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Long shot...Does anyone know who makes 1866 loading gates?


Stopsign32v

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Possible?  Yes.    A smith could probably either heat and flatten, or weld/solder on a plate to a factory gate.    Then reinforce the perpendicular tab because whatever metal work had been done probably toasted the already-weak tab on a 66 gate.

 

Functional?  No where near as easy to load as the factory "gutter" design.  Noses of rounds will skid all over the flat surface.

 

But one made for sale?  Never seen it.

 

Good luck, GJ

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I would suggest here for the easier to load version.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/499/1/WIN-66-GATE-B

 

Looks like you have the large screw version.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/499/1/WIN-66-GATE-B-L

OLG

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3 minutes ago, Marshal Hangtree said:

Just out of curiosity, Stopsign, why would you want a flat one?

 

Because that is what came on the original. Not sure why Uberti didn't go all the way. Seems like an amazingly small detail that would be cheap(er) to get correct.

 

Uberti_Winchester_1866_Yellowboy_9.JPG?i

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1 minute ago, Stopsign32v said:

 

Because that is what came on the original. Not sure why Uberti didn't go all the way. 

 

Because a flat loading gate would be a royal pain in the butt to load the first round, that little round spot really does help.

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5 hours ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

 

Lumpy,  That rifle pictured is an ORIGINAL ..... not a Replicant.  Much bigger screw and from the OTHER side  :rolleyes:

 

FORGOT:   PLUS ONE too Garrison Joe

 

Chill our Francis....:rolleyes:

I know-He used the pic as an example of the loading gate and the OP clearly stated Uberti. <_<

Carry on,

OLG

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1 minute ago, Tyrel Cody said:

 

Because a flat loading gate would be a royal pain in the butt to load the first round, that little round spot really does help.

 

Wanna talk about a pain loading the first round. Try a lightly used 1970's Marlin 1894. Dang things will take some of your finger with them. 

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20 hours ago, Stopsign32v said:

I'm wanting to see if it is possible for anyone to make a flat loading gate like below for a Uberti.

 

WINCHESTER-1866-FIRST-MODEL-FLAT-SIDE-CA

You had to go and post a picture of an original didn't you? What I wouldn't give for one of those, and a lifetime supply of ammo to feed it

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1 minute ago, El Hombre Sin Nombre said:

You had to go and post a picture of an original didn't you? What I wouldn't give for one of those, and a lifetime supply of ammo to feed it

 

I'm with ya there. 

 

Actually I just wish someone would make a copy of the original .44 Henry in center fire and then make a copy of the original for that caliber. 

 

I mean my thought is people that buy reproductions of firearms are not going to be worried with having to reload for the ammo. 

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7 minutes ago, Stopsign32v said:

 

Wanna talk about a pain loading the first round. Try a lightly used 1970's Marlin 1894. Dang things will take some of your finger with them. 

 

Hard Pass. My son shot 1894C for the first 5 years he played this game until I left it at home one match last summer and forced him to shoot an 1873; now he wants me to sell it and get another 73'.

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16 minutes ago, Stopsign32v said:

 

Wanna talk about a pain loading the first round. Try a lightly used 1970's Marlin 1894. Dang things will take some of your finger with them. 

It's an easy fix.......

Re-arch the loading gate 'lever' arm some, and de-burr the forward inside edge of the loading gate.

Clean the inside of the mag tube and trim a few coils off the mag spring.

OLG

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28 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

It's an easy fix.......

Re-arch the loading gate 'lever' arm some, and de-burr the forward inside edge of the loading gate.

Clean the inside of the mag tube and trim a few coils off the mag spring.

OLG

 

What do you mean re-arch the loading gate lever arm? I will probably deburr the inside of the loading gate. And I always cut the coil main springs on my Marlins and only leave 3 inches hanging out.

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The arm the loading gate mounting screw attaches to in the loading gate.

Take the loading gate out, and you'll see the arch of the 'spring-arm' that's built in.

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/f406193

 

 

OLG

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8 minutes ago, Stopsign32v said:

So basically take some of the arch out? Wouldn't that leave the loading gate 'sunken in' and have a gap?

Baby steps-You just want to reduce the tension some is all. It's a T&E deal for sure.

I've done this to many M/94's over the years. 

When finished-Use loctite on the little screw.

OLG

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Lots of work re-arcing a flat gun spring, and it may not "hold" the new arc.   Thin the metal, or hourglass it, until you get the tension you want.  All my 73 Ubertis have loading gates that have been hourglassed (grinding lightly on the edges of the spring to about 2/3 or original width at the center of the spring section, leaving no sharp corners or deep scratches).   Doing that does not change the position of the gate a bit.

 

Good luck, GJ

 

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12 minutes ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

Lots of work re-arcing a flat gun spring, and it may not "hold" the new arc.   Thin the metal, or hourglass it, until you get the tension you want.  All my 73 Ubertis have loading gates that have been hourglassed (grinding lightly on the edges of the spring to about 2/3 or original width at the center of the spring section, leaving no sharp corners or deep scratches).   Doing that does not change the position of the gate a bit.

 

Good luck, GJ

 

The hour-glass is one way-NOT the only way.

I have re-arch dozens over the yrs. No complaints yet.

With the hour-glass deal-You can't put the metal back on, that is ground off

BUT-you can re-arch the spring to increase the gate tension against the rec'r

OLG

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