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Mountain Man Gramps

Marlin 1894C locks up with breech open

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I’m about to take part my Marlin 1894C .38 spec/.357 magnum but thought I’d ask for suggestions first.

 

It’s started locking up when I cycle the lever.  The level freezes in the open position, but when I turn the gun upside down, it unfreezes and I can close the breech.  What do you suggest I look for?  I’m new to this but like to learn by asking questions and fixing things myself.  Any suggestions?  Thanks.

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The few times I've seen this at the range it was from a loose screw (on the rifle). Just snug do not over tighten.

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You may have a broken firing pin.  When mine broke the lever would jam in various positions.  

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have you had it apart before this started?

 

some times the screws on the left side of the receiver and the bottom front of the trigger plate get switched

the longer of the two goes in the bottom

 

other than length they are identical

 

good luck

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Those are ALL good suggestions above.

 

Another thing it could be:

If you have one of the carriers that uses the plunger style stud,  that plunger stud might not

be working correctly.   This can be caused by a broken spring in it or a bad connection it has

on the lever.

 

When the lever is pushed downward, the plunger stud recesses in the carrier and then pops back

out when the lever gets to its fully open position.   When that stud pops back out, it will now be

sitting on the flat portion of the lever about 3/4" in front of the tip of the snail cam.

As you close the lever, that plunger rides (or slides) along that flat area about 1/4" and then

slides back down at that scalloped area (knife edge).

 

When that plunger rides along the flat edge of the lever, this is what causes the carrier to rise.

PLEASE NOTE:  Although that edge is flat, it is also slightly angled downward and outward.

When that plunger reaches that scalloped area on the end of the lever, this is what allows the carrier to fall.

 

If that plunger isn't working correctly, OR if there is a dimple (even a slight dimple)

 or cut on that flat area of the lever I described, the lever will hang up just as you described.

The reason it 'unfreezes' when you turn the rifle upside down is because the carrier pivots

upwards in the receiver and is no longer in contact with the lever.

Even if the carrier doesn't 'freely' pivot upwards, turning the rifle upside down relieves the

pressure between that plunger stud and the lever and will allow the action to 'unfreeze'.

 

Hope this helps you learn a little more about the Marlin, whether it solves your issue or not.

 

..........Widder

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Widder, SASS #59054 said:

Those are ALL good suggestions above.

 

Another thing it could be:

If you have one of the carriers that uses the plunger style stud,  that plunger stud might not

be working correctly.   This can be caused by a broken spring in it or a bad connection it has

on the lever.

 

When the lever is pushed downward, the plunger stud recesses in the carrier and then pops back

out when the lever gets to its fully open position.   When that stud pops back out, it will now be

sitting on the flat portion of the lever about 3/4" in front of the tip of the snail cam.

As you close the lever, that plunger rides (or slides) along that flat area about 1/4" and then

slides back down at that scalloped area (knife edge).

 

When that plunger rides along the flat edge of the lever, this is what causes the carrier to rise.

PLEASE NOTE:  Although that edge is flat, it is also slightly angled downward and outward.

When that plunger reaches that scalloped area on the end of the lever, this is what allows the carrier to fall.

 

If that plunger isn't working correctly, OR if there is a dimple (even a slight dimple)

 or cut on that flat area of the lever I described, the lever will hang up just as you described.

The reason it 'unfreezes' when you turn the rifle upside down is because the carrier pivots

upwards in the receiver and is no longer in contact with the lever.

Even if the carrier doesn't 'freely' pivot upwards, turning the rifle upside down relieves the

pressure between that plunger stud and the lever and will allow the action to 'unfreeze'.

 

Hope this helps you learn a little more about the Marlin, whether it solves your issue or not.

 

..........Widder

 

 

 

 

That's a lot going on with the plunger on the carrier riding over the blade of the lever.  But how do you fix a plunger that's sticking?

 

 

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13 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

That's a lot going on with the plunger on the carrier riding over the blade of the lever.  But how do you fix a plunger that's sticking?

 

 

 

Howdy Warden.

Various things cause a sticky carrier plunger:  

1.  broken or weak plunger spring.   If for some reason the carrier has been heated, the heat

can cause the spring to collapse and weaken.

2. normal wear..... get out of round.

3. bad contact with the lever, usually caused from normal wear or steel not hard enough.

4. the washer which keeps the plunger in the carrier can loosen or 'bow' outwards.  This can

cause some erratic functioning.

And there are probably a couple more items I can't think of at 2:45 in the morning..... :lol:

 

In order to properly fix the problem, you first need to find the cause that created the problem.

 

In all likelyhood, my comment might not even be the problem.   The other suggestions are just as

reasonable.

 

..........Widder

 

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Mountain Man Gramps didn't mention if this was a brand new gun or one that he's had for many years and the problem just now showed up.  

 

I handled several new RM Marlins last week and while they were ok overall,  the actions had some hangups that could be fixed easily or would wear smooth over time. 

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OP-With the bolt opened. If you hold the hammer spur down with your finger. Can you close the bolt using the lever?

If YES- the hammer bump at the bottom rear of the bolt has worn, and will need to be welded up and reshaped.

OLG

 

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Warden,

A friend of mine and I checked out a Marlin last week that was 'hanging up' during the cycling.

