Dantankerous Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Ruger OMV Bisleys. 45 Colt. Power Custom half cock hammer and trigger kit installed, all else stock. I can push the base pin plunger in and it releases the base (cylinder) pin. BOING!... base pin pops right out. Comes out maybe 3/8". Of course this locks up the gun. Both revolvers do this. Does NOT do this with hammer at half cock or full cock. None of my other factory Ruger OMVs or NMVs do this. I suspect this is part of my recent base pin walking out on me occasionally, even under lighter CAS loads. I also suspect this has something to do with the modification to the PC half cock hammer and trigger but what I cannot figger. Should I look at adding an aftermarket base pin? I had to add Belt Mountain base pins and stronger springs to a pair of Ruger NMVs that under my big BP loads would walk out the base pins but I just can't see the heavier OMVs having that same problem with CAS smokeless loads. Thanks for any suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rye Miles #13621 Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Belt Mountain base pins. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019998343/power-custom-base-pin-keith-5-ruger-single-action-large-frame-2875 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dantankerous Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 29 minutes ago, Rye Miles #13621 said: Belt Mountain base pins. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019998343/power-custom-base-pin-keith-5-ruger-single-action-large-frame-2875 Is it mandatory to use that Allen set screw on that particular pin? I would think not unless you are shooting really hot loads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazy Eeyour Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 You might try this. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/469178/wolff-base-pin-latch-spring-ruger-single-action-extra-power-pack-of-3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Assassin Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Stronger springs on the base pin retainer screw. I have some if you want them. They'll probably fit in a regular envelope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dantankerous Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Thanks fellas. What still has me a little bit perplexed is why when I push the base pin retainer plunger the base pin pops forward where none of the rest of my Rugers do this, you have to put your thumb nail under the flange on the base pin by the frame and pry the base pin out. Only on my 2 revolvers equipped with the power custom half cock hammer and trigger assembly do I experience this. It's if on these 2 pistols either the base pin plunger spring (the spring and plunger at the end of the base pin under the transfer bar) is a lot stronger than on my other pistols or there something inside the half clock mechanism that applies more forward pressure to the base pin. I have no idea... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G W Wade Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Not a gunsmith, But believe something has to be pushing the pin out. This happened right after the Powers hammer? Guessing your transfer bars are out, so what is left to apply pressure to the end of the pin.. Can"t believe the spring in the end of the cylinder pin could push that hard. Should be able to look down the business end of the hammer to see if something is hitting. If you hold pressure on the back of the hammer, then push in on the base pin can you feel anything. Just trying to look at a different reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dantankerous Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Transfer bars are still in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Assassin Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Linebaugh installs heavier springs on his big bore guns because the pins slip from the shock of the recoil. Many of the old spring kits came with heavier retention screw pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
German Jim Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Just to eliminate one possibility, in the Rugers that have the Power Custom hardware, swap out the base pins with the Rugers that don't have the hardware. See if it does the same with the base pins from the unmodified Rugers. That should tell you if it's a base pin issue or a Power Custom issue. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 2 hours ago, Dantankerous said: Transfer bars are still in. DING DING DING this may be the problem. Compare the hammer face to one of your stock guns. Has the hammer face been built up by welding? If so you probably need to remove the transfer bars. Bet if you look carefully the hammer is not fully down with the base pin inserted all the way. Observe the hammer when you push the base pin latch allowing the pin to pop out. Does it move? If so this is almost certanly the problem. Verification is easy, remove the transfer bar and test fire the pistol. If the rounds go bang then the transfer bar doesn't belong. Reading the interweb the instructions call for the transfer bar to be modified by removing material with a file. Was this done correctly? Another possibility is that you have the wrong length base pins. Check the length against another Ruger of the same model. Here is a video by Power Custom showing how to install the kit. 8 minute covers altering the transfer bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Try the cyl pin from another Ruger. Wolff Gunsprings has stiffer plunger springs. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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