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SlickMagic Parts for Marlin 1894C


Mountain Man Gramps

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Has anyone used the one piece trigger and spring set offered by SlickMagic Guns for the Marlin 1894C rifle?  What do you think about them?  Do they result in smoother action for the rifle?

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In my opinion, the triggers can give you a slightly smoother trigger feel in the manner which

they interact with the hammer.   The 'Phantom' trigger eliminates the flop.

 

The trigger itself won't give you a smoother action.  If you want a smoother action, other

details of the rifle will need to be addressed. 

 

If you like a straight trigger, you will be pleased with the 'Phantom' trigger from Slick.

 

Just my .02

 

..........Widder

 

 

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19 minutes ago, Widder, SASS #59054 said:

In my opinion, the triggers can give you a slightly smoother trigger feel in the manner which

they interact with the hammer.   The 'Phantom' trigger eliminates the flop.

 

The trigger itself won't give you a smoother action.  If you want a smoother action, other

details of the rifle will need to be addressed. 

 

If you like a straight trigger, you will be pleased with the 'Phantom' trigger from Slick.

 

Just my .02

 

..........Widder

 

 

Widder he might be talking about the new spring kit Slick is carrying by Cowboy Carty, it includes a nee trigger/lever safety spring.

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I have installed the Phantom trigger in all our newer Marlins.  Ironically,  the OLD Marlins had a one-piece trigger.  

 

The only newer Marlin that doesn't have a Phantom trigger is Sawmill Mary's 1894 Cowboy in 44WCF that was worked over by Widder.  It has some other brand - maybe Happy Trigger.  I don't think it's a true one-piece trigger but it doesn't flop.  And not as straight as the Phantom. 

 

Maybe Widder can correct anything I miss stated. 

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13 minutes ago, Deuce Stevens SASS#55996 said:

Widder he might be talking about the new spring kit Slick is carrying by Cowboy Carty, it includes a nee trigger/lever safety spring.

 

Yea, you could be right.

In the same respect, I would still highly recommend it for the Marlin,  and the kit

would give a smoother action.

 

..........Widder

 

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Thanks everyone.  I new to all this so I have an excuse to ask simple questions...

 

Deuce, when you said, "If you want a smoother action, other details of the rifle will need to be addressed", what were you refering to?  I came across a YouTube video that talked about disassembling the rifle and sanding all the parts with 400-1000 grit snad paper to eliminate any sharp edges and especially around any areas with scratches and wear marks.  Then totally clean off all lubricant and use only a tiny bit of an oil like Hoppe's #9 lubricating oil.  I'm also installing the SlickMagic trigger and spring set.  Are those worth while things to do?  Anything else you'd recommend or any YouTube videos you'd recommend? 

 

Thanks everyone for the advice.

 

Mountain Man Gramps

 

 

 

 

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When upgrading the Marlin 1894 action, the 90/10 rule really applies.  Just changing out the hammer and latch spring makes a lot of difference.   Biggest bang for the buck.

 

The one-piece trigger and firing pin won't make it any smoother or faster.  The purpose of the one-piece trigger is to 1) Eliminate the slop and flop of the factory trigger. 2) The straight trigger sets back a bit further and gives more room inside the loop so to reduce the chance of trigger bite.  While I think the one-piece trigger provides a light, chrisp trigger pull, l don't give it credit for improving the cycle of the action. 

 

The one-piece firing pin is said to improve the ignition when using light hammer spring. It also reduced the number of parts by replacing the two-piece firing pin and small spring that pushes the end of the short section of the pin down when action is open.  In the factory two-piece design,  that little spring has to be compressed as the breach bolt is closed.   The amount of effort is so minimal,  I doubt if anyone would notice.  

 

Then you start into the 90% effort to get the last 10%.  There are a hundred places where parts rub.  Honing here and there where rubbing is obvious will show some some smoothing.  While there are many obvious places that can use deburred and polished,  there are other places that need an experienced eye to polish and actually change the contour.  It'd be easy to go too far and really screw things up.

 

None of the above address feeding issues that may come up when trying to use specific reloads.  

 

I made a video of installing a Phantom Trigger.   The Phantom Trigger may or may not be a drop-in part.   It depends on the trigger pin diameter in your gun.  The Phantom Trigger is so hard, you may need a cobalt bit to enlarge the hole.  I've used grinding compound to polish the hole to size.  But it takes a LONG time. 

 

 

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Marlins are pretty easy to make match ready. 

#1 replace the two piece firing pin with a steel one piece. 

#2 replace the main spring, latch spring, trigger spring

#3 flat top the rear sight and replace front bead or add slick’s sight

#4 put on a lever wrap

#5 replace the plastic magazine follower with a stainless follower.

#6 trim the factory magazine spring so that 4” hang past the end of the magazine 

#7 lighten the loading gate spring

.

.

.

.

 

#32 replace the trigger

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3 hours ago, Straight Arrow Hombre said:

Marlins are pretty easy to make match ready. 

#1 replace the two piece firing pin with a steel one piece. 

