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Lee Dies... Am I not seeing something???


Cholla

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I am loading some .38 Long Colt using a new set of Lee dies. (Just an FYI, they all have .38/357 stamped on them but the box says .38 Short/Long Colt...) The locking rings don't have set screws on them to keep them in place for future setups. Is there something I'm missing here? Why wouldn't they have rings that can lock in place? Does Lee use some super double secret way of keeping their rings in place?

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Nope, they don't have an additional locking method.  I've not really missed it in over 30 years though. 

 

I just loosen the nut while watch the top portion.  It normally doesn't move so I'm good.  If it does move a little I see how much and go from there. 

 

But since I normally have a head for each caliber, I don't have to adjust except for a different bullet.

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They use "O" rings instead. The threads are machined fairly tight & the lock rings tend to stay in place if/when dies are moved. I use their turret presses & just buy a separate turret for each caliber.

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No, they don't lock in place.   Hi-strength loctite will.   Replace lock rings with other manufacturer's parts.   I like the Hornady Sure-Loc split ring with a socket head screw....

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/dies/individual-dies-and-accessories/#!/

 

Why don't they?   Keeping cost low, I would guess.

 

Good luck, GJ

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We have a Dillon 450 set up for 38 Short Colt, Special and 357 using Lee 38 Short/Long Colt dies.  I have to adjust bell/powder die and seating die between case length anyway.   I tend to load a gazillion of one and keep reloading that case until all of another is getting on the endangered species list, then adjust the dies and stock up on that load.  Only a couple of times a year at most so no big deal. 

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2 hours ago, J Bar Binks, #47015 said:

I replace 'em with RCBS set screw lock rings. I've got quite a pile of surplus Lee rings.

Another reason that the only LEE die sets I have were given to me... of the 30+ die sets I have, I give myself ones I don't have to modify... 

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I went and did a quick count - it looks like I'm at 66 with 17 of them being Lee.

 

Plus several LoadAlls, three MEC 600 Jr's, and a homemade set for 10 gauge. ;)

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You must be missing the O-Ring on yours .

35 years of loading ammo and

I have never had a Lee Die Move on me yet .

Rooster 

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1 hour ago, Griff said:

Another reason that the only LEE die sets I have were given to me... of the 30+ die sets I have, I give myself ones I don't have to modify... 

 

While I did replace the sizing and crimping die in my .44-40 set with Redding, I have been using Lee Precision dies in 9mm, .38/.357,, .40 S&W .44 Mag, .45 Auto, .303 British and .30-'06 Springfield since the mid-'70's and they've always produced fine ammo at far less cost than all of the others.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Abilene Slim SASS 81783 said:

Cholla, what kind of press?

Lyman Orange Crusher.

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2 hours ago, Rooster Ron Wayne said:

You must be missing the O-Ring on yours .

35 years of loading ammo and

I have never had a Lee Die Move on me yet .

Rooster 

They have the O-ring. I am referring to when I remove them from the press. I prefer that the lock nuts stay exactly where I adjusted them to so when I install them in the future everything is right back the way it was. I have enough of the Split locknuts to add to this set. I just wanted to see if I was missing something. I would seem that I'm not. Thanks.

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You can remove a Lee die and maintain the adjustment by holding the die with channel locks and turning the lock nut with a 1 1/8 wrench. Turn both in sync, and there is no problem. I prefer that, because actual "lock" nuts have a habit of hiding the adjustment screw where you can't get at it. The lee is easy to adjust be loosening the die slightly and then turning the die with the nut held stationary.

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Lee dies with the Hornady rings. If there's a problem I flip the ring over and it's no problem on the tool head. Still cheaper than other makers and I don't see a difference in the ammo quality. I'm really excited about the Factory Crimp Die as well. 

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If the press will take larger dies it probably take a Hornady lock n load press bushing.  Then you can use the lock n load die bushings.  Then you will never have to adjust dies unless switching from 38/357, 40S&W/10mm.; etc.

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Cholla,

 Your problem is easily fixed.  Just order lock rings from Dillon. They have a locking set screw. You can buy them one at a time, PN 098-14067, ($1.60) or in a pkg of 5, 

PN 098-10669 ($4.95).

