Sedalia Dave Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 Looking for lighter hammer springs for an 1860 revolver and an 1858 revolver. Stock springs are 99.9% reliable but take more effort to cock. The lighter springs sold for SAA work if everything is perfect. When its not perfect then they don't. Does anyone make something in between? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bittertrigger Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 If you find some let me know I had to do my own tuning on mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-BAR #18287 Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 Putting some sort of spacer between the base of the hammer spring and the frame can make a big difference using the original factory spring. A washer or little piece of leather with a hole for the screw to go through can be dramatic. Remember the hammer not only pops the cap but also holds the cap on the nipple when the powder ignites. Going light on the hammer spring can allow more blowback and cap jams unless you have a cap rake on the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G W Wade Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 A 100 year old problem with a 100 year old fix. GW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-BAR #18287 Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 17 minutes ago, G W Wade said: A 100 year old problem with a 100 year old fix. GW Crude but effective; my motto! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Hangtree Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 2 minutes ago, J-BAR #18287 said: Crude but effective; my motto! I thought that was your description. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45 Dragoon Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 It's mostly all the other power robing "things" that prevent a hammer from detonating a cap. All the springs sold by all the companies will definitely work as long as "everything else" is done. The hand drag, the handspring tension, the bolt arm tension, hammer drag in the hammer slot, hammer face condition . . . . so many variables. That's why "the" main spring that works in one revolver won't in another. When "thumbs" get put into the equation, the "edge of the envelope" comes into play . . . Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted May 24, 2019 Author Share Posted May 24, 2019 3 hours ago, J-BAR #18287 said: Putting some sort of spacer between the base of the hammer spring and the frame can make a big difference using the original factory spring. A washer or little piece of leather with a hole for the screw to go through can be dramatic. Remember the hammer not only pops the cap but also holds the cap on the nipple when the powder ignites. Going light on the hammer spring can allow more blowback and cap jams unless you have a cap rake on the gun. I wondered about doing that. I have access to washers of varying thicknesses. Once I get the thickness down I'll replace it with a square spacer so pressure on the spring is even. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 I wouldn't use a leather washer... a stainless lock washer, yes... but, with the humidity in our part of the world, the leather will absorb it, and either rust the spring, the inside of your frame or, both. I use stock springs... and thin stainless lockwasher I picked up @ Ace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boomstick Bruce Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 I have Wolff 32280's in both my Remingtons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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