Allie Mo, SASS No. 25217 Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 I have the following C&B pistols. I only shoot three-stage Plainsman Side Matches, as that is all of the cylinders I have. (Two sets of spares and one set in the guns.) Lately, Plainsman side matches are infrequent and I have trouble changing the cylinders. Also, I only shoot side matches that allow me to cock with the off hand and then shoot duelist. C&B and Duelist style (GF too) aren't fun for people with arthritic hands. PS Hubby casts round ball for me. PPS If they had a Bisley or lower hammer, I wouldn't have to cock with the off hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bisley Joe Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 7 hours ago, Springfield Slim SASS #24733 said: Bisley Joe; If you aren't set up for casting just buy the balls. You can get .380 balls and the EPP-UG in 36 caliber from www.whyteleatherworks.com You could try the EPP's and see if you like them. I shoot 1851's in 44. I just use balls, haven't found I miss any more than when I shoot my cartridge guns. And I just put some of my BP lube over the balls, no wads. Just too cheap to buy or make wads and I already have the lube. Everybody tells me it doesn't go down the barrel and just sprays all over the front of the cylinder. Maybe, but I feel it keeps the front of the arbor lubed also. In any case, I can shoot 6 stages without any binding, so I am OK with it. I did switch all 4 of mine to Treso nipples, as they were much more consistent in size then the originals. Yeah, I'm leaning towards a six cavity .38 ball mold. But before that I'm doing what you said: just getting some .38 balls and have at it. Thank you for the link and the advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bisley Joe Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 6 hours ago, Allie Mo, SASS No. 25217 said: I have the following C&B pistols. I only shoot three-stage Plainsman Side Matches, as that is all of the cylinders I have. (Two sets of spares and one set in the guns.) Lately, Plainsman side matches are infrequent and I have trouble changing the cylinders. Also, I only shoot side matches that allow me to cock with the off hand and then shoot duelist. C&B and Duelist style (GF too) aren't fun for people with arthritic hands. PS Hubby casts round ball for me. PPS If they had a Bisley or lower hammer, I wouldn't have to cock with the off hand. That is a beautiful pistol! Been thinking of something like that for my wife. But I figure I'll take her to a big match, after notifying them ahead of time, to see if she can try out as many as possible. Have you thought of lightening the hammer spring-if that's possible? Would SASS allow a modified/Bisley-style hammer on something like that? If you're having trouble due to arthritis, they should allow it, in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bisley Joe Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 Just now, Bisley Joe said: That is a beautiful pistol! Been thinking of something like that for my wife. But I figure I'll take her to a big match, after notifying them ahead of time, to see if she can try out as many as possible. Or I could just buy a brace of pistols for her anyway-then if she doesn't really like them, I have an excuse to by another brace, and so on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyrel Cody Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 16 minutes ago, Bisley Joe said: Would SASS allow a modified/Bisley-style hammer on something like that? Yes. There are a few gunsmiths that offer that service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Slim SASS #24733 Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 LEE didn't use to sell the 6 cavity ball moulds, I bought mine through Track of the Wolf. they seem to be made by LEE, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyrel Cody Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 Coming soon to a range near me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bisley Joe Posted June 20, 2019 Author Share Posted June 20, 2019 2 hours ago, Springfield Slim SASS #24733 said: LEE didn't use to sell the 6 cavity ball moulds, I bought mine through Track of the Wolf. they seem to be made by LEE, though. That's where I saw them: Track of the Wolf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokey Dave Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 13 hours ago, Tyrel Cody said: Coming soon to a range near me You've got that cap rake install down to a science TC! Nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyrel Cody Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 1 hour ago, Smokey Dave said: You've got that cap rake install down to a science TC! Nice work! Thanks, the right tools, a steady hand with a dremel, some patience(no idea where I found that), and some tips from Coffinmaker, make it easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catlow4697 Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 Tyrel You did a fine job with those guns but you didn't listen to all of what Coffinmaker said. That part where you cut those barrels to about 3 inches and then shoot gunfighter. Just remenber that Size matters . You get more style points with the snubbies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado Coffinmaker Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 