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This is for Widder


dlw64

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Hello sir,

 

I am looking for more information on the specs to chamfering the entrance edge of the portal as mentioned below.

I just shot for the first time my new 1894 CSBL and everything ran great except loading is incredibly difficult. 

The conclusion I came to was that the rounds are hanging up on the entrance to the loading tube on multiple points on the cartridge.

Mechanically I couldn't think of any reason that putting a chamfer on the opening at the 09:00 postion would cause an issue which your reply below supports.

Question is, how many degrees of the opening do you feel is acceptable to chamfer?

Then second question is how deep into the bore do you feel is safe to chamfer?

My thought was to break and polish the edge all the way around then chamfer from the 07:30 to the 10:30 postion.

Possibly starting the chamfer close to the receiver wall and into the bore 0.200 inch or so.

I will know more when i disassemble and take a closer look at it.

Thoughts?

 

Thanks

David

 

below was posted by you on 24 jan 2016.

 

"RECKLESS: Rio Brazos Kid is probably correct.

When pushing a round thru the loading gate, the 'RIM' of the previous round gets caught on the sharp edge of the portal (the portion of the frame that leads into the mag tube) as you push another round thru the loading gate.

 

REMEDY: when you are holding your rifle in a shooting position, the loading gate would be at a 3 o'clock position. The 'Portal' area where the rim is probably catching would be opposite of that, at the 9 o'clock position.

 

Chamfer that 9 o'clock position to eliminate that sharp entrance edge of the portal. I've actually chamfered some rifles (including a couple of my own) all the way to the left side of the receiver wall and eliminated ANY chance of obstruction.

 

DO NOT enlarge the whole portal hole. Only chamfer that edge area leading into the portal.

 

Feel free to call me this afternoon if you like at:

865 / 336-2339 or 865 / 724-8646.

 

I hope this helps."

 

 

..........Widder

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Howdy DLW.

 

Is there a number in which I can call you?

 

1st question:  The chamfer varies depending upon the seriousness of the problem.   Of the dozens of

Marlins I have worked on, only about a dozen had a problem feeding ammo thru the loading gate and

having rims catch at the portal entrance.

 

2nd question (how deep to chamfer):  normally, I can accomplish the job with a 1/8" or 3/16"

chamfer into the portal area.

 

If you can call, I will gladly share a good technique to do the chamfer without messing up anything else.

 

CAUTION:  I would not chamber the complete circumference of that portal.   If you enlarge the upper area,

you could be in danger of allowing the rim of subsequent rounds to pop out over the carrier edge,

which will give you the same results as the 'Marlin Jam' problem.   

Remember, its the front portion of the carrier and its front wings that stop rims in the portal from

feeding out until proper cycling of the action allow it.   If you change the front of the carrier OR the

size of that portal in the wrong area, you could create more problems and not solve any.

 

If you want to call me, feel free.   I'm retired and can talk most anytime.

 

865 / 696-1996

 

P.S. - I didn't think too many folks ever read my post..... ;)

Thanks.

 

..........Widder

 

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Understood.

I have a new aluminum follower from RPP.

Yes, your right on.

I noticed the more tapered the bullet profile the easier to get past the bullet on loading, then the cartridges would hang at the case mouth and the rim.

Calling Widder in a few minutes

David

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wanted to update everyone on things.
After several conversations with Mr. Widder, he confirmed my observations and we agreed to an approach to correcting my issue.
Upon disassembly, it was confirmed that the rim of the cartridges were hanging up on the "portal" of the receiver and the beginning of the magazine tube.
So, long story short.
Chamfered the portal and the feeding tube.
Cut off magazine spring past 4 rounds outside the tube.
Cartridges no longer hang up at those two points when loading and is so much easier.
Especially after reducing effective spring weight.
I am hoping to go shooting this week to see how everything goes.
Haven’t polished the portal chamfer like I would like but wasn’t sure if I would have to make more modifications or not.
If this all goes well, I will tackle the next concern which I will post about at a later date.
Installed the RPP loading gate which is anodized aluminum but quickly chewed it up so went back to original stainless steel one and lightened up the tension in it.
Also ordered a stainless steel magazine follower and will install the next time I take the rifle front down.
The photos show modifications.
Thank you all for the input.
David

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Credit goes to David.

He was already familiar with the Marlin and quickly understood the problem as we were talking.

 

Looks like he did a successful job.

 

I'm glad he made a comment on the RPP loading gate.   They are a good company but its nice

to hear about their individual products.

 

His next Marlin issue should be interesting.   To Be Continued...............

 

..........Widder

 

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Update.
Loads, shoots and cycles GREAT !!!!!!
Not a single issue in almost 500 rounds.
Most of which was PPU 357 SJHP 158 gr.
It's a fairly hot load.
The others were a sample of defensive loads by Hornady, Speer Gold Dots, etc.
Need to find a lead sled to sight it in better and to start checking to see what flavor ammo it likes best but the gun can out shoot me. (which isn't hard anymore)
I put a EXPS3 on it and it is a really fun and quick gun.
Everyone at the range wanted to take a turn with it.
I am really loving it right now.
This lever action thing is addicting.

 

Yes, lots of cleanup on the guns machining to be done.

Just going to shoot it for awhile, then go back in and start detailing it.

 

Thanks all for your input and help.

Great group of people here.

David 

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usually after 500 rounds the rubbing parts will be easier to see.

 

Consider an aftermarket hammer spring--that will help a lot.  

 

Depending on if you'll use it outside of SASS the replacement Non-safety is nice--no chance of safety coming on at wrong time.  You can also tighten the allen screw on the factory safety so it won't move--I like new, shiny things so I got the parts.

 

for SASS use the white triangle, diamond? on the rear sight needs to be blackened, part of the rules.  I just used a marker.

 

Always check your screws--Marlins are known for having them come loose.  

 

and . . . Welcome to the fun and games of cowboy shooting!

 

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