them down to the profile I want.  I drill the ferrule mortise and the screw holes on my drill press using a cutter you can get from Brownells.  It aligns the screw hole and mortise.   I then use a wide variety of sand paper to go from about 100 grit all the way to 1200 grit depending on the wood species.  Some of the exotic woods polish beautifully with very fine sand paper.  

 

Then I use a laser cutter to put any customized logos, names, etc into the wood and finish with Tru-Oil.   The leopard wood grips are mine and the Hickory grips were for a friend Outville Slick.  I will add a pic of the finished grips on my guns as well. 

 

 

 

[Dusty Devil Dale]

5 hours ago, The Rainmaker, SASS #11631 said:

Yes and I use a coping saw (yeah, I know, old school) or scroll saw to cut the basic shape (traced from the previous grips); a Dremel with sanding drums in both grits (gotta have it) for rough shaping; files and various grits of sandpaper for final shaping and a drill (I need a drill press) for the grip screw hole. I would love to have a disk/spindle sander as well. The hunt for cool pattern/color woods and other materials is fun. Best of luck.

Grips not as simple as they look, that is for sure.  If you get a drill press, larger sanding drums can save a lot of time.  I started making grips recently, after my search for thicker Vaquero grips came up dry.  I've made several prototype sets, using Holly, Walnut, and Manzanita root burl.  A big problem is making the escuchions small enough not to look obtrusive, but large enough to anchor firmly and not pull out of the wood, as the screws are tightened.   Several sets of commercial grips, including original Ruger grips, had that problem and had to be repaired.  

 

My challenge now is checkering.  That is just plain difficult and tedious, no matter how you cut it (no pun intended).  Any hints would be appreciated.  

 

Here's a photo of an experimental excucheon I'm playing with.  The stainless diamond will be engraved.  The female threaded internal extension is a machined part of the diamond.  I don't know how it will end up looking.  The wood is Holly.  Pls ignore the hideous prototype inletting job.  This was just an experiment. 

[Warden Callaway]

 

19 minutes ago, Dusty Devil Dale said:

My challenge now is checkering.  That is just plain difficult and tedious, no matter how you cut it (no pun intended).  Any hints would be appreciated.  

 

 

 

I used Dem-Bart checkering tools.

[watab kid]

that looks like too intricate of work for my old eyes but i love the idea of making my own scales - one day maybe , 

[Warden Callaway]

26 minutes ago, watab kid said:

that looks like too intricate of work for my old eyes but i love the idea of making my own scales - one day maybe , 

 

I use to do a passable job of checkering many years ago.  But now my hands and eyes play out after about 15 minutes of working at it and I have to put it aside for a while.  I use readings glasses to see the detail.

 

Here is a good tutorial video.

 

 

 

[Doc Shapiro]

I gave up on checkering altogether.  Instead I just use a 1/8 inch chisel and cut the snot out of the wood.  Works great and my hands are happy.  I've also used a sandblaster.  Those grips look fantastic.  Before my hands started shaking (I have a genetic issue with a palsy), I used to make pistol grips out of exotic woods.  It's not hard.  The fit and finish takes the most time.  A drill press for the escutcheon is important. 

[Dusty Devil Dale]

2 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

 

 

 

I used Dem-Bart checkering tools.

Snakebite generously gave me a whole boxfull of Dem Bart and other checkering tools, but I still haven't mastered it.  Impatience just doesn't have any place in checkering. 

Your work looks very nice.   I'm seriously jealous! 

[Shifty Jack, SASS #65353]

10 hours ago, Doc Shapiro said:

I gave up on checkering altogether.  Instead I just use a 1/8 inch chisel and cut the snot out of the wood.  Works great and my hands are happy.  I've also used a sandblaster.  Those grips look fantastic.  Before my hands started shaking (I have a genetic issue with a palsy), I used to make pistol grips out of exotic woods.  It's not hard.  The fit and finish takes the most time.  A drill press for the escutcheon is important. 

 

I remember you showing me a set of grips that you made one time, they really were fantastic.

