Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Broken Transfer Bar?


Recommended Posts

Howdy

 

Remind me.

 

What is the most common cause of a Ruger Transfer Bar breaking? I seem to remember it has something to do with the way the T Bar contacts the frame.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are talking about a Ruger?:huh:

They break were the flat section that contacst the FP meets the side that goes down inside.

Ruger at one time many years ago had some get out that were brittle from incorrect heat treat.

Yes, I have broken a few over the years.

Ruger has always sent them free, and even sent a couple of spares. B)

The OMV and NM use different T'bars, and will not interchange.

OLG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Break off the other one and have a 'smith weld them on the lower notch of the hammers. Then do a half cock nod. Cheap forever fix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

Look up "Ruger transfer bar pinch".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, Cayuse Jack, SASS #19407 said:

Actually the OMV and NMV transfer bars will interchange but... The NMV bars are cut to allow the cylinder to free spin (backwards) and the OMV bars are not.

They have different PN's.

 Learned that when I tried to fit a OMV t-bar to my wife's:wub:NM.

They would not interchange, either way.

OLG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Red Cent said:

 

 

Look up "Ruger transfer bar pinch".

I believe this is the reason that some of the guns break transfer bars and other don't.  If the transfer bar is too thick and/or the hammer relieve is too shallow, then the transfer bar absorbs all of the energy of the hammer falling.  When fit correctly, the upper tip of the hammer should contact the frame and take the majority of the pounding.

 

After 3 broken transfer bars, all my Rugers now have SBH hammers with half cock notches and welded up noses so they no longer use transfer bars.  I kept the original hammers and have transfer bars to install if I decide to part with or repurpose the pistols.

 

Ruger will replace the broken parts for free:) but it won't be much consolation for the match you just lost 'cause your gun broke.:(

 

btw; the transfer bars I have do have an added thickness to them at the top which I now suspect is there to allow for fitting.  Didn't notice this until after it was no longer an issue for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

They have different PN's.

 Learned that when I tried to fit a OMV t-bar to my wife's:wub:NM.

They would not interchange, either way.

OLG

 

They do have different part numbers, because the NMV bar is cut for the reverse free spin and the OMV is not.

 

I guess I must have done something wrong as I used the OMV transfer bars on a couple of NMV.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Cayuse Jack, SASS #19407 said:

 

They do have different part numbers, because the NMV bar is cut for the reverse free spin and the OMV is not.

 

I guess I must have done something wrong as I used the OMV transfer bars on a couple of NMV.

 

If the cut is all they did-Why don't they list it under just one PN then?

Head scratcher......

OLG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

 

If the cut is all they did-Why don't they list it under just one PN then?

Head scratcher......

OLG

 

Dont know... 

 

The NMV bars also have a pad of steel at the top .

Seems to be there to allow the hammer to hit the firing pin harder.

 

I file the pad to exactly fit the hammer/transfer bar pad/frame so that the transfer bar on NMV does not interfere with the hammer when it it lowers into the frame after firing.

 

Makes for a smoother trigger release.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Geeze!

 

Talk about thread drift.

 

No, I don't want to weld up the hammer on a Ruger.

 

Although I have several single action Rugers, Blackhawk, Vaquero and New Vaquero I have never broken a transfer bar, I shoot Colts in CAS.

 

A guy on another forum was complaining about a Ruger transfer bar breaking, and I wanted to explain to him why it happens.

 

Yes, I do remember the term transfer bar pinch, but I cannot remember the exact definition of what happens.

 

I did a search here for Transfer Bar Pinch and did not get any answers.
 

Could somebody please explain to me exactly what happens to cause a Transfer Bar in a single action Ruger to break?

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283 said:

Geeze!

 

Talk about thread drift.

 

No, I don't want to weld up the hammer on a Ruger.

 

Although I have several single action Rugers, Blackhawk, Vaquero and New Vaquero I have never broken a transfer bar, I shoot Colts in CAS.

