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Chewey

1897 Winchester Ejector Pin Question

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I have a recently new to me 1897 that gave my son some grief last weekend.  After the first shot on his first stage the bolt assembly failed to travel far enough to the rear to allow the spent hull to eject.  After getting it taken apart at home it seems that culprit was a wobbling extractor pin that was no longer pressed tight to the receiver.  In looking at the pin that fits into the receiver it looks like it is slightly bent and no longer looks like a perfect “T”.  In looking at the hole it fits into it seems that it is now an oval on the inside of the receiver.  Before pressing in a new extractor pin, I wanted to see if anyone knows if the hole should be slightly oval or not? If if it should be straight, any suggestions on how to go about getting it repaired?

 

Below are a couple pictures of what seems to be a deformed ejector pin hole as well as a picture of the slightly bent old ejector.  Thanks in advance for any advice you all may have!

13D243A5-D3B3-405D-96A5-6EC70D7545A8.jpeg

4E82B1F9-E6F9-4FF2-A085-EDC046ADC06A.jpeg

06391650-5BAF-438B-BC8E-71BB259D6D21.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

The extractors are in the bolt-Not the rec'r.

That is the ejector and the limit block. Have never seen one come loose like that. :o

Is this a REAL Win 97, or import?

 

OLG

Edited by The Original Lumpy Gritz
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Posted (edited)

Chewey that part is the ejector pin which goes into the small hole. Also as Lumpy pointed out is that a Winchester or the Import??

Sent you a PM pilgrim.

 

Jackrabbit Joe

Edited by Jackrabbit Joe #414
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OLG - yup I incorrectly said extractor in places in my post.  It is indeed the ejector. I must not have had  enough coffee today....

 

It’s a D series Winchester serial number 352,XXX.  I’ve been prowling the internet the past week and have only run across this issue in a couple posts from several years ago.  

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Chewey sent you a PM.

 

 

JRJ

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Ok Chewey good job pilgrim. Let us know how it goes.

 

 

JRJ

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Posted (edited)
49 minutes ago, Jackrabbit Joe #414 said:

Ok Chewey good job pilgrim. Let us know how it goes.

 

 

JRJ

 

JJ-PLZ tell us your fix after the rec'r hole clean up.

I would have use Brownells low temp silver solder here.

OLG

Edited by The Original Lumpy Gritz

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Is like to see the left side of the bolt.

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Phantom - here are a few pics of the left side of the bolt.  Looking at the bottom there seems to be some damage and a burr where the old wobbled our ejector pin might have impacted the bolt when the failure occurred and when we repeatedly tried to pump out the spent shell.

 

I disassembled the bolt except for the right extractor.  I found that the left extractor tail had broken off in the past.  I assume it has been broken for a while since the surface of the break was not shiny but had a decent amount of residue built up on it.  We had run maybe 100 rounds through the gun since we purchased it with no problem but I had been mildly concerned that the spent hulls only elected about a foot.  I have already purchased a new left extractor from Cowboys and Indian to install once I figure out my ejector pin hole issue.  Thanks and let me know if you want to see something more specific on the bolt.

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1190EF28-C29D-4A1C-9DF1-D66BAB1450A2.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

From what I see-That's not bad. Fixable........

Take a stone, and 'break' the edges and corners in the channel below the extractor.

What have you done, to remount that 'pin'?

OLG

 

Edited by The Original Lumpy Gritz

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Nothing yet on the pin hole... was thinking of maybe using a dab of silver solder paste, pressing in the new ejector, cleaning out any excess paste that oozes out, carefully heating up the exposed parts of the ejector pin with a soldering iron to melt the solder paste around and then cleaning that up again with a stone.  

 

Just enough solder to fill the gaps to prevent the wobble.

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Posted (edited)

Would take quite a soldering gun to melt true silver solder.   Usually takes a good oxy-acetelyne torch.

 

Brownells Hi-Force 44 low temp solder will possibly work like that, though a propane or MAPP gas torch is more commonly used.  It's a 96% tin, 4% silver solder.  Be sure to flux real well with the proper flux made for the solder and hold pressure on the pin as you heat it.

 

And, yes, you will want to clean up the burr that the old pin raised up in the ejector runway of the bolt.  Also any burr around the pin hole - as you want the ejector backup pin to sit tight against the receiver wall so there is maximum solder strength.

 

Here's some good tips on learning to solder well with Brownell's HiForce solders (either the low temp or higher temp version)

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/40250-soldering-problem

 

Good luck, GJ

Edited by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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Your standard soldering gun, will not work for any form of silver solder.

Have you tried to find a replacement 'pin'? I sure would.

He's a fellow you should call........

https://classicoldwestarms.com/

 

The owner is a SASS member/merchant.

OLG

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Chewey sent you pm.

 

JRJ

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