 

After a couple initial areas to check and verify in good condition, I ask him to close the lever, 

point the rifle muzzle straight up, and then open the action about 1/2 way.

Then I told him to check to see if the tip of the firing pin was still protruding from the bolt

face..... of which it was.

I then told him that the problem was somewhere in the area where the lever and the firing pin

were connecting inside the bolt...... and it was.

 

He removed a very slight burr on the lever and then properly reshaped that frontal area of the firing

pin correctly.    Rifle ran perfect after that.     YES...it was an aftermarket 1-piece firing pin.

 

Sometimes, as you are very aware, its the most itty bitty areas that can create the greatest gremlins.

 

I've only handled a few of the new Marlins and they were o.k.   I've worked on 3 or 4 of the more

recently produced Marlins and they turned out very nice and very reliable.

If I were looking for a new Marlin right now to use in Cowboy shooting, I would probably contact

Deuce and get one from him that he has already set up with better springs, etc...

 

Have a great Monday.

 

..........Widder

 

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2 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

OP-With the bolt opened. If you hold the hammer spur down with your finger. Can you close the bolt using the lever?

If YES- the hammer bump at the bottom rear of the bolt has worn, and will need to be welded up and reshaped.

OLG

 

 

Hey Lumpy.

That was my 1st thought but I couldn't figure out why it would close why upside down if the hammer was

causing the lockup.   But, it is another area he can check out.

 

Hope you are doing well.

 

..........Widder

 

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When the bolt's hammer bump on my 24" CBL wore down. The hammer got stuck in the bolt cut-out for the locking block because it wasn't 'cocking'. Holding the spur down would cock the hammer and release the bolt.

If I turned the rifle over, the bolt would move enough to let me close the bolt.

We're GTG here-Hope you and yours are well!

OLG

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3 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

When the bolt's hammer bump on my 24" CBL wore down. The hammer got stuck in the bolt cut-out for the locking block because it wasn't 'cocking'. Holding the spur down would cock the hammer and release the bolt.

If I turned the rifle over, the bolt would move enough to let me close the bolt.

We're GTG here-Hope you and yours are well!

OLG

 

You are correct.   I didn't consider the slight movement of the bolt in the receiver when you turn the rifle

upside down.   HOPEFULLY, this might be his problem because its one of the more simple issues

to fix.

We are doing well here in E.TN.   As you know, I been checking out some new 10mm loads and working

with my SIG P220 10mm and my EAA Witness Compact 10mm.

Surprisingly, the EAA Witness Compact with its 3.7" barrel is rather tame to shoot.   And, it is a shooter.

Sights were dead on at 10 yards but I didn't really get to 'milk it' yesterday.   I hope good weather

allows me more trigger time this week.

 

Take care.

 

..........Widder

 

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Wow!  I didn’t expect to get such an education about my rifle!

 

The problem has been found.  The carriage screw fell out. I found it on the table I had placed the rifle on just before the problem started.  I put it back in and now it works just fine.  Lesson learned - periodically tighten all screws and carefully use Thread-Lock.  And maybe first take a careful look before assuming I have to tear a gun down to the last bolt.  :wacko:

 

Thanks everyone for the information shared.

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35 minutes ago, Mountain Man Gramps said:

Wow!  I didn’t expect to get such an education about my rifle!

 

The problem has been found.  The carriage screw fell out. I found it on the table I had placed the rifle on just before the problem started.  I put it back in and now it works just fine.  Lesson learned - periodically tighten all screws and carefully use Thread-Lock.  And maybe first take a careful look before assuming I have to tear a gun down to the last bolt.  :wacko:

 

Thanks everyone for the information shared.

Use #242 or #243 blue Loctite..

Just back the screw out some, and from the left side of the rec'r put a drop(shake the tube up first)of LT on a toothpick and apply to the threaded area.

Don't be afraid to snug it down firmly.

That also goes for all the other screws on your Marlin.

OLG

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5 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Use #242 or #243 blue Loctite..

Just back the screw out some, and from the left side of the rec'r put a drop(shake the tube up first)of LT on a toothpick and apply to the threaded area.

Don't be afraid to snug it down firmly.

That also goes for all the other screws on your Marlin.

OLG

 

Perfect advice.

Don't put the LT on the screw because if you do, some of it will accumulate on the carrier and you'll be back on the 

wire asking why your carrier won't function smoothly..... :D

 

Kinda funny, but I started to put in my 1st post to ALWAYS remember what our good friend Lumpy advises....."be sure

to check all your screws", as others also stated.

Sometime when giving advice on the Wire, some of us take for granted that all the parts are in the rifle, including

the screws.

 

Glad it was something simple and you got it running right again.

 

..........Widder

 

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The only thing 'loose' on my guns, is the nut hold'n it...:lol:

OLG

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Great advice in this thread. I just picked up an 1894C.

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15 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

The only thing 'loose' on my guns, is the nut hold'n it...:lol:

OLG

 

We got a lot in common..... :D

 

..........Widder

 

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Thanks for the LocTite tip.  Shall do.

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1 minute ago, Mountain Man Gramps said:

Thanks for the LocTite tip.  Shall do.

Do the same for the hammer pivot screw.

The loading gate screw is another one that really needs some LT.

OLG

 

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