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12 Gauge Brass Shotshells - NEW - SOLD


wildphilhickup

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PAYMENT RECEIVED.

 

Magtech Brass Shotshell Hulls

These are ideal for traditional black powder loads. When choosing wads for brass cases, choose one gauge larger for proper fit: For example, use 11-gauge cards in a 12-gauge brass case. Magtech brass shotshells use large pistol primers.

 

7 Boxes Available.   (25 Shot Shells per box)    NEW - NEVER USED.

 

$20.00 per Box  -  Plus Shipping.   

 

Will take $155.00 for all 7 Boxes  -  Shipped CONUS via USPS Priority Mail - Insured. 

 

Loading: Try the RCBS Cowboy Brass Shotshell Die (12ga only). 

 

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/MagTech-12ga-2-1_2-empty-brass-shotshells-for-reloading/productinfo/3921270/

 

THANKS!

 

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I load all my brass shot shells with clays smokeless.I started loading black powder but did not like the mess it made in my shotgun.I love the smokeless in the the brass shells.I made a tool to prime the large pistol primers on  my mec grabber and charge the powder,Then I do the rest by hand and a dowel.The same load as I used in my plastic shell but the brass loads hit a lot harder because of the compression.Love them.

The two pieces that are the brightest are pieces I made to prime the mag tect hulls on my grabber.

IMG_2509.JPG

IMG_2510.JPG

IMG_2511.JPG

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I loaded both BP & Smokeless in brass shells for years. Developed my own routine for the  process. Once I started with the brass I never loaded plastic again.

However some have difficulty with the loading of brass shells.

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I have a box of MagTech shells that I've been hesitant to load.

The way I understand it:

1. Load Powder.

2. Load over-powder card and compress.

3. Load the cushion wad.

4. Load shot.

5. Load over-shot card and compress.

6. Now what? How does the shot stay put?

Thanks, y'all.

 

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Brazos, . . . overshot card needs to fit TIGHT in the mouth of the brass shell.  After my first attempts in which I had the over shot coming loose once in a while I purchased thicker ones and they stayed put.  Some people glue them in.  

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28 minutes ago, Brazos John said:

I have a box of MagTech shells that I've been hesitant to load.

The way I understand it:

1. Load Powder.

2. Load over-powder card and compress.

3. Load the cushion wad.

4. Load shot.

5. Load over-shot card and compress.

6. Now what? How does the shot stay put?

Thanks, y'all.

 

Did you put in a primer??

 

Texas Lizard

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Is that why all the powder fell out the little hole?

OK:

1. Seat primer.

2. Load powder...…..

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Thanks, Warden.

The more I see on reloading the brass shells, the more comfortable I'm becoming.

I think I might start with that MZ that you used.

Cleaning guns isn't my favorite chore.

Brazos

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20 minutes ago, Brazos John said:

Thanks, Warden.

The more I see on reloading the brass shells, the more comfortable I'm becoming.

I think I might start with that MZ that you used.

Cleaning guns isn't my favorite chore.

Brazos

 

Make no mistake,  you'll still have to clean the gun even when using BlackMZ or other subs.  It may not be as urgent with BlackMZ but I find it I do it sooner rather than later it's easier.  I use a bore snake depended with water to take the initial crud out and neutralize any corrosive crap. Then brush,  push paper towels through.  Then one gooped up with Thompson's Bore Butter.   Take the barrels off double and wipe down breach and water table,  etc.  Give a good coat of Bore Butter.   I tend to check the gun again in a couple of days to see if I missed any spots. 

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 . overshot card needs to fit TIGHT in the mouth of the brass shell.  After my first attempts in which I had the over shot coming loose once in a while I purchased thicker ones and they stayed put.  Some people glue them in.  

 

ps. Nothing on the package about thickness or a order no.   But put one in my dial calibers and they are .060 thick.  Work good.  :)

 

 

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Oh yeah,  brass hulls will need to be cleaned soon after they are used. I punch out the primer using this highly developed,  sophisticated tool.

 

5a8c7fc67371e_BrasshullprimerpunchFeb2018.jpg.97931ef71ad54ba17cc526aab7335c2f.jpg

 

I soak the fired hulls in water and Limshine. Let dry and then vibrate clean.

 

 

5a8c7fe27bb7e_Prime12gaugebrasshullsFeb2018.jpg.d4569f1d8625a86e8d8c6b1890b8e914.jpg

 

I prime using an RCBS 12 gauge shell holder and Lee priming die setup.

 

 

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20 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

Oh yeah,  brass hulls will need to be cleaned soon after they are used. I punch out the primer using this highly developed,  sophisticated tool.

 

5a8c7fc67371e_BrasshullprimerpunchFeb2018.jpg.97931ef71ad54ba17cc526aab7335c2f.jpg

 

I soak the fired hulls in water and Limshine. Let dry and then vibrate clean.

 

 

5a8c7fe27bb7e_Prime12gaugebrasshullsFeb2018.jpg.d4569f1d8625a86e8d8c6b1890b8e914.jpg

 

I prime using an RCBS 12 gauge shell holder and Lee priming die setup.

 

 

 

same prime set up that I have .. . . 

 

I LIKE the deprime tool  :) . . centers it in the shell . . . why haven't I thunk of that . . . .:o

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