[Snakebite]

Yes, I had all the tools. I can tell you that I mastered the art of checkering. I learned to send them off and have them Laser cut! Works every time. 

 

Snakebite

[Hashknife Cowboy]

I made 1 pr, time intensive but worth it.  Don’t be in a hurry and follow everyone’s advice.  I made 1 walnut black powder stock, it’s a big project from a blank of wood.  Never again.  Both came out very nice.  Enjoy.....

[Doc Shapiro]

8 hours ago, Shifty Jack, SASS #65353 said:

 

I remember you showing me a set of grips that you made one time, they really were fantastic.

 

Thanks!  As I said, they aren't hard to make.  Get some cheap ply and start experimenting.  It won't take long to work it out.

 

Doc

[Zach Taylor,SASS#14359]

I have found to prevent the screw from pulling through from over tightening , is to put a piece of auto vacuum tube in between the two grips ,passing the screw through it. Just cut the tube slightly larger than the frame, it will stop over tightening unless you have a hand like Kong. This really works.

[Dusty Devil Dale]

8 hours ago, Zach Taylor,SASS#14359 said:

I have found to prevent the screw from pulling through from over tightening , is to put a piece of auto vacuum tube in between the two grips ,passing the screw through it. Just cut the tube slightly larger than the frame, it will stop over tightening unless you have a hand like Kong. This really works.

Super idea.  Shoulda though of that myself.  It's waaaaaaay easier than trying to make custom machined  escutcheon inserts, and much better looking in the end, I suspect.  Thank you for sharing.  

[Snakebite]

10 hours ago, Zach Taylor,SASS#14359 said:

I have found to prevent the screw from pulling through from over tightening , is to put a piece of auto vacuum tube in between the two grips ,passing the screw through it. Just cut the tube slightly larger than the frame, it will stop over tightening unless you have a hand like Kong. This really works.

I have been doing a similar thing for years but used the body of a ink pin cut to length, or any round plastic tube. If it is the right length it stops over tightening. 

[Warden Callaway]

 

The Colt we bought last winter already had spider cracks around the escutcheons.   I did some repair and glued on thin washers and cut a length of copper tube to keep them from splitting again. 

[Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967]

On 8/17/2019 at 2:29 PM, cooltouch said:

 

For tools, I strongly recommend you get yourself a 4-in-hand, if you don't have one already. 

 

 

Cool, I think you mean "4-in-one..." 

 

"Four-in-hand" is a necktie knot.   

 

 

[beacon]

On 8/18/2019 at 5:31 AM, Warden Callaway said:

 

I started with inlet, rough shaped walnut one-piece blanks from Taylor's and Company and ended up with checkered grips.

That turns out excellent! Great job

[Duffield, SASS #23454]

Set the cutting head on the Dem Bart tools to cut on the pull stroke.  It made checkering a lot easier for me.

 

Duffield

[Dusty Devil Dale]

3 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

The Colt we bought last winter already had spider cracks around the escutcheons.   I did some repair and glued on thin washers and cut a length of copper tube to keep them from splitting again. 

I guess I'm the only one who has been struggling along with this escutcheon problem.   Seems like the solution was both simple and obvious to just about everyone else. 

That's what's good about this forum.  Good ideas shared by people who actually know how to do, make, or fix something.   

 Thanks everyone.  

[cooltouch]

On 8/19/2019 at 7:49 PM, Hardpan Curmudgeon SASS #8967 said:

 

Cool, I think you mean "4-in-one..." 

 

"Four-in-hand" is a necktie knot.   

 

 

Never heard of a four-in-hand necktie knot. But if you do a google search of "4 in hand" and "rasp" you'll get hits. Here's a Nicholson at Amazon:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Half-Round-American-Pattern-Length/dp/B000VBAIM8/ref=pd_sbs_469_2/132-4596450-1243226?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000VBAIM8&pd_rd_r=b8b42a96-3ffc-4023-b3a9-d9891337ddea&pd_rd_w=yUTRS&pd_rd_wg=wvXnd&pf_rd_p=1c11b7ff-9ffb-4ba6-8036-be1b0afa79bb&pf_rd_r=KHHZVGQJNFMVH2FQZQFM&psc=1&refRID=KHHZVGQJNFMVH2FQZQFM

 

Since you mentioned 4-in-one, though, I did notice some that were named such. I suspect that 4-in-hand is the more traditional term, though. The woodworker has four files in his hand. The tool and die maker would probably think up 4-in-one, since it is one tool with four different rasp surfaces.

