Clay Thornton Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 I'm building my second gun cart in two years because I fell into the common trap of making my first one to big. I'm stuggling to come up with an idea of how to attach the wheels. My material is 1/2inch plywood. If you don't mind post some pics of what you use(d) to attach wheels to the carts themselves. Do you use an axel that goes all the way across? Do you use a wheel hub? What have you had success with? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyrel Cody Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Talk to @Yul Lose he makes some really nice hubs to use with Northern Tool wheels. I should have a mini metal lathe soon and might be able to make some as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rainmaker, SASS #11631 Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 I used a cold rolled steel bar (I/2 in. and full-length) through bronze bushings (both bought at Lowes) and pressed the bearings into holes drilled in oak blocks screwed to the bottom of the cart. The wheels are chrome steel spokes with bearings and pneumatic tires. I drilled holes in the bars at the ends and use cotter pins to hold the wheels on with washers. Have used this setup for over 13 yrs with no problems at all. Have to air the tires a couple times a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lastcall Ranger Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 I guess my set up is a little more basic, but has worked for several years. I attached a 1X4 across the bottom of the cart, with a routed 1/2X1/2 slot facing up, and screwed it to the bottom of the cart. Cut a piece of 1/2 diameter bar to length, drilled a hole on each end for a snap pin, slid it thru the slot in the 1X4, and attached wire spoke wheels purchased at Northern Hydraulics. Put a large fender washed between each wheel and the cart, and just a washer between each wheel and the snap pin. I played with the location of the 1X4 on the bottom of the cart before mounting to be sure the cart would balance when loaded and tilt easily to push. Has worked real well so far, and achieved a goal of using as much scrap material I already had as possible. I made mine out of 3/4 plywood and painted it confederate gray. I can quickly take the wheels off and lay it down in the back of my truck or my wife's SUV. With 3/4 plywood, it is a little heavy, but that's what I had available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eyesa Horg Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 3 minutes ago, Lastcall Ranger said: I guess my set up is a little more basic, but has worked for several years. I attached a 1X4 across the bottom of the cart, with a routed 1/2X1/2 slot facing up, and screwed it to the bottom of the cart. Cut a piece of 1/2 diameter bar to length, drilled a hole on each end for a snap pin, slid it thru the slot in the 1X4, and attached wire spoke wheels purchased at Northern Hydraulics. Put a large fender washed between each wheel and the cart, and just a washer between each wheel and the snap pin. I played with the location of the 1X4 on the bottom of the cart before mounting to be sure the cart would balance when loaded and tilt easily to push. Has worked real well so far, and achieved a goal of using as much scrap material I already had as possible. I made mine out of 3/4 plywood and painted it confederate gray. I can quickly take the wheels off and lay it down in the back of my truck or my wife's SUV. With 3/4 plywood, it is a little heavy, but that's what I had available. I did pretty much the same with the exception that my axle is mounted to the rear of the cart causing the cart to sit lower to the ground. It is a little unbalanced and heavy to tilt. Being made of cherry didn't help much with the weight! I used the plastic Northern 16" wheels and eventually got tired of adding air and installed the foam inserts in place of tubes. + 10 to check in with Yul as stated above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imis Twohofon,SASS # 46646 Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 I have had two wood carts, just drill through the sides at appropriate height for your choice of wheels (Hint- the bigger the easier to roll over rough ground). Also, weight is not your friend at the end of the day. The higher the vehicle the more you will age in loading and unloading the cart. My cart looks like a Tijuana Taxi now days but a lot of stuff comes off so I dont have to pick it up all at once. Drilling soft steel axles is easy, carry a spare cotter pin in your vehicle. Imis enjoy the game and get yourself a good hat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay Thornton Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 The bar across the back with a dato cut is what I am using on the big cart today. It's simple & easy but heavy. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzly Dave Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 I just finished this cart for a good pard. I used half inch steel round stock for the axle into wheels that Lowes stocks. To attach to the cart I used half inch pipe hangers. These didn't clamp the axle to the box the way I wanted, so I cut up an old bicycle inner tube to fill the gap and provide the clamp I wanted. The pipe hangers came 5 to a package, so I used them all. I'm not sure how it will hold up, but time will tell. This is the second cart I made off this design, and I designed it so that I could get 2 carts out of a single sheet of plywood. Along with odd bits of scrap I had on hand like the quarter inch plywood for the box bottoms. Oh, on the bottom of the box where the legs and axle attach, I have hardwood as those are the places I see getting the most stress. My cart, which I built when I started the game, had the axle mounted on the back of the lower box, maybe 3 inches up. This has worked well, but you are lifting the entire weight of the front of the box each time you tip it back, and the balance point is fairly high. I prefer the axle on the bottom of the box, several inches in from the back like on the carts I just built. They seem to tip back better, and the balance point isn't so high, and roll like a dream. Here's the first cart I made off that design The upright with back attached lifts up and out for transport, and is held in place by a dowel or steel rod, the cut off from the axle works better