 

A guy on another forum was complaining about a Ruger transfer bar breaking, and I wanted to explain to him why it happens.

 

Yes, I do remember the term transfer bar pinch, but I cannot remember the exact definition of what happens.

 

I did a search here for Transfer Bar Pinch and did not get any answers.
 

Could somebody please explain to me exactly what happens to cause a Transfer Bar in a single action Ruger to break?

 

Thanks

Vibration induced metal fatigue, from the hammer impacts.

OLG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tested my revolvers and some had the pinch.  And I had experienced a transfer bar breaking on that one.  So I took off just enough on the lower hammer "level" to allow the transfer bar to drop with the hammer down and I haven't had a breakage since.

 

I went very slow and only took a very little off - it is on the hammer surface that is hitting the transfer bar - NOT the portion that is at the top of the hammer that touches the frame of the pistol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, CodyMaverick said:

I believe this is the reason that some of the guns break transfer bars and other don't.  If the transfer bar is too thick and/or the hammer relieve is too shallow, then the transfer bar absorbs all of the energy of the hammer falling.  When fit correctly, the upper tip of the hammer should contact the frame and take the majority of the pounding.

 

After 3 broken transfer bars, all my Rugers now have SBH hammers with half cock notches and welded up noses so they no longer use transfer bars.  I kept the original hammers and have transfer bars to install if I decide to part with or repurpose the pistols.

 

Ruger will replace the broken parts for free:) but it won't be much consolation for the match you just lost 'cause your gun broke.:(

 

btw; the transfer bars I have do have an added thickness to them at the top which I now suspect is there to allow for fitting.  Didn't notice this until after it was no longer an issue for me.

What he said.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I just broke a transfer bar on one of my SASS Vaqueros dry fire practicing. Thanks all for the posts on transfer bar pinch.  I own two other sets of SASS Vaqueros and I will definitely check them for pinch.  I dry fire these guns a lot.  Ruger is sending me another transfer bar but I ordered some more from Midway because I won't see the Ruger one for ten days.  Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎11‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 2:26 PM, Red Cent said:

Break off the other one and have a 'smith weld them on the lower notch of the hammers. Then do a half cock nod. Cheap forever fix.

….and have a smoother gun and never break another. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Captain Black Hand said:

I just broke a transfer bar on one of my SASS Vaqueros dry fire practicing. Thanks all for the posts on transfer bar pinch.  I own two other sets of SASS Vaqueros and I will definitely check them for pinch.  I dry fire these guns a lot.  Ruger is sending me another transfer bar but I ordered some more from Midway because I won't see the Ruger one for ten days.  Thanks again.

 

Snap Caps  $$$ well spent. ;)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

Please expound on this........:huh:

OLG

A couple years ago, I received two brand new New Vaqueros from the distributor to my gun shop, opened the boxes and the transfer bars were broke. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Boggus Deal #64218 said:

A couple years ago, I received two brand new New Vaqueros from the distributor to my gun shop, opened the boxes and the transfer bars were broke. 

 

They must've been 'played' with prior to you receiving them. 

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Gunner Gatlin, SASS # 10274 said:

 

They must've been 'played' prior to you receiving them. 

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

If they were, you couldn’t tell it. They were, at the time, recent production, in the plastic wrap and looked like dozens of other new ones I’d unwrapped.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Boggus Deal #64218 said:

If they were, you couldn’t tell it. They were, at the time, recent production, in the plastic wrap and looked like dozens of other new ones I’d unwrapped.

 

Interesting. 

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Gunner Gatlin, SASS # 10274 said:

 

Interesting. 

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

My guess is bad heat treat and/or fit and the test firing broke them. This was a couple years ago when broken transfer bars were seemingly popping up everywhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Boggus Deal #64218 said:

My guess is bad heat treat and/or fit and the test firing broke them. This was a couple years ago when broken transfer bars were seemingly popping up everywhere.

 

I guess. 

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.