 

  The LEE O-ring system works great IF, you never remove the dies from the press.   However if you need to remove the dies to use a different set frequently, then they loose their adjustment and must be re-adjusted with each use.   Simply a poor design as far as  I'm concerned.      

   RBK

 

 

 

 

 

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12 hours ago, J.D. Daily said:

If the press will take larger dies it probably take a Hornady lock n load press bushing.  Then you can use the lock n load die bushings.  Then you will never have to adjust dies unless switching from 38/357, 40S&W/10mm.; etc.

Not unless the press is machined for the LNL bushings, and I don't believe anyone makes a press that will accept them (other than Hornady). The bushing uses a cam locking system which doesn't thread into the press. See link below.

 

Roscoe gave a good tip. Other options as already mentioned are the RCBS & Hornady locking rings.

 

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/277407/hornady-lock-n-load-die-bushings?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Reloading - Dies %26 Shellholders&utm_content=277407&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Reloading - Dies %26 Shellholders-_-Hornady-_-277407&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq6P1gYzr3gIV-B-tBh0gAAmVEAQYAiABEgL9gPD_BwE

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13 hours ago, J.D. Daily said:

If the press will take larger dies it probably take a Hornady lock n load press bushing.  Then you can use the lock n load die bushings.  Then you will never have to adjust dies unless switching from 38/357, 40S&W/10mm.; etc.

Forget that noise... I have separate seating and crimp dies for the different lengths. With the cost of the Lee dies, just call them up and order what you need. Then you can have all the quick change you need. Realistically I don't shoot enough .357 to make it worthwhile to progressively load. I just use the loader kit to make my 25 or fifty 125 full house loads to practice. I load the .40 for revolver also so I really need two crimps for .40 and one for 10mm. 

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6 hours ago, Abilene Slim SASS 81783 said:

Not unless the press is machined for the LNL bushings, and I don't believe anyone makes a press that will accept them (other than Hornady). The bushing uses a cam locking system which doesn't thread into the press. See link below.

 

Roscoe gave a good tip. Other options as already mentioned are the RCBS & Hornady locking rings.

 

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/277407/hornady-lock-n-load-die-bushings?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Reloading - Dies %26 Shellholders&utm_content=277407&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Reloading - Dies %26 Shellholders-_-Hornady-_-277407&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq6P1gYzr3gIV-B-tBh0gAAmVEAQYAiABEgL9gPD_BwE

I have an LnL adapter on my Lee Breech Lock single stage. That press comes with a removable bushing for standard threads. You just swap that out.

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6 hours ago, Abilene Slim SASS 81783 said:

Not unless the press is machined for the LNL bushings, and I don't believe anyone makes a press that will accept them (other than Hornady). The bushing uses a cam locking system which doesn't thread into the press. See link below.

 

Roscoe gave a good tip. Other options as already mentioned are the RCBS & Hornady locking rings.

 

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/277407/hornady-lock-n-load-die-bushings?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Reloading - Dies %26 Shellholders&utm_content=277407&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Reloading - Dies %26 Shellholders-_-Hornady-_-277407&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq6P1gYzr3gIV-B-tBh0gAAmVEAQYAiABEgL9gPD_BwE

The female press bushing threads into the press.  The part no. Is 392301. The thread size is not given.  I believe it is the same size as the RCBS 12  ga brass shotshell die.

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Quote

Per Midway description of the bushing adapter kit:

 

insert the Lock-N-Load conversion bushing into a standard press with a 1-1/4" -12 thread and you are ready to use the Lock-N-Load System. Allows you to use the Lock-N-Load technology on most brands of presses.