#2 replace the main spring, latch spring, trigger spring

#3 ADD LYMAN #2 TANG SIGHT TO BE USE AS A GHOST RING.  Throw old rear sight in nearest trash receptacle.

#4 put on a lever wrap

#5 replace the plastic magazine follower with a stainless follower.

#6 trim the factory magazine spring so that 4” hang past the end of the magazine 

#7 lighten the loading gate spring

.

.

.

.

 

#32 replace the trigger

 So close, #3 just needed a little help. :p

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Thanks again everyone.  This forum is the most responsive and helpful forum I’ve been on.  Such good advice and dialog between multiple experts.

 

Warden,

I just watched your video.  Just what I needed.  Thank you!  Very well done.

 

Mountain Man Gramps

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5 hours ago, Mountain Man Gramps said:

Thanks again everyone.  This forum is the most responsive and helpful forum I’ve been on.  Such good advice and dialog between multiple experts.

 

Warden,

I just watched your video.  Just what I needed.  Thank you!  Very well done.

 

Mountain Man Gramps

My suggestion if the factory trigger pin want fit the Phantom triggers hole. DON’T try to drill out the Phantom trigger, they are hardened steel and why take a chance of messing up a $60 part. Instead take the factory trigger pin and take down the O.D. Of it. I do this by putting one end into the end of my dremel tool . Then take a piece of sand paper and hold it around the pin as you turn the dremel tool. Once that end will fit into the phantom trigger I just swap ends and do the same thing again. The end result you want is the trigger to swing freely on the pin. 

Everything you do to a marlin affects something else. I’d start with the simple basics and work up from there.

simple basics:

(1) Lighter stainless mag spring.

(leave 2 -3 inches sticking out of tube and trim the rest off.

(2) Stainless follower.

(3) Competition Spring Kit.

(4) Change both front and rear sights.

(5) Lever Wrap.

(6) Phantom Trigger “optional”(helps trigger pull and trigger bite,nothing else with the action)

(7) Safety Delete: again “optional” (does nothing for the guns function but it’s a piece of mind knowing you can’t bump it on by accident)

 

heres my opinion of things to do before action work. On that note be very careful of whom you send it to for that.

 

:)

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22 minutes ago, Slick McClade said:

Instead take the factory trigger pin and take down the O.D. Of it. I do this by putting one end into the end of my dremel tool . Then take a piece of sand paper and hold it around the pin as you turn the dremel tool. Once that end will fit into the phantom trigger I just swap ends and do the same thing again.

 

Won't this result in a pin that will fall out of the trigger plate?   Do you punch the hole in the trigger plate to keep the pin from falling out (when the gun is disassembled)? 

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35 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

Won't this result in a pin that will fall out of the trigger plate?   Do you punch the hole in the trigger plate to keep the pin from falling out (when the gun is disassembled)? 

It does make it smaller of course but the side plates of the frame is what holds the pin in place. It will only come out when your taking the gun apart to clean it. It’s not going to hurt the function or reliability of the rifle. That’s the main problem with all marlins, they are never within the same specs from rifle to rifle. It’s almost impossible to make a 100% drop in part for them.

Like I stated , it’s the way I do it.. might not be the right way to some but it’s worked well for me.

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1 hour ago, Slick McClade said:

My suggestion if the factory trigger pin want fit the Phantom triggers hole. DON’T try to drill out the Phantom trigger, they are hardened steel and why take a chance of messing up a $60 part. Instead take the factory trigger pin and take down the O.D. Of it. I do this by putting one end into the end of my dremel tool . Then take a piece of sand paper and hold it around the pin as you turn the dremel tool. Once that end will fit into the phantom trigger I just swap ends and do the same thing again. The end result you want is the trigger to swing freely on the pin. 

 

 

This is good advice, BUT..... you may only want to sand down only ONE end of the pin and leave the other 'tip' its

normal size.   This will be the end you insert LAST because it will keep the pin snug in its hole and not

fall out freely every time you take the rifle apart.

 

Slick as GOOD stuff for Marlins (and other firearms) and he stands behind all his stuff.  

He's a good, honest business man.

 

..........Widder

 

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Looks like I was just a couple minutes late with my post and comments.

And yes, Slick is correct in that if the pin fits loose, it won't matter until you

take the rifle apart.

 

And yep, specs for Marlins seem to vary from rifle to rifle.    It makes for a 'fun day'  trying to 

work on some of them..... :lol::o

 

..........Widder

 

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It would be a lot easier to reduce the pin than to enlarge the hole in the trigger using the method I've used.  Or even get or make a pin that fits the trigger.  (I have made from shank of drill bit.)  There are a number of ways to get a pin to stay in a hole. I have bumped the end of pin to make it out of round so it fits right the last little bit. 

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2 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

It would be a lot easier to reduce the pin than to enlarge the hole in the trigger using the method I've used.  Or even get or make a pin that fits the trigger.  (I have made from shank of drill bit.)  There are a number of ways to get a pin to stay in a hole. I have bumped the end of pin to make it out of round so it fits right the last little bit. 

 

Hey Warden,  great minds think alike.

 

I've used this method also.

