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Range Master question 1/4” or 3/8” AR500


Tucker McNeely

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I keep eyeing steel prices that keep falling.  So, the question to the club range masters that keep targets in working order, 1/4” or 3/8” AR500 steel for our cowboy loads?

 

What say you?

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I'd stick with 3/8. Our loads wont's penetrate 1/4 inch AR500, 1/4 will cup after it's shot a bunch of times. 3/8's will eventually cup but it will hold up much longer. 

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Founder's Ranch has quite an assortment of target plates.  I'll discuss the ones that just get cowboy action shooting use.  Most that are lower quality alloys (less damage resistant) than AR500 will cup and pit even if they are 3/8" thick.  The 1/4" thick of those will bend in a season (at least 4 matches a month, most months) and get pitted to be fairly rough.

 

The AR500 plates will stand up for a year or two of service in the 1/4" thickness.  Rifle usage is hardest on them in regards to bending them.  Pitting is not bad even when they are used enough to bend.

 

AR500 plates in 3/8" have largely withstood 10 years of use, and are still flat.  Some are pock-marked just a little.  

 

You pay your money and you get much better life by paying for the best to begin with.

 

Now, if you allow jacketed rounds, high power rifle use, steel shot, steel penetrators, even the 3/8" AR500 gets damaged quickly.   Keep "general" shooters away from your cowboy steel.

 

Good luck, GJ

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The targets we use monthly are also used in our annual shoot. I noticed last year some were showing signs of cupping. They are all around 6 years old. 

The 16 x 16 targets are not cupping. The 18 x 24 targets are showing signs of cupping.

The welds are checked on the brackets every monthly match, when we find a cracked weld we are now moving the brackets to the back sides of the targets.

I tried to press the cupped targets flat, they didn't want to give up the cup. Our targets are only used for CAS.

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3/8 inch. We have used it for many years.  Absolutely no pitting, but after a lot of use the metal expands on the front surface and cause the targets to become convex. When that happens we have a large local fabricator the runs our targets through a roller and flattens them out for a small fee. 

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Stick with the 3/8. We shoot the X as we call it. Mark back of target with an X after set up. Next set up X goes in front, painted over and an a new X is painted on back.  Next set up X goes in front and painted over new X is painted on back. That way both sides are shot every other set up. Keeps the steel flat for years.

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Just remember when going light there are many folks in SASS that like the bang more than the competition. We had a guy show up with a Walker Colt clone that was pretty stout and would really do a number on 1/4 stuff as would 45 loads if they are factory. 

 

Just remember not all the people showing up with have 800 FPS (or less) 38 loads. I'd go with 3/8. 

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Our club uses targets that are 3/8 AR400.  AR500 not necessary if you are only using cast bullets.  We built our targets with a hole in them for bolt for hanger.  Two advantages with this method, no welding on target which will comprise surface hardness and they can be reversed each year which eliminates cupping.  Have  used ours for six years including four state shoots, no pitting or cupping.

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19 minutes ago, Jeb Stuart #65654 said:

Our club uses targets that are 3/8 AR400.  AR500 not necessary if you are only using cast bullets.  We built our targets with a hole in them for bolt for hanger.  Two advantages with this method, no welding on target which will comprise surface hardness and they can be reversed each year which eliminates cupping.  Have  used ours for six years including four state shoots, no pitting or cupping.

The price difference in 400 and 500 is negligible. 400 will bend easier and be a little less likely to crack, (not really an issue in our application). The welding thing also doesn’t really matter as welding AR 500 doesn’t significantly soften it. Hanging them with bolts does allow them to be reversed which can help to control warpage if and when it happens. 

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8 hours ago, Johnny Longpants said:

Speaking of AR500 plates, does anyone know of a place in Ohio that will sell/cut AR500 plates?

Howdy Johnny,  BigDog Steel in St.Mary's,Oh has a nice selection of all kind's of Ar500 steel.  The owner's name is Ryan and he would probably do special orders for different size plate's.  Iv'e  had good dealing's with him in the past.  You can find him online at big dog steel if you don't see what you want i believe his contact # is on the site.

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Thank you all for the great responses.   3/8ths sounds like the way to go. I love the shoot the X idea.  Now to start working on my grant writing to get target/prop money for the new club, Lincoln Area Regulators.

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 I use 1/4" AR500 exclusively and pound the snot out of it with heavy .357, .44 Special and 45 Colt loads. It's stood up fine. IMHO the only advantage to 3/8" is it's easier to find.

 

 Cholla

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5 hours ago, Deadshot Dan said:

Howdy Johnny,  BigDog Steel in St.Mary's,Oh has a nice selection of all kind's of Ar500 steel.  The owner's name is Ryan and he would probably do special orders for different size plate's.  Iv'e  had good dealing's with him in the past.  You can find him online at big dog steel if you don't see what you want i believe his contact # is on the site.

Thanks Deadshot, I have reached out to them.

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On 12/15/2018 at 5:15 AM, Major B. S. Walker said:

Stick with the 3/8. We shoot the X as we call it. Mark back of target with an X after set up. Next set up X goes in front, painted over and an a new X is painted on back.  Next set up X goes in front and painted over new X is painted on back. That way both sides are shot every other set up. Keeps the steel flat for years.

So that's why there are x's...I was wondering...

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