[Cactus Jack Calder]

On 9/3/2019 at 4:50 PM, cooltouch said:

Never heard of a four-in-hand necktie knot. But if you do a google search of "4 in hand" and "rasp" you'll get hits. 

Cooltouch,

Just google 4-in-hand knot. You will get videos on how to tie a four-in-hand knot. It is a quick asymmetrical neck tie knot. The more formal Full Windsor is symmetrical and fills the collar opening better. I think the clip-on tie has made tying a neck tie obsolete. But us old birds had to learn these thinks in 6th grade before we could ask a girl to the dance.

 

cJ

[Yul Lose]

On 9/3/2019 at 1:50 PM, cooltouch said:

Never heard of a four-in-hand necktie knot. But if you do a google search of "4 in hand" and "rasp" you'll get hits. Here's a Nicholson at Amazon:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Half-Round-American-Pattern-Length/dp/B000VBAIM8/ref=pd_sbs_469_2/132-4596450-1243226?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000VBAIM8&pd_rd_r=b8b42a96-3ffc-4023-b3a9-d9891337ddea&pd_rd_w=yUTRS&pd_rd_wg=wvXnd&pf_rd_p=1c11b7ff-9ffb-4ba6-8036-be1b0afa79bb&pf_rd_r=KHHZVGQJNFMVH2FQZQFM&psc=1&refRID=KHHZVGQJNFMVH2FQZQFM

 

Since you mentioned 4-in-one, though, I did notice some that were named such. I suspect that 4-in-hand is the more traditional term, though. The woodworker has four files in his hand. The tool and die maker would probably think up 4-in-one, since it is one tool with four different rasp surfaces.

That’s what I’ve always called the ones that I use, four in hand. 

[Nate Kiowa Jones #6765]

 

 

 

 

To me making two piece grips is harder than one piece. For the Colt and Ruger you will need to drill the grip frame for a grip stabilizing pin.  Notice the pin on the lower part of the trigger guard frame

 

Most clones don't have it and will require drilling the frame and grips for it. 

 

 

the one piece is much easier if you just make a spacer like the one here;

 

You just sand it to the same thickness as the grip frame then glue the three parts.

 

Shaping and fitting is much easier on the brass grip frames. Just sand the brass too. Then polish it back.

 

Works for stainless too.

 

My worst experience making grips were these black water buffalo horn grips with ivory and turquoise inlays. Grinding and polishing these stank up my shop for months and it seem like it was up my nose for days. 

 

 

[Yul Lose]

8 hours ago, Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 said:

 

 

 

 

To me making two piece grips is harder than one piece. For the Colt and Ruger you will need to drill the grip frame for a grip stabilizing pin.  Notice the pin on the lower part of the trigger guard frame

 

Most clones don't have it and will require drilling the frame and grips for it. 

 

 

the one piece is much easier if you just make a spacer like the one here;

 

You just sand it to the same thickness as the grip frame then glue the three parts.

 

Shaping and fitting is much easier on the brass grip frames. Just sand the brass too. Then polish it back.

 

Works for stainless too.

 

My worst experience making grips were these black water buffalo horn grips with ivory and turquoise inlays. Grinding and polishing these stank up my shop for months and it seem like it was up my nose for days. 

 

 

Beautiful!!!

[levi littleton]

Agreed one piece are easier.  And a much better fit if you can cut to the grip frame then refinish the metal.

https://www.coltforum.com/forums/single-action-army/342815-quick-photo-essay-fitting-grips.html

 

Altamont blanks

 

Resin+ S cut from blanks

 

 

One piece walnut from Dave Lanara's inlet blocks