 

I hold one end of the pin down with a spring clamp on top of my piece of angle iron.

Then I put a hard punch on the side of its tip and pop it with a hammer.   This puts a slight

flat spot on the edge of the pin and makes it hold inside the hole VERY GOOD.

Just remember that this flattened edge goes in last.

 

..........Widder

 

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48 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

 

May I ask, what sights do you suggest?

I have 68 yo eyes ^_^

TNX,

OLG

I prefer the marbles flat top rear sight with the diamond taken out. This way it leaves a really nice horse shoe shape in the middle. I always change out the front sight base to a marbles 45W and it goes perfect with the Sure Hit Brass Sight. I have this set up on all the rifles we own and it works great. The sights really pop out and make sweeping from target to target much easier. Both can be found on my website.

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3 minutes ago, Slick McClade said:

I prefer the marbles flat top rear sight with the diamond taken out. This way it leaves a really nice horse shoe shape in the middle. I always change out the front sight base to a marbles 45W and it goes perfect with the Sure Hit Brass Sight. I have this set up on all the rifles we own and it works great. The sights really pop out and make sweeping from target to target much easier. Both can be found on my website.

Do you have these on your site?

OLG

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:ph34r:  OLG--  I have Slick's 0.150" on my Marlins and they work GREAT.  I round the end with a file and polish with crocus cloth, chucking in drill press.  Catches light better.

 

My eyes are 7 years older'n yours, and it helps!  :)

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On 1/19/2019 at 5:24 PM, Slick McClade said:

I prefer the marbles flat top rear sight with the diamond taken out. This way it leaves a really nice horse shoe shape in the middle. I always change out the front sight base to a marbles 45W and it goes perfect with the Sure Hit Brass Sight. I have this set up on all the rifles we own and it works great. The sights really pop out and make sweeping from target to target much easier. Both can be found on my website.

On my Marlin 1894, there is that round shroud over the front sight.  Can I just gentle tap that off with a hammer?  Will the "Sure Hit" rifle sight fit over the original Marlin front site once the shroud is removed?  What is the advantage of replacing the the original marble front sight with the Slick's marbles front sight if you're just going to cover it with the "Sure Hit" sight?

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28 minutes ago, Mountain Man Gramps said:

On my Marlin 1894, there is that round shroud over the front sight.  Can I just gentle tap that off with a hammer?  

 

It should just slide off just by a firm grip and pull. 

 

Don't know about the second question. 

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1 hour ago, Mountain Man Gramps said:

On my Marlin 1894, there is that round shroud over the front sight.  Can I just gentle tap that off with a hammer?  Will the "Sure Hit" rifle sight fit over the original Marlin front site once the shroud is removed?  What is the advantage of replacing the the original marble front sight with the Slick's marbles front sight if you're just going to cover it with the "Sure Hit" sight?

If yours has a shroud then it is a carbine. The front sight is very small and set up on a ramp front sight base. The brass front sight will not fit over the top portion of the factory sight because its to small and the brass sight will be loose. You can take one of the brass sight and modify it by squeezing the sides together until it snugly fits over the factory sight tube. I’d then recommend placing some quick set epoxy along the bottom edge just to have piece of mind. 

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33 minutes ago, Slick McClade said:

If yours has a shroud then it is a carbine. The front sight is very small and set up on a ramp front sight base. The brass front sight will not fit over the top portion of the factory sight because its to small and the brass sight will be loose. You can take one of the brass sight and modify it by squeezing the sides together until it snugly fits over the factory sight tube. I’d then recommend placing some quick set epoxy along the bottom edge just to have piece of mind. 

Just wondering Slick, since the name is a 'Sure Hit' sight does it come with any warranty that all the misses have been removed during manufacturing? :lol:

 

Kajun

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20 minutes ago, Krazy Kajun said:

Just wondering Slick, since the name is a 'Sure Hit' sight does it come with any warranty that all the misses have been removed during manufacturing? :lol:

 

Kajun

Most definitely, we guarantee 1/2 the misses are out.

 

Slick

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2 hours ago, Slick McClade said:

If yours has a shroud then it is a carbine. The front sight is very small and set up on a ramp front sight base. The brass front sight will not fit over the top portion of the factory sight because its to small and the brass sight will be loose. You can take one of the brass sight and modify it by squeezing the sides together until it snugly fits over the factory sight tube. I’d then recommend placing some quick set epoxy along the bottom edge just to have piece of mind. 

 

Are you saying I should use the Marbles Front Rifle Sight, not the Sure Hit?  Slick, I left you a voice mail.  Please check it before you ship my order.  Hopefully I caught you in time!  (I hope this doesn't violate SASSwire policy.  Sorry if it does)

 

BTW, thanks again everyone for your participation in this tread.  Fantastic forum!

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On 1/21/2019 at 4:04 PM, Krazy Kajun said:

Just wondering Slick, since the name is a 'Sure Hit' sight does it come with any warranty that all the misses have been removed during manufacturing? :lol:

 

Kajun

If they do, mine was a  left over and out of MFG. warranty :lol:

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