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CZ-USA Hammered Coach gun question


Bugler

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Those of you that lighten the hammer springs....did you replace them or grind down the sides to lighten it. If you replaced them where were your springs coming from and what weight did you order? I don't know the stock spring weight, but it is very hefty to say the least. I cannot cock both hammers at once...no way!

 

Bugler

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2 minutes ago, Bugler said:

Those of you that lighten the hammer springs....did you replace them or grind down the sides to lighten it. If you replaced them where were your springs coming from and what weight did you order? I don't know the stock spring weight, but it is very hefty to say the least. I cannot cock both hammers at once...no way!

 

Bugler

 

Mine are factory stock and just fine with me.  I cock both with one stroke with my left hand. 

 

Check with CZ-USA and see if you can get a new set.  Maybe the newer ones are lighter. 

 

Last spring we bought a used Liberty hammer double built same as the CZ-USA and the springs had been lightened by grinding.  We got failures to fire half the time. I replaced the ground springs with new springs from CZ-USA. 

 

 

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I ground the factory springs using a drum sander. I ground the spring thinner, not narrower and judged my progress with a trigger pull gauge while working. One leg of the spring is the hammer force and the other lim is the rebound. You have to work them both. I do not remember what pull weight I ended up with butt I can cock the hammers easily and I don’t have misfires.

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A friend of mine is a custom flintlock rifle builder and the lock mechanism is quite similar, his suggestion was to anneal the existing springs and then re-temper.

 

Anyone ever used this method?

 

Bugler

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1 hour ago, Bugler said:

A friend of mine is a custom flintlock rifle builder and the lock mechanism is quite similar, his suggestion was to anneal the existing springs and then re-temper.

 

Anyone ever used this method?

 

Pretty risky for someone who does not have 5 years or more of leaf spring making.   Besides, retempering will put the spring back close to what strength it had before you started on it.  Same amount of steel is still there.   Trying to get a different temper on the spring, when you don't KNOW the tempering technique and base metal that the factory used, is very unlikely to be successful the first 5 times, I'd bet.

 

Much simpler and less equipment and less risk by grinding.   Taking the width of a leaf spring down a little at a time is more accurate and safer than taking thickness down.  Order one set of springs from factory, work on them.  Keep your originals as backups that can be put back in if you need to shoot a match and the new ones are not yet done.

 

Good luck, GJ

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