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Uberti Cattleman Disassembly


TheRealTheDanimal

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Did a quick search and didn't find any previous threads on this, so I thought I'd ask!

 

I'm having trouble removing the basepin from my Uberti Cattleman. It's a one of the New Models without the screw in the front of the frame. It moves in and out to activate the hammer drop safety, but I can't get it any further out. I've searched other forums and Youtube without much luck. From what those have said, I just need to pull REALLY hard, which I've done to no avail. I put some solvent down the hole (so to speak) in case there was anything in there causing it to stick, which also did nothing to help. 

 

I don't want to take pliers or something to it, as that will obviously damage the finish and metal bits. I just want to give my gun a good cleaning and lubricating like a responsible owner. 

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Wrap a small flat piece of rubber or leather around the base pin then use pliers to work it a bit.  It should come out without much effort.  Polish it a bit where it goes through the frame and cylinder for no more problems.

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I had the same problem with some of my older Ubertis. I bought a tool from Brownells for this purpose. It designed to extract pins on Colt /Colt clones on one end and Rugers on the other end.

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If you are or already have taken the gun apart,  you can take something like a brass punch and give it a bump from the back end where it sticks through the frame.  

 

There is a special tool to pry the pin loose without resorting to using pliers.  If you decide to use pliers,  you may want to take the ejector rod housing off to get a better grip on it.  Slip and you'll be sad. 

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Are we talking the Cylinder pin?  I had this problem with a brand new Running Iron.  It went back to Taylor's for warranty work, as it was only one of several problems.  I thought the pin might have been bent or the cylinder pin bushing might have been bored off center.  Taylor's told me the cylinder pin screw and cylinder pin nut were too tight.  It may have been a small part of the problem, but it didn't start working correctly until after I polished the cylinder pin and de-burred the cylinder pin hole in the frame.  By the way, this was on a Taylor's "Tuned" gun.

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Not tryin to hijack the post but back in 2011 i bought a taylor tuned comanchero rifle and have had good luck with it.  I'm in the market for a new rifle and seem's iv'e heard things about their tuned guns now.  I'm not sure but i thought Cody Conagher was doing their rifles when i got mine.  Would i be better off just going strait through Cody for a new 73 ?

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On 12/29/2018 at 2:37 PM, Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 said:

Not to insult you but make sure the hammer is in the half cocked position.

No insult taken! I've tried that one as well. I think it might just be stuck in there more tightly than it should be

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On 12/29/2018 at 11:51 AM, Deadshot Dan said:

Not tryin to hijack the post but back in 2011 i bought a taylor tuned comanchero rifle and have had good luck with it.  I'm in the market for a new rifle and seem's iv'e heard things about their tuned guns now.  I'm not sure but i thought Cody Conagher was doing their rifles when i got mine.  Would i be better off just going strait through Cody for a new 73 ?

 

For what it's worth, the Codymatic ended up costing less than the Comanchero.  Granted you don't get a butt cover and leather wrap with Cody's rifle.

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15 hours ago, TheRealTheDanimal said:

No insult taken! I've tried that one as well. I think it might just be stuck in there more tightly than it should be

Also, you need to have the locking grooves down and lined up with the base pin.  Practice and you will get it.

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If you still haven't gotten the base pin out, another thing you may try is taking the latch assembly out. There could be crud keeping it from pressing in far enough to release.  The best way is to have a proper tool to get the nut off.  I had one I made out of a spring.   They can be made easily out of a screw driver.

 

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