 

So, if you have the .50 BMG large die size (1 1/4" thread diameter) press, yes, you can get the bushing adapter that converts those 1-1/4" threads to a Lock-N-Load Bushing holder.   Seems to me a long way to go to make a LNL bushing work instead of getting better lock rings. :lol:

 

Good luck, GJ

 

 

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9 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

 

So, if you have the .50 BMG size press, yes, you can get the bushing adapter that converts those 1-1/4" threads to a Lock-N-Load Bushing holder.   Seems to me a long way to go to make a LNL bushing work instead of getting better lock rings. :lol:

 

Good luck, GJ

 

 

This is off the mark. My Lee O-frame, cast, single stage is not 50 cal, and I am using an LnL adapter on it. If one wants to use regular dies, the LnL adapter can be replaced with the included insert for regular threads. Yes, that fits in an oversized hole to allow its removal. Then there is an insert to accommodate Lee's "breech lock" bushings. This press supports an LnL AP press and an abundance of die bushings and redundant dies, so I have never had to remove the LnL adapter. I never owned any breech lock adapters until I bought the Auto Breech Lock Pro to dedicate to my SASS 38 Specials.

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Folks you all are missing the point,,, He has to change dies for each step as his press is a single stage press.... So he's wanting the dies to keep the adjustment during removal and reinstall........ Re size/Decap ,,,, Flare... Seat/Crimp and possibly Factory Crimp .....

 

Jabez Cowboy

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1 hour ago, Jabez Cowboy,SASS # 50129 said:

Folks you all are missing the point,,, He has to change dies for each step as his press is a single stage press.... So he's wanting the dies to keep the adjustment during removal and reinstall........ Re size/Decap ,,,, Flare... Seat/Crimp and possibly Factory Crimp .....

 

Jabez Cowboy

If you look into his other postings here on the wire, you'll see that he's loading on a Dillon 550B progressive press.

 

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12 hours ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

 

So, if you have the .50 BMG size press, yes, you can get the bushing adapter that converts those 1-1/4" threads to a Lock-N-Load Bushing holder.   Seems to me a long way to go to make a LNL bushing work instead of getting better lock rings. :lol:

 

Good luck, GJ

 

 

My Rockchucker has the same bushing - take it out and the threads are 1 1/4 x 12.

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40 minutes ago, Sgt. John Campbell, SASS #58165 said:

If you look into his other postings here on the wire, you'll see that he's loading on a Dillon 550B progressive press.

 

He posted in this thread that "Lyman Orange Crusher. " is the context of his question.

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3 hours ago, Roscoe Regulator said:

He posted in this thread that "Lyman Orange Crusher. " is the context of his question.

Yes. For .45 Colt I use the Dillon. For other odd jobs I use the Orange Crusher.

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On 11/24/2018 at 7:44 AM, Jabez Cowboy,SASS # 50129 said:

Folks you all are missing the point,,, He has to change dies for each step as his press is a single stage press.... So he's wanting the dies to keep the adjustment during removal and reinstall........ Re size/Decap ,,,, Flare... Seat/Crimp and possibly Factory Crimp .....

 

Jabez Cowboy

If you have a single stage press with a Lee breach-lock press bushing or Hornady Lock-N-Load press bushing you purchase a die bushing for every die you use on the single stage press.  that way you adjust them once unless you don't buy 2 sets of dies for calibers that use the same dies, 38/357, 40/10mm, 44/44M, 45C/454.  If you use a turret or progressive press buy a tool head for each caliber.  If XL650 you can buy aftermarket tool heads FUW rimmed cartridges which have a spacer that is moved from top to bottom of the toolhead.

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Drill and tap the Lee lock rings for a brass set screw, or a steel set screw with a large piece of lead shot under the tip.   Pretty cheap fix, but Loctite even cheaper and faster, too.

 

Good luck, GJ

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25 minutes ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

Drill and tap the Lee lock rings for a brass set screw, or a steel set screw with a large piece of lead shot under the tip.   Pretty cheap fix, but Loctite even cheaper and faster, too.

 

Good luck, GJ

With the deep cut in the LEE alum. ri ng for the 'O' ring.

Not enough material in the ring for a set-screw.

Here's the ones I use.

Cheaper buy the dozen-:lol:

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/870631/forster-cross-bolt-die-locking-ring-7-8-14-thread?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Reloading - Dies %26 Shellholders&utm_content=870631&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Reloading - Dies %26 Shellholders-_-Forster-_-870631&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk8mZz8vw3gIVzZyzCh3DwgqvEAQYASABEgKWHvD_BwE

 

OLG

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