PLUS ONE CATLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sourdoughjim Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 Howdy! I am 2 days new to SASS Wire and have been trying to learn about the CAS craft, especially as it concerns C&B revolvers. I don't do CAS, don't intend to, but I do know my way around 1851 Navy guns, original or replica (I have 8 of them in various "types": G&G, S&G, L&R, R&A, CFMC, AMW, 2nd Model, 4th Model, all Pietta). I thought I would insert a few comments/observations here. As I understand SASS rules, one cannot walk around with a loaded/capped cylinder, even in the safety position with the hammer down between chambers (as a user of one would do if not at a CAS match). The cap sucking issue lies mainly around the vertical slot/groove in the hammer face, which tends to attract fired caps/cap fragments driven into that recess when the pistol is fired. Its sole purpose is to provide a recess for the safety pins on the rear of the cylinder between chambers. Some folks will install a post/cap "rake" on the frame between the recoil shield "ears" to prevent this as it takes up nearly all of the space in the hammer recess, but obviates the use of the safety pins. If one does not carry the pistol with all 6 chambers loaded, there is no need for the slot to be there. The easier fix is that it can be filled with JB Weld (or similar material) and trimmed to match the hammer and the problem will go away. Colt's use of the safety pins, which were somewhat fragile and easily broken), meant that the bolt was depressed against the cylinder when in the safety position, which actually caused undue stress on the trigger/bolt spring, resulting in premature failure of that spring in many pistols. The original Confederate Leech & Rigdon revolvers had the cylinder safety pins up until S/N ~1100 when Thomas Leech dissolved his partnership with Charles Rigdon. From that approximate point Rigdon & Ansley fulfilled the balance of the 1500 gun L&R Confederate contract using cylinders with no safety pins and no slot in the hammer face. At S/N ~1500 Rigdon & Ansley continued to produce the revolver but with a smooth hammer face and a 12-stop-slot cylinder until S/N ~2400 near the end of the ACW. IMO, the 12-stop-slot cylinder (patented in 1856 by the Manhattan Firearms Company) was a much better safety arrangement, but since Colt could not infringe on the Manhattan patent the 1860 Army and 1861 Navy had the safety pins and 6-stop-slot cylinders. A couple of years ago I procured a barely used Pietta 1851 Navy .36 smooth (non-roll-engraved) cylinder with no safety pins for $25 and had my machinist neighbor mill an extra 6 stop slots into the cylinder for $50. I filled in the hammer slot and viola! No cap jams and easy on the trigger/bolt spring. SASS probably would not let me shoot this because they have probably never seen an R&A before. My Pietta Rigdon & Ansley with my Pietta Griswold & Gunnison: Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45 Dragoon Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 Welcome Sourdough! Nice looking revolvers. What I've observed from others that install cap posts/rakes as a service (including myself) is that the post/rake is narrowed to fit the slot that's already in the hammer. That being the case, there is no reason the "safety slot" can't still be used as intended (meaning it still can trap a pin just as it did before ). The post not only removes any trapped fragments from the slot as the hammer is drawn back, it also is a physical barrier that blocks any fragments that may be loose and could fall down the hammer slot. Even with the lighter loads folks shoot in competition, a cap can be blown loose and with no barrier, it's a straight shot down into the action. That being the case, I've solved that possibility as well with the advent of the "action shield". It covers the action in the hammer slot and with its hooked end, will keep presenting any fragments each time the hammer is drawn. All the user has to do is turn the revolver over and the debris will fall out. It's very effective at keeping the action clear of debris and fouling. As far as the bolt being in the down position and putting pressure on the bolt spring, this is more of a problem for a much too heavy bolt spring. You only need 3-4 lbs. tension for the bolt to opperate properly. Many of the Italian S.A.s have as much as 7-9 lbs tension which leads to " trenches " dug on cylinders , cams being cut off the hammer and the heavy springs themselves are more likely to break from the excessive tension (saplings bend, Oaks break). I take the flat spring problem out altogether by installing coil springs in the actions. They can be individually tuned for their specific job and are much more forgiving when under pressure (such as a hammer down between chambers). My converted open tops have all the chambers stuffed with cartridges and the hammer down on the firing pin between chambers (Kirsts). Never had a spring problem (flat or coil). Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E.B. Rawton Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 On 6/15/2019 at 4:46 PM, Colorado Coffinmaker said: John E. B ..... For the on the clock one round reload ..... that's load 6 CHAMBERS, then cap the 6th chamber ......................... Good catch there Coffin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.