than a dowel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turquoise Bill, SASS #39118 Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Well boys the first gun cart I made out of oak (way too heavy) I took a piece of 1/2" electrical conduit and mounted that through a couple 2' thick oak blocks on each side on the bottom of the card. The 1/2" steel axle slides right through the full length of conduit and no bearings are needed. Clean and simple. Washers on each side of the wheels and cut the axle & the conduit the right length for the card. TB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yul Lose Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Here’s how I build the axles and wheels for my carts. I use a 5 1/2”x 1/2” class 5 bolt as the axle. I run the threads up with a die and then I cut the head off on my lathe. I then drill a hole for the axle pin. I used to turn the aluminum tee nut but now I have a friend of mine do it who’s a retired machinist, he charges me $6.00 each and I buy the stock in 1 1/4 stock in 20’ sections at my metal supply wholesaler. After I’ve dovetailed, profiled and cut the dado slot for the bottom of the carriage of my cart I screw and glue a 3/4” Baltic plywood gusset/spacer to the inside back of each side piece. I then use a 1 1/4” Forster bit to drill the pocket for the large collar of the aluminum teenut. I leave the fence set on the drill press and I change the 1 1/4” Forster bit out for a 7/8” forstner bit. I lay a piece of scrap down on the drill press table so that the wood on the side piece won’t blow out when the forstner bit comes through and I drill the 7/8” hole for the teenut body. I use two different kinds of wheels from Northern Tool, the one in the picture and also a 20” solid tire model. I replace the inner tubes in the one pictured with foam tubes that I buy on Amazon, you never have to worry about flat tires again if you do that. I also replace the bearings that come with both kinds of wheels with high tech bearings from Zike, they’ll last a lot longer and wheels run a lot smoother. PM me if you have any questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay Thornton Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 @Yul Lose do you think a 1/2 inch of plywood would support this setup? I have concerns that the wood would not be strong enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay Thornton Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 This is my setup so far. Sides will hold long guns. Center is general storage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yul Lose Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 26 minutes ago, Clay Thornton said: @Yul Lose do you think a 1/2 inch of plywood would support this setup? I have concerns that the wood would not be strong enough. Probably not. I use 4/4 hardwood stock and machine it down to about 11/16” and then the 3/4” Baltic birch gusset/spacer is glued and screwed to that. You may be better off going with Grizzly Dave’s method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straight Arrow Hombre Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 I use a piece of 5/4 stock ripped to 2” wide (finished dimensions 1”x2”). I cut a 1/2”x1/2” dado and glue it to the back of the box, flush with the bottom. That style boxe will do best with the axle mounted as far back as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadshot Dan Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 18 hours ago, Yul Lose said: Here’s how I build the axles and wheels for my carts. I use a 5 1/2”x 1/2” class 5 bolt as the axle. I run the threads up with a die and then I cut the head off on my lathe. I then drill a hole for the axle pin. I used to turn the aluminum tee nut but now I have a friend of mine do it who’s a retired machinist, he charges me $6.00 each and I buy the stock in 1 1/4 stock in 20’ sections at my metal supply wholesaler. After I’ve dovetailed, profiled and cut the dado slot for the bottom of the carriage of my cart I screw and glue a 3/4” Baltic plywood gusset/spacer to the inside back of each side piece. I then use a 1 1/4” Forster bit to drill the pocket for the large collar of the aluminum teenut. I leave the fence set on the drill press and I change the 1 1/4” Forster bit out for a 7/8” forstner bit. I lay a piece of scrap down on the drill press table so that the wood on the side piece won’t blow out when the forstner bit comes through and I drill the 7/8” hole for the teenut body. I use two different kinds of wheels from Northern Tool, the one in the picture and also a 20” solid tire model. I replace the inner tubes in the one pictured with foam tubes that I buy on Amazon, you never have to worry about flat tires again if you do that. I also replace the bearings that come with both kinds of wheels with high tech bearings from Zike, they’ll last a lot longer and wheels run a lot smoother. PM me if you have any questions. I really like those wooden spoke insert's on your wheel's Yul, nice touch!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attica Jack #23953 Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 Oar locks make good axle holders, just screw/bolt them to the corner of the cart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay Thornton Posted January 8, 2019 Author Share Posted January 8, 2019 12 hours ago, Straight Arrow Hombre said: I use a piece of 5/4 stock ripped to 2” wide (finished dimensions 1”x2”). I cut a 1/2”x1/2” dado and glue it to the back of the box, flush with the bottom. That style boxe will do best with the axle mounted as far back as possible. @Straight Arrow Hombre To the back of the box? Or to the bottom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straight Arrow Hombre Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 3 minutes ago, Clay Thornton said: @Straight Arrow Hombre To the back of the box? Or to the bottom? To the back. You want the pivot further back on your type of cart. Keeps it from being tippy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straight Arrow Hombre Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 8 minutes ago, Clay Thornton said: @Straight Arrow Hombre To the back of the box? Or to the bottom? To the back. You want the pivot further back on your type of cart. Keeps it from being tippy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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