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does MEC have a conversion for brass shotshells


LostVaquero

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I went direct to the sourbe and here is the reply from MEC:

 

Brass Mag Tech shells.

 

With the following parts a 600 JR or mark V can be adapted to deprime, reprime and use a charge bar to drop the powder charge and insert the wad into the Magtech shells.

 

The kit #8999 works on the 600 JR - Mark V models and contains parts for depriming and repriming the brass shells.  This retails at $36.75.  It is not shown on our website although can be ordered when selecting the order by part number tab.

 

Parts included are as follows;

 

100326B

PRIMER CUP - BRASS CARTRIDGE

 

100330

SPRING

 

100331B

SPRING PAD - BRASS SPECIAL

 

10051912B

DEPRIME PUNCH 12 GA - BRASS

 

1008998

PIN - DECAPPING

 

HDW408C

BTSETCUP HXD#10000240.18B 8 N

 

PKG4P

BPYNA NHRNRN 4000 8000

 

Cannot resize but at least prime and deprive, charge etc.   I am guessing brass shells will not need much resizing but got the RCBS cowboy die for that.

 

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If you want to resize you have to use RCBS's 12ga sizing die kit.  The die works with single stage presses that have have 1 1/4-12 threaded die bushing like the Rockchucker.  I bought a cheap SmartReloader press I dedicated to reloading 12ga brass shotsheels.  Unless you fire them in different shotguns you'll never have to resize the cases.  The 12ga kit allows you to put a slight roll crimp that negates the need for glue or waterglass to fix the over shot card.

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4 hours ago, J.D. Daily said:

The 12ga kit allows you to put a slight roll crimp that negates the need for glue or waterglass to fix the over shot card.

I know nothing about loading brass hulls, hence my question.

 

The case is tall enough to accommodate a variety of loads and column heights. If the column/stack height is well below the case mouth, wouldn’t you need to glue the over shot card anyway?

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2 hours ago, Abilene Slim SASS 81783 said:

I know nothing about loading brass hulls, hence my question.

 

The case is tall enough to accommodate a variety of loads and column heights. If the column/stack height is well below the case mouth, wouldn’t you need to glue the over shot card anyway?

 

In the day of brass hulls were used,  they used a LOT of black powder and an assortment of fiber wads and more shot to fill the hull to the top.  For our CAS loads today, we don't use nearly as much stuffing.  

 

Towards then end of this video ol' Larry Potterfield shows old crimped brass hull loads.

 

 

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I went to All Brass Hulls (Magtech) several seasons ago.  I had enough problems seating primers, I found a well priced Lee Classic press and use the RCBS 12Ga die set.  After many seasons, I have yet to resize a single hull.  I also do NOT crimp the mouth of the hull.  Makes em harder to load for no real advantage.  Overshot card and a dab of adhesive ...... PRESTO.

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33 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

 

I went to All Brass Hulls (Magtech) several seasons ago.  I had enough problems seating primers, I found a well priced Lee Classic press and use the RCBS 12Ga die set.  After many seasons, I have yet to resize a single hull.  I also do NOT crimp the mouth of the hull.  Makes em harder to load for no real advantage.  Overshot card and a dab of adhesive ...... PRESTO.

 

5a8c7fe27bb7e_Prime12gaugebrasshullsFeb2018.jpg.d4569f1d8625a86e8d8c6b1890b8e914.jpg

 

Here is my priming setup.  RCBS 12 gauge shell holder that is available as a separate item.  A small Lee C press and a Lee priming die. It assures that the primers are seated to the bottom of the pocket. Just flush ain't always good enough. 

 

5a8c7fc67371e_BrasshullprimerpunchFeb2018.jpg.97931ef71ad54ba17cc526aab7335c2f.jpg

 

Here is my expensive,  high-tech depriming tool. A Lee primer punch and a base of a 12 gauge plastic wad.

 

I have a MEC 600 but see no use for loading brass hulls. 

 

1) I've never had to size a Magtech brass hull.  

 

2) The simple system I've worked out to deprime the hulls works well.  Besides,  I deprime the hulls before cleaning. Then prime when they are dry and I'm ready to load so it's not like loading regular plastic hulls where you can pick up a hull and move from station to station.

 

3) I don't see how it would work to use the 12 gauge wad guides to insert 10 gauge wads in a Magtech brass hull.  Without this feature,  you'd be down to dumping powder,  removing hull to insert wad or wads, replacing in station to dump shot. 

 

4)  The pre-crimp and crimp stations would not be used. 

 

Loading block is a very useful item to have as are Lee dippers. 

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PLUS ONE to Warden Callaway.

 

I use the complete RCBS Die set for Brass Hulls as it greatly speeds decapping (after fixing the decapping pin) and recapping.  I have a nice heavy loading block and once the hulls are primed, I think a press would just get in the way.  The 10Ga  wads are perfect fit for the Brass Hulls.

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On 5/14/2019 at 8:18 AM, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

 

I went to All Brass Hulls (Magtech) several seasons ago.  I had enough problems seating primers, I found a well priced Lee Classic press and use the RCBS 12Ga die set.  After many seasons, I have yet to resize a single hull.  I also do NOT crimp the mouth of the hull.  Makes em harder to load for no real advantage.  Overshot card and a dab of adhesive ...... PRESTO.

Before I decided to buy the RCBS 12ga die I had purchased the shell holder to prime on my Lee breech lock press.  It seemed to be an improvement over homebrew methods.  I decided to buy the RCBS 12ga die to put a roll crimp on the hulls because from what I recall of what I read online is that shells with a rolled case mouth eases inserting into a side by sides chambers.  

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Hi J. D.

 

Just my take.  I don't find All Brass 12Ga to be "Fast" no matter what you do.  I didn't start down the All Brass Rabbit Hole for Speed.  Style.  Looks uber KOOL!!  Style point galore.  Fun!!  I went to the RCBS Dies Set (Only one die) just to resolve "Fail to Fire" problems with primers just flush seated.  The few hulls I tried the roll crimp on, I put onna mandrel and hammered the crimp back out.  The roll crimp made reloading the hulls a real ROYAL PITA.  Not worth it (my opine).

 

YMMV

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4 hours ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

 

Hi J. D.

 

Just my take.  I don't find All Brass 12Ga to be "Fast" no matter what you do.  I didn't start down the All Brass Rabbit Hole for Speed.  Style.  Looks uber KOOL!!  Style point galore.  Fun!!  I went to the RCBS Dies Set (Only one die) just to resolve "Fail to Fire" problems with primers just flush seated.  The few hulls I tried the roll crimp on, I put onna mandrel and hammered the crimp back out.  The roll crimp made reloading the hulls a real ROYAL PITA.  Not worth it (my opine).

 

YMMV

+1.

 

Although I ain't bolted down the "all brass" hole just yet... (can't seem to get my wad pressure dialed in),  they're only for the uber kool drool factor others seem to have!   When they aren't steppin on them!!